Millett Problems
Mar 31, 2006 at 3:14 PM Post #16 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by jl123
Is it me or do those resistors on the bottom of the tube sockets look like they're touching something they shouldn't...?


I agree.... even if the resistor leads are not touching one of the other tube sockets now, it may when it gets cased up. If it were me, I would put some sleeving on the leads- either heat shrink or the sleeve from some insulated wire. The wire is laying next to (or touching) pin 1, which is the grid. Putting 12V on the grid is not a good idea....
 
Apr 13, 2006 at 7:38 PM Post #19 of 31
Update time: Got a new wallwart from Mouser, and checked all the soldering on the board. Plugged everything in, tubes start to heat up everything looks good. However, there are a few problems. When I turn the ALPS up, I get an annoying poppy static noise. Im going to try and add the ground lead and see if that helps matters. Also, whenevev I play music, it sounds like there are some issues with one of the sound channels. Im not sure of the exact way to describe it, but the music sounds like its missing a channel and sounds really thin. I'm going to check the input grounds, but other than that I'm not really sure what else to look at. All the voltages and resistor values on both channels look good. Any suggestions?
 
Apr 13, 2006 at 8:36 PM Post #20 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by xSolsticex
Update time: Got a new wallwart from Mouser, and checked all the soldering on the board. Plugged everything in, tubes start to heat up everything looks good. However, there are a few problems. When I turn the ALPS up, I get an annoying poppy static noise. Im going to try and add the ground lead and see if that helps matters. Also, whenevev I play music, it sounds like there are some issues with one of the sound channels. Im not sure of the exact way to describe it, but the music sounds like its missing a channel and sounds really thin. I'm going to check the input grounds, but other than that I'm not really sure what else to look at. All the voltages and resistor values on both channels look good. Any suggestions?


If you mis-wire either the input RCA jacks or the output jack, you can get sound - but it will sound funny. For RCA jacks, the outer part of the jack is ground - make sure it's connected to the ground, and the pins are the left and right channels. For the output jack, the tip is left channel, the ring is the right channel, and the sleeve (closest to the part of the jack you hold on to) is ground.
 
Apr 14, 2006 at 12:04 AM Post #21 of 31
Yeah, I'd have to say that it is a miswiring issue on the jacks. If they are indeed wired correctly (after quadruple checking of course
icon10.gif
), however, I encountered an issue where the ground pads for the input and output jacks didn't seem to be continuous sp?. I had checked for continuity between the ground pads for in/output and the various ground pads scattered around the board, and they weren't connected. I'd check for continuity between the ground lugs on the jacks, and one of the ground pads on the board. It worked for me, so maybe...
 
Apr 23, 2006 at 10:43 PM Post #23 of 31
xSolsticex,
Please check some of the announcements on the Millett forum. The new boards have some mistakes in the connector pads. For instance, the ground on the output connector is not connected to the circuit ground. The official fix is that jumpers to a known ground are needed to complete the circuit at the output pads.

I'm afraid this probably would cause the symptoms you describe. Nate has promised updated documentation, but in the meantime, get out your meter and confirm all the ground connections. Use a jumper where needed.
 
Apr 24, 2006 at 12:36 AM Post #24 of 31
Well, I changed the grounds to the aux grounds and it now works great. Many thanks to tomb and everyone else who helped.

One more thing: Anyone know where I can order extra Hammond End caps/screws?
 
Apr 24, 2006 at 3:34 AM Post #26 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb
xSolsticex,
Please check some of the announcements on the Millett forum. The new boards have some mistakes in the connector pads. For instance, the ground on the output connector is not connected to the circuit ground. The official fix is that jumpers to a known ground are needed to complete the circuit at the output pads.

I'm afraid this probably would cause the symptoms you describe. Nate has promised updated documentation, but in the meantime, get out your meter and confirm all the ground connections. Use a jumper where needed.




I threw together a temporary image of the fixes and enhancements to the new board rev here, in case anyone is still muddling through this.
 
Apr 24, 2006 at 3:35 AM Post #27 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by xSolsticex
One more thing: Anyone know where I can order extra Hammond End caps/screws?



What, specifically are you looking for? Replacement panels? Upgraded screws or replacements for the self tapping screws that come with the case?
 
Apr 24, 2006 at 12:53 PM Post #29 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by xSolsticex
Well, I changed the grounds to the aux grounds and it now works great. Many thanks to tomb and everyone else who helped.

One more thing: Anyone know where I can order extra Hammond End caps/screws?



You are welcome, but proper credit should be given to NeilR - he is the one that discovered the problem with the new boards. (I just read well.
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)

So glad to hear it now works, though!
 
Apr 24, 2006 at 2:25 PM Post #30 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by xSolsticex
The standard screws would be fine although upgraded ones would be nice as well.



I've ordered buttonhead and socket head screws from www.fastener-express.com. I think you can also get them from www.mcmaster.com. They are 6-32 screws. I use 1/2" length. You have to tap the case for this size screw. I've never replaced the supplied self tapping screws. Check the data sheet and Hammonds replacement part list- it may specify the self tapping screw size.

If you want black socket head screws, fastener-express carries them but they are not marked "black" on their site- email them for the stock#.
 

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