Millett Problems
Mar 29, 2006 at 5:08 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 31

xSolsticex

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Hi there. I just got my Millett board yesterday, and I spent last night soldering all of the parts to the board. When I went to power up, nothing happens. No LEDS, no voltage from the TREAD, nothing. Tried soldering the input/output in to see if that was the problem but it wasnt. My wallwart to the TREAD is the Xicon 24VAC 300mA unit available on Mouser. Here are some pics



Note that on one of the LED tubes, I had to use a cheapo 1k resistor because I was short one RN60. Any ideas as to where I went wrong?
 
Mar 29, 2006 at 5:31 PM Post #2 of 31

amb

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Quote:

Originally Posted by xSolsticex
no voltage from the TREAD


Did you use the correct tabs on the power jack? Since there is no voltage from the TREAD that's where the problem is...
 
Mar 29, 2006 at 5:39 PM Post #3 of 31

sbelyo

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It's definitely a power problem in nature.

1. Have you ever tested the TREAD by itself to see if it outputs voltage? If the tread is disconnected from the amp and the transformer is plugged in with the TREAD turned on, you should be seeing some voltage. If you don't the problem is with your TREAD. 27 Volts DC is the Max I would run at. Get the TREAD working with 24 - 27 Volts DC

2. If the TREAD is fine, then it's in the power section of the amp. That amp has reverse voltage protection as well as voltage overload protection. This means that if the TREAD is hooked up backwards it will not power up. This also means that if you are forcing more than (I think 30V DC) it will not power up.

3. The Voltage protection Diode will need to be in the right direction also. If that's wrong it wont power up. From the picture it looks like it's in right. (I'm not certain)
 
Mar 29, 2006 at 6:00 PM Post #4 of 31

xSolsticex

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Double checked the jack, it is oriented correctly.

When I built the TREAD, I was able to get it powered up and had it configured to 24V output. Im going to go and recheck the TREAD just to make sure nothing happened. I have the V+ wire from the TREAD into the top hole of the power section (V+ on board) and the V- wire into the bottom hole (GROUND on board).

Also, the VPD is oriented correctly.
 
Mar 29, 2006 at 8:40 PM Post #5 of 31

seanohue

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I second a double checking. My kobiconn jack had the inner most one as power but the outmost one was the ground, not the next one out from the inner.
 
Mar 29, 2006 at 9:48 PM Post #6 of 31

n_maher

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Your power jack is wired wrong as far as I can see. Please measure the DC voltage at the jack to make sure that it's set up correctly. My bet is that you have the wrong tab of the switched part of the jack used. You probably measured that these two attachment points were connected and assumed that you could use either one but once you plug the wallwart in it disconnects these two tabs, hencing the switching part
smily_headphones1.gif
.

Report back after you've checked the jack.

Nate
 
Mar 29, 2006 at 11:56 PM Post #7 of 31

xSolsticex

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OK, I took the jack out of the loop and tested it plugged into the wallwart. Tried every position, and I got absolutely nothing at all positions. Tried the wallwart in a different outlet and I got the same results. This leads me to believe that either the wallwart is bad or the jack went bad. I tried measuring AC volt output from the wallwart but I get 0's all around. Time for a new wallwart/jack?
 
Mar 29, 2006 at 11:58 PM Post #8 of 31

tomb

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Hey guys - sorry to digress a bit, but how is that TREAD supply for the Millet compared to a full-blown STEPS? I've got a board coming, but haven't ordered any parts yet. I had actually planned on a STEPS, but does the TREAD work just as well for the Millet on a $5 24V AC-AC walwart (linear, but unregulated)?

Perhaps using the STEPS is something in that extra 1% category, or is the difference noticeable?

EDIT: didn't see xSolsticex's latest post. Maybe that answers the question of a $5 walwart vs. a STEPS, or does it?
 
Mar 30, 2006 at 2:01 AM Post #9 of 31

sbelyo

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To notice the difference you'll need a source and cans of really good quality. But with the TREAD you can have the transformer far away from the amp. So it comes down to about $40 extra for the steps, but if you're using an ipod or something other than a $250 source I don't think you'd hear it
 
Mar 30, 2006 at 3:56 AM Post #11 of 31

n_maher

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Quote:

Originally Posted by xSolsticex
OK, I took the jack out of the loop and tested it plugged into the wallwart. Tried every position, and I got absolutely nothing at all positions. Tried the wallwart in a different outlet and I got the same results. This leads me to believe that either the wallwart is bad or the jack went bad. I tried measuring AC volt output from the wallwart but I get 0's all around. Time for a new wallwart/jack?


Just so I make sure I'm understanding things correctly, when you plug the wallwart into the outlet and measure with one probe in the center pin and one touching the body of the plug and measure AC or DC (depending on what your wallwart is supposed to output) you get 0V?

1. Measuring AC on the output of a AC/DC wallwart might yield 0V depending on the sensitivity of your meter.

2. If you get 0V DC and your wallwart is supposed to be putting out "X" V DC your wallwart is probably cooked. This might be the result of something like a short or other traumatic experience.

3. If you get 0V AC and your wallwart is supposed to be putting out "X" V AC see #2
smily_headphones1.gif
.

It's unlikely that the jack went bad but not impossible, so start with the wall wart, then make sure you understand how the jack works and measure the power that is supposed to be going to the TREAD. If you get that far report back and let us know where you're at.

Nate
 
Mar 30, 2006 at 4:16 AM Post #12 of 31

xSolsticex

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Well, going by that description, sounds like the wallwart has bitten the dust. Good thing Mouser got the 500mA wallwart back in stock, and I now have an excuse to get Diamond buffer parts as well. Good times all around
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Mar 30, 2006 at 4:21 AM Post #13 of 31

n_maher

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Quote:

Originally Posted by xSolsticex
Well, going by that description, sounds like the wallwart has bitten the dust.


It may be of some importance to find out why the wallwart bit the dust unless you like blowing them up and want to risk another one. I'd take a hard look at all of the connections that you made, solder joints, possible locations for a short and so on before plugging in the next one.

Best of luck,

Nate
 
Mar 31, 2006 at 12:19 PM Post #15 of 31

dmunky

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I was having the exact same problem yesterday and the day before that. No power at all. Then I was reading through this thread and decided to give it one more go after reading seanohue's suggestion to just give it another go at the jack. And it suddenly hit me that I was wiring the kobiconn jack wrong. It just seems counterintuitive (or maybe it's just lack of experience in doing these things). But after many hours of labor, a new Millet is born. Now to take care of biasing and tweaking. Thanks guys.
 

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