"Millett Hybrid" redux: NuHybrid headphone amp, using the Korg Nutube
Apr 10, 2018 at 1:11 PM Post #259 of 507
I would think that these types of switching power supplies would be noisy compared to the wallwart. Perhaps someone can recommend a good linear power supply that puts out 24v that would be a suitable wallwart replacement?

I have both the wallwart and the desktop one. Mouser was cool enough to send the desktop one free as they couldn't update the order in time.

Any ways, both are switching power supplies. I'll return them as I did find a linear 24v @ 1.2A one off of eBay.
 
Apr 10, 2018 at 1:55 PM Post #260 of 507
I've been reading the thread and seen some awesome builds.

Aside from the Burson opamps and Sonicap bypass caps, any other tweaks/upgrades people have made? I dunno about the opamps but the Sonicap seems an inexpensive one to do up front.

George
 
Apr 15, 2018 at 10:01 PM Post #262 of 507
What is everyone doing for microphonics? I think I got my background noise issues under control but I find the microphonics of the to be a problem. I saw one post where there was an involved suspension system being used but that seems like overkill. I really like the sound but am a bit disappointed with the ringing I get whenever the cable more or when someone sneezes.
 
Apr 16, 2018 at 3:00 AM Post #263 of 507
What is everyone doing for microphonics? I think I got my background noise issues under control but I find the microphonics of the to be a problem. I saw one post where there was an involved suspension system being used but that seems like overkill. I really like the sound but am a bit disappointed with the ringing I get whenever the cable more or when someone sneezes.
Did you build a case for it? I've got speaker spikes on mine. I don't hear any microphonics after the initial "Ping!" when flipping the On switch. Have you read the suggestions from Korg about keeping the Nu-tube as mute as possible? They suggest putting a metal plate on top of it.
 
Apr 16, 2018 at 9:27 PM Post #264 of 507
I had thought about putting a thicker piece of glass on it so that I could see the glow. Saw a piece of flint glass, optical plate, on eBay that was of the proper dimensions but I'll be putting this into an enclosure and won't be able to see the tube anyways and I'll put something else on it. And, as that was a piece of optical glass, it was pricey for what it was.

Another option might be one of those prisms from an education place as they'll be cheaper and you'll still see some tube glow if that's your thing.

Could possibly go to a window place and see if they have any scrap that's about the size. Window glass is leaded and is quite possibly weighs more than what I found on eBay. Then use a thin film of clear silicone to adhere it to the NuTube.
 
Apr 18, 2018 at 10:53 AM Post #265 of 507
Did you build a case for it? I've got speaker spikes on mine. I don't hear any microphonics after the initial "Ping!" when flipping the On switch. Have you read the suggestions from Korg about keeping the Nu-tube as mute as possible? They suggest putting a metal plate on top of it.

I am using the stock half enclosure on the BOM but will look into a case.

Another question I have is about setting the bias. I am using fairly sensitive (23 Ω) headphones at work currently, and am wondering if there is a suggested bias voltage below 11V. I have it set to 8V currently and still can't turn my volume past 1/4. Would going even lower possibly be beneficial?
 
Apr 18, 2018 at 12:00 PM Post #266 of 507
I am using the stock half enclosure on the BOM but will look into a case.

Another question I have is about setting the bias. I am using fairly sensitive (23 Ω) headphones at work currently, and am wondering if there is a suggested bias voltage below 11V. I have it set to 8V currently and still can't turn my volume past 1/4. Would going even lower possibly be beneficial?
Changing the bias only has a small effect on the gain - it primarily changes the makeup of the distortion. If you go lower you will increase the distortion. There is no easy way to lower the gain of the amp... the best thing may just be to attenuate the inputs.

Pete
 
Apr 30, 2018 at 10:29 AM Post #267 of 507
Hi !!!. I'm trying to deside how to build this amp !!! (cause i'm going to build it !!!) . In every photo i saw , the original enclosure is without the top. My question is : Is there (somewhere!!!) the upper part of the original enclosure or there isnt any ???
I ask this cause if it is an open construction (!!!) , i 'll have to choose an another enclosure (any proposition ???, i've noticed a hammond in previous posts) to fit it.
Second , the original pot is 10k. If i choose the alps RK27 - 100k there will be any problem?? I'm asking cause of the fisrt question, maybe i decide to go to a panel mount solution (pot, power connection , rca inputs etc).

Guys thanks in advance !!!
 
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May 6, 2018 at 7:33 AM Post #268 of 507
Hi !!!. I'm trying to deside how to build this amp !!! (cause i'm going to build it !!!) . In every photo i saw , the original enclosure is without the top. My question is : Is there (somewhere!!!) the upper part of the original enclosure or there isnt any ???
I ask this cause if it is an open construction (!!!) , i 'll have to choose an another enclosure (any proposition ???, i've noticed a hammond in previous posts) to fit it.
Second , the original pot is 10k. If i choose the alps RK27 - 100k there will be any problem?? I'm asking cause of the fisrt question, maybe i decide to go to a panel mount solution (pot, power connection , rca inputs etc).

Guys thanks in advance !!!
The upper part of that case cannot be used - I just used the lower part as sort of a pedestal. Lots of people put this into another enclosure, and connect the rear panel connectors - and sometimes also the front ones and pot - with wires.

A 100k pot is fie.

Pete
 

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