Material experts: cured 100% silicone caulk safe for extended skin contact?
Jan 12, 2010 at 1:06 AM Post #16 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Plus the cost of professional impressions. I remember seeing threads on DIY impression kits, but I think it's worth getting it done professionally.


Basically the same approch as a " Professional" without the " Professional" cost.
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Jan 12, 2010 at 1:18 AM Post #18 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by Guidostrunk /img/forum/go_quote.gif
use some clear rubber air line instead of a straw, might stretch better on the iem and its rigid enough to stay perfectly stait for which you intend to be using it for. home depot or lowes by the brass fittings
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im gonna put this thread in my favs on my comp. just to keep tabs on it.



Oh no, no, no... you misunderstand my intentions of the straw
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... although I like where you're going with this idea. I might think about that, as well.

My thought was to actually place the ear-side half of the IEM body inside the silicone as it's curing (à la ACS sleeves). The IEM will be tightly wrapped with teflon tape in order to keep the silicone from bonding to the body. However, since teflon tape is extremely thin, it won't add any significant thickness to the IEM body and sound tube. This will allow the shape of the sound tube (including the lip which helps keep tips secure) to be included in the final sleeve impression, which will help keep the IEM secure when the sleeve is put on. The straw would just be used in the curing process to serve as extension of the sound tube down into the ear canal, but it would be removed after the sleeve has cured, leaving an open sound tube in the silicone beginning at the IEM sound tube, and ending at the end of the impression's length.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 1:19 AM Post #19 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by Guidostrunk /img/forum/go_quote.gif
BTW, silicon will not stick to waxy products.


Precisely.
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I don't want to give too much away (gotta leave some anticipation for the DIY guide, after all!), but I'm going to use the wax twice in the process. First, to dip the impressions themselves, so that the silicone molds won't stick to them, allowing me to remove the impressions from the cured molds without damaging them. Second, to line the inside of the mold, so that the silicone sleeves won't stick to the silicone molds, allowing me to remove them without damage, as well.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 1:25 AM Post #20 of 31
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Darn embed didnt work. Heres the URL to watch it on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VXvozcmktNY
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 4:29 AM Post #21 of 31
Okay, just got off the phone with my friend. She can fit me in for an impression sitting tomorrow morning, which means that I'll also make the positive molds tomorrow and start on the DIY guide.

Stay tuned!
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Jan 12, 2010 at 12:52 PM Post #23 of 31
wow, this is brilliant.

Here is a little write-up on caulk toxicity:

The Environmentally Responsible Construction and Renovation Handbook - Appendix A.11 Sealants and Caulks - Real Property - PWGSC

The gist of it is that you should read the label before you buy. Some caulks have added nastys and others will not. But looks like the basic ingredients of silicone caulk are silicone and vinegar.

Here is a non-toxic one by AFMsafecoat: AFM Safecoat

One thought on your process, all that wax dipping seems like it will cause too much variation in the size of things. I would go with something liquid - maybe wd40 - to coat for non-stickiness.

Looking forward to seeing the results.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 1:44 PM Post #24 of 31
wow this is awesome, I will be keeping an eye on it
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 2:25 PM Post #25 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by LeftyGorilla /img/forum/go_quote.gif
wow, this is brilliant.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Gatto /img/forum/go_quote.gif
wow this is awesome, I will be keeping an eye on it


Thanks!
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Quote:

Originally Posted by LeftyGorilla /img/forum/go_quote.gif
One thought on your process, all that wax dipping seems like it will cause too much variation in the size of things. I would go with something liquid - maybe wd40 - to coat for non-stickiness.


Hmmm, that's a good point. I'd be worried about the chemicals, though. During the curing process, the silicone will release acetic acid. I don't know how this would react with something like WD-40.

I wonder if I could simply use a coat of Vaseline, or a similar substance...
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 2:46 PM Post #27 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Maybe a spray vegetable oil like PAM


Oh snap. I think you might be on to something there...
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 7:06 PM Post #29 of 31
A suggestion: if you wear a watch, smear some of the silicone on the back of your watch and wear it like that for a few days. The skin on your arm is thicker than in your ear, so you need more exposure to get an idea of what it might turn out to be like when you shove it in your ear.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 7:31 PM Post #30 of 31
Quote:

Originally Posted by ericj /img/forum/go_quote.gif
A suggestion: if you wear a watch, smear some of the silicone on the back of your watch and wear it like that for a few days. The skin on your arm is thicker than in your ear, so you need more exposure to get an idea of what it might turn out to be like when you shove it in your ear.


Wow, this is a fantastic idea! I'll do it tonight while I'm making the molds. I'm going to let the molds cure for a couple of days, so I can get an idea about my skin's reaction to the silicone before I make the sleeves themselves.
 

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