This would be super interesting. My hypothesis is that that the wifi extender in many cases will be enough for isolation, unless there’s a heavy amount of noise entering line from nearby equipment / electronics.Interesting, cheers. Yes fiber ethernet. Would power conditioning (something I'm contemplating generally) and/or linear power supplies fully address your concern here, or is noise riding the ethernet cable on the output of thd receiving fibre convertor a concern too?
Alternatively appreciate there's galvanic isolation alternatives like the wifi extender you mention and the Delock insulator, little passive in line boxes between two ethernet cables.
Fibre ethernet convertors are so cheap I figured I'd give them a go, let my ears be the judge.
Edit - I think I might have to try all three, potentially in combination, and/or in different parts of the chain. E.g.
- fibre ethernet convertor between cable model and router - has the benefit of protecting from lightning strikes, surges (yes I have fibre to the house as well, just have too sweet a deal with cable broadband to move anytime soon)
- Wifi extender alone (i.e. ethernet > streamer etc) / or + Delock before DAC/streamer
- DeLock alone - various places
- Fibre ethernet converter after router before streamer (alone) / or + Delock
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Master Clock Talk
- Thread starter colonelkernel8
- Start date
sajunky
Headphoneus Supremus
Yes. Multi-mode fiber is little better. Some audiophiles claim that single mode is better (more expensive, so must be better - lol). I have to fight with such approach every time...You have a point if we decide to use Single Mod fiber (8-10µm/125 for long distance. These Single Mod fiber transfer are using Laser diodes. It is a much better idea to use Multimode 50µm/125 that are using Led's with much lower amount of energy used. We have to careful to chose a good and silent Power Supply for the "Jump equipment", so we not induce noise while powering the fiber electronics.
/Jan
A real difference is that single mode beam is fed straight to the receiver (it is why a name - from a single beam), a light never bounce on the internal wall, in result lower losses of energy. In a multimode fiber, feeder is a larger diameter, emitted beam is bouncing the wall under various angles (every time losing portion of energy) and multiple reflection streams do not arrive coherent. Therefore whether it is coherent laser emitter or the ordinary diode doesn't matter, at the receiver light is not coherent.
So in a multimode fiber cheaper non-laser diodes can be used, but it doesn't say anything about lower power. A maximum distance is restricted by many factors. In both cases it is a pulse modulation with two energy levels (on or off), this variable load goes through power supply, as wrote before.
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LOL! I bought single mode only because on paper the “performance” was better. Never thought about this laser diode thingYes. Multi-mode fiber is little better. Some audiophiles claim that single mode is better (more expensive, so must be better - lol). I have to fight with such approach every time...
A real difference is that single mode beam is fed straight to the receiver (it is why a name - from a single beam), a light never bounce on the internal wall, in result lower losses of energy. In a multimode fiber, feeder is a larger diameter, emitted beam is bouncing the wall under various angles (every time losing portion of energy) and multiple reflection streams not arrive coherent. Therefore whether it is coherent laser emitter or the ordinary diode doesn't matter, at the receiver light is not coherent.
So in a multimode fiber cheaper non-laser diodes can be used, but it doesn't say anything about lower power. A maximum distance is restricted by many factors. In both cases it is a pulse modulation with two energy levels (on or off), this variable load goes through power supply.
I found it(single mode) not to perform better than ethernet but different. Ethernet somehow is more crispy in the sound, maybe because of distortion. It sounded better. The fiber was smoother like it took not only away the crisp/distortion but rounded of the highs/treble. Maybe placebo, but I am using baaske mi1005 on ethernet
kvad
100+ Head-Fier
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I've tried chinese rg400 from Ali and it was quite harsh even after couple of weeks. So decided to make my own cable. I've bought huber suchner eacon 4c and amphenol bnc plugs with berillium copper. It's 10minutes after i connected it and all i can say, I won't go back to rg400 anymore. Will see how it'll sound after burnin. 1m cable is something about 50eu and bnc plugs 20eu each. I see that ock-1 is really picky about power cable as well. Thought for clock it shouldn't matter, but boy i was wrong. So with the bmc cable i just tried to find good copper silver plated cable and guess this one worked out very well.
So what I want to say: just try to find bulk cables from respectable companies and try to make it yourself.
Do you mind sharing which Ampenol plugs you got? Found 4 different options for 50ohm with the berillium copper. I suppose the 'extreme exposure' versions aren't needed, so then it's an RG-58 and an RG-174 version left (I'm completely clueless what is behind these numbers).
@JaMo if I buy the ock-2 I should choose one configuration right? Like 75Ohm.
But at later I can switch to 50Ohms if I want right?
But what about the physical/connecter. 50 and 75 is not the same
But at later I can switch to 50Ohms if I want right?
But what about the physical/connecter. 50 and 75 is not the same
JaMo
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Thanks. Next question is connectors(50/75) are soldered to the board. How will it be possible?
Or did they make them easy removable?
JaMo
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You/we are not supposed to change the connectors. The connectors chosen are good for both 50 and 75 Ohms, similar to Cybershaft's configuration. The only thing You/we do is to open the bottom lid with a 2 mm Allen key and put the dip switch for the specific out put to the impedance value of choice.Thanks. Next question is connectors(50/75) are soldered to the board. How will it be possible?
Or did they make them easy removable?
/Jan
Awesome. Thanks!You/we are not supposed to change the connectors. The connectors chosen are good for both 50 and 75 Ohms, similar to Cybershaft's configuration. The only thing You/we do is to open the bottom lid with a 2 mm Allen key and put the dip switch for the specific out put to the impedance value of choice.
/Jan
Does OCK-2 come with the setting at 50?You/we are not supposed to change the connectors. The connectors chosen are good for both 50 and 75 Ohms, similar to Cybershaft's configuration. The only thing You/we do is to open the bottom lid with a 2 mm Allen key and put the dip switch for the specific out put to the impedance value of choice.
/Jan
JaMo
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Yes, as default, but You can request to get it set to what You like from Alvin.Does OCK-2 come with the setting at 50?
/Jan
PeterCraig
100+ Head-Fier
Burning in OCK-2 from Aliexpress seller.
Looking very impressive next to my Morion. Fit and finish are very nice.
Looking very impressive next to my Morion. Fit and finish are very nice.
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PeterCraig
100+ Head-Fier
And with LPS for the complete comparison.
gimmeheadroom
Headphoneus Supremus
It feels like you have too much space available. Sorry, it had to be said
And with LPS for the complete comparison.
PeterCraig
100+ Head-Fier
It feels like you have too much space available. Sorry, it had to be said
Even though the shootout comparison is a long way away I made the room to make it easy. Won't be until Feb unfortunately. I'll be away but the system will be up burning in clock and various cables.
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