Thanks guys.
I ordered the two models.
I ordered the two models.
I was talking to an electrical engineer that used to work for a company that did the audio, video and lightning for Broadway shows.Always the same: try it.
I use a fake load on my clock (Afterdark) . Does not seem detrimental. And a simple cap on the unused input of the dac (he7 mkii). No fake load on the unused out of the di20he is my preference.
No-pin (unterminated) cap is recommended by engineers, if you find it beneficial, it cost very little and doesn't hurt.I was talking to an electrical engineer that used to work for a company that did the audio, video and lightning for Broadway shows.
Probably already a given at this point but never hurts to reconfirm.
He was telling me it absolutely is better to use a dummy load in my application where the master clock has all outputs active all the time. He said its hard to say if will offer much, if any improvement in audio but for electronics, its definitely better for the device as it mitigates reflections.
No harm to try, may not work for everyone though.I was talking to an electrical engineer that used to work for a company that did the audio, video and lightning for Broadway shows.
Probably already a given at this point but never hurts to reconfirm.
He was telling me it absolutely is better to use a dummy load in my application where the master clock has all outputs active all the time. He said its hard to say if will offer much, if any improvement in audio but for electronics, its definitely better for the device as it mitigates reflections.
No need for dummy loads on the Mutec Ref 10 I guess, as outputs can be individually shut off.No harm to try, may not work for everyone though.
For my system, the dummy load on clock reduces transparency.
Correct!No need for dummy loads on the Mutec Ref 10 I guess, as outputs can be individually shut off.
I am also curious about this as Im ordering the Purple for my powerstrip.And I've got 3 of them as well(power amp, U18 and X26P). But I'll wait for some posts from those who have gone the upgraded fuse route for their impressions of an OCK 1 or 2 with a fuse more costly than the stock fuse which is a not a basic bottom of the barrel fuse before I go in that direction. So far I've not seen a post anywhere on any forum from someone who has gone with an aftermarket fuse in either OCK.
I have upgraded both Cybershaft LPS and Farad Super 3 (What I’m using now with my clock) the effect was not subtle ... I would do the Purple or Master SR fuse ... There is also this mineral oil fuse from Aucharm (Around $60) that should be a perfect upgrade (price-wise) for the OCK-2...I am also curious about this as Im ordering the Purple for my powerstrip.
I asked Beatechnik about the spec and got this reply:
The fuse for the OCK-2 is 1A, 5x20mm, Slow Blow
Im gonna order one, within one month, but would still like to hear impressions if some of you upgraded the fuse on OCK2
I also bought my ock-2 from them.Not that seller but I can vouch for these guys - gzbotolave store - got the OCK-2 and SW-8 from them which have been excellent additions to my system, though it looks like their shipping prices have increased a bit.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004976490504.html
me tooI also bought my ock-2 from them.
Bought my sw8 hereAny of you have experience with this seller of the LHY clocks on Ali?
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804852958238.html?gatewayAdapt=gloMsite2usaPcglo2usa4itemAdapt
They don't have a great rating (88%), but price difference is $200 less than Beatechnik.