For the tweakers amongst you all, I've made a few mods to my OCK-1 that have all been worthwhile -
#1 - Changed the feet to improve mechanical isolation. I used Audio Serenity ISO-9H and have use these before with good results. Link -
Audio Serenity ISO-9h
#2 - Fabricated an aluminum RF shield to go between the transformer and incoming AC and the DC & clock stages. The OCK-2 has this kind of isolation. There's a photo of this below. It's attached to the chassis using a vacant hole.
#3 - Changed the main PSU caps from 1000uF to 2200uF Panasonic FC and the two 100uF OSCON style caps on the regulator output to 1000uF.
Was it all worthwhile?
#1 - absolutely, especially as it was an easy mod.
#2 - again, yes, if you're able to fabricate the divider plate.
#1 & #2 positively reinforce the "OCK-1" sound that JaMo so accurately described in his review. Less grain and more clarity in the top end, notably better imaging and perhaps a bit more bass.
#3 - yes, also worthwhile if you're handy with a desoldering tool and soldering iron. This mod changed the sound somewhat to be closer to the OCK-2 sound that JaMo described - the bass leaned out and tightened up a bit (not in a bad way) and the sound signature moved a bit away from the organic end of the spectrums to slightly more analytical. This mod probably hasn't settled down yet though as the caps only have a few days time on them so far. My experience with recapping devices where the caps are at relatively low voltages is that they take a bit longer to settle down. I may change the Panasonic FC caps to my preferred Nichicon KA series, but I had the Panasonics on hand so I went with that as a first step.
I suspect that I may have invalidated my warranty too
Like a few of you here, I started the 10Mhz clock journey with a Morion clock and linear PSU. It's been a hugely satisfying upgrade to get the OCK-1 and it's a massive bargain given that the Morion is now selling for about the same price as the OCK-1, and that's before adding a decent PSU.