Can you post the link of that 10K stepped attenuator with the Vishay resistors?? I looked and could not find it.
Also, if you could share more pictures of the project if you have then would be appreciated!
Objectively, near perfect channel balance and no more scratchy pot.
Subjectively, to give this amp micro dynamics. It simply has none, it’s so flat. That’s why lots of people call it lifeless. I’m attempting additional mods for its fatiguing sound as well.
For me the scratchy pot is the big issue. I was considering a volume relay board controller by a small potentiometer that would replace the original one. I believe there could be space if mounted upside down. But the recommended pot above seems a more sensible solution.
Objectively, near perfect channel balance and no more scratchy pot.
Subjectively, to give this amp micro dynamics. It simply has none, it’s so flat. That’s why lots of people call it lifeless. I’m attempting additional mods for its fatiguing sound as well.
The THX circuitry and 'feed-forward topology' are culprits to the flat, lifeless sound. Perhaps, the use of an iFi Power Elite (24v) - or similar device - will help expand the dynamics. Good luck!
The THX circuitry and 'feed-forward topology' are culprits to the flat, lifeless sound. Perhaps, the use of an iFi Power Elite (24v) - or similar device - will help expand the dynamics. Good luck!
I already use a cheap Jameco linear PSU, and it does indeed help. I also noticed that there are two missing capacitors at 24V input that could be added in. They appear to be smoothing caps.
I already use a cheap Jameco linear PSU, and it does indeed help. I also noticed that there are two missing capacitors at 24V input that could be added in. They appear to be smoothing caps.
Question is, what caps would those be. It seems they were thinking of a different power supply for the amp and they decided on the current design which negates the need for it?
Question is, what caps would those be. It seems they were thinking of a different power supply for the amp and they decided on the current design which negates the need for it?
The two missing caps are at the what I was told is a rail splitter. The power supply is 24V, but at the missing caps, it measures 12V across. I figure 16V 3300uf caps like those already present on the amp may help though I haven’t tried it out yet. Either way, it’s cheap.
IMO, I think the caps were cut for cost savings. This amp was originally fully balanced, but for cost saving the pot was changed to single ended as well.
Objectively, near perfect channel balance and no more scratchy pot.
Subjectively, to give this amp micro dynamics. It simply has none, it’s so flat. That’s why lots of people call it lifeless. I’m attempting additional mods for its fatiguing sound as well.
I never had scratchy pot. Mine is butter smooth.
So by changing the volume knob, it improves micro dynamics ? This is the most absurb thing I ever heard. Of course its so suppose to be flat and colourless similar to any transparent amp. By lifeless means lack of colouration, just get a warmer tube amp or something.
I never had scratchy pot. Mine is butter smooth.
So by changing the volume knob, it improves micro dynamics ? This is the most absurb thing I ever heard. Of course its so suppose to be flat and colourless similar to any transparent amp. By lifeless means lack of colouration, just get a warmer tube amp or something.
Your question and subsequent response were so predictable that they were redundant. Next you’ll tell me your golden sample amp also has perfect channel balance. If you have no interest in this mod then keep such unsolicited and uninspired comments away from actual listeners as it wastes everyone’s time.
Your question and subsequent response were so predictable that they were redundant. Next you’ll tell me your golden sample amp also has perfect channel balance. If you have no interest in this mod then keep such unsolicited and uninspired comments away from actual listeners as it wastes everyone’s time.
I apologize if I come in strong as this amp has the ability to bring out the worst from the subjective and objective camp. What I can say is that it makes a good BA iem amp for both camps and this pot can help that cause with its near perfect channel balance. IMO subjectively the pot stifles this things micro dynamics.
When you destroy the plastic housing in the original pot, what we’re after is the metal O ring that is keeping the volume knob on the other side in place. If you cut the O ring out, the volume knob and the shaft it’s attached to will just come out on the other side. You can then use needle nose pliers to remove the shaft from the volume knob for re-use.
Thank you! So you were able to mount the laser collection pot inside the case.. Nice! Can you share a picture of how it looks now? Did you remove the relay that's in the way? Is it Bypassed? Relocated?
Sorry for all the questions... I think your solution is the one to go for. I was heavily thinking of getting a 64 step relay based volume control board and mount it upside down so it wouldn't interfere with anything on the main board. But looking carefully at the board design, If the board is mounted that way... most of the board would be outside the case, and I could not enclose it. Other boards I looked at have taller capacitors that would get in the way as well and the boards are bigger. I also looked at a small chip based board using a MUSES chip.. looks nice, but it's expensive and again... it also has tall SMDs and they would all need an external 5v or 12v power source for those boards to run. In the end, I think the juice is not worth the squeeze.
So I decided to follow up on your solution. It's the simplest and just going by your experience, it also seems to be working as intended and it's an actual improvement over the original part performance wise. I feel this could be a great mod for others to follow and extend the life of this amp. For me, this would be IT while I can save to get a higher end amp after first getting a higher end pair of headphones. So thank you for your contribution
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