[iamjaymo]

Ordered a Lyr 3 this morning and got notification it shipped by afternoon - not bad turn around!

Looking forward to the Lyr with the Tung-Sol tube. Been a while since I had a tube amp, hybrid or otherwise.

 

[bcowen]

So true. A disease with no cure; only temporary remission!
thx for your input. seems a lot of people like the aeon. are yours open/ closed? what else did you demo before picking them? how is the comfort?

I have the closed (in my sig). Needed the isolation with the spousal unit in the room (from both aspects).

I'm pretty new at the headphone thing, so my experience is rather limited. First 'phones I liked were the Alpha Primes, so the Aeon's were a natural progression.

 

[erics75]

thx for the suggestion. One more question:
if you could buy a used pair of LCD3, vs a new pair of LCD2 which one would you do? the used lcd3 would be about 1000 so cost wise, they are the same. I understand the LCD3 are the higher end can, but reviews are mixed. innerfidelity removed them from the "wall of fame" due to newer cans like the lcd2c in terms of value. i am also considering the aeon flow. no hifiman. the clamp is too tight for my head. thx

if you're looking at the lcd3 or lcd2c, i'd suggest also looking for used zmf eikon and atticus. i recently heard the lcd2c, and briefly owned the lcd3. both audeze are good, but have slightly unnatural treble. it's grainy with some hard glare. i know everyone says the lcd2's are dark, but the treble still sounds off to me. totally my opinion though, you may not agree. when i heard the atticus it was a revelation in that it had a similar dark signature, but has a very organic and natural treble presentation with tons of detail.

a word of warning on audeze, do you homework, they're prone to defects/failure. i bought a used lcd3 and the driver died about a week after i got it. audeze did hook me up and replaced it for free (shipping on me) under warranty. but it was a pain in the buttocks. my coworker's lcd2c just died on him, it's being sent in for warranty as well. if you cringe at the thought of stuff like this, avoid audeze and hifiman. dont even get me started on hifiman!!!!

one final suggestion that just hit me, the beyerdynamic dt 1990. it's beyond underrated. it's relatively affordable, sounds amazing, is built well, and is just criminally ignored by people because of beyerdynamic's reputation for bright headphones.

 

[Freeflap]

if you're looking at the lcd3 or lcd2c, i'd suggest also looking for used zmf eikon and atticus. i recently heard the lcd2c, and briefly owned the lcd3. both audeze are good, but have slightly unnatural treble. it's grainy with some hard glare. i know everyone says the lcd2's are dark, but the treble still sounds off to me. totally my opinion though, you may not agree. when i heard the atticus it was a revelation in that it had a similar dark signature, but has a very organic and natural treble presentation with tons of detail.

a word of warning on audeze, do you homework, they're prone to defects/failure. i bought a used lcd3 and the driver died about a week after i got it. audeze did hook me up and replaced it for free (shipping on me) under warranty. but it was a pain in the buttocks. my coworker's lcd2c just died on him, it's being sent in for warranty as well. if you cringe at the thought of stuff like this, avoid audeze and hifiman. dont even get me started on hifiman!!!!

one final suggestion that just hit me, the beyerdynamic dt 1990. it's beyond underrated. it's relatively affordable, sounds amazing, is built well, and is just criminally ignored by people because of beyerdynamic's reputation for bright headphones.

thank you for the good advice. I also hate bad QC. but all of these are small boutique manufacturers. There are always going to be some defects along the way. I am leaning towards aeon flow or ether flow if i can find a decent used pair.
i'll look a the beyerdynamic too. thx

 

[ProfFalkin]

beyerdynamic's reputation for bright headphones.

I purchased the DT1770 and returned them hoping that the non-Pro version would be more tolerable - aka, the Amiron. Then I returned those for the DT1990 hoping that would be better, and finally just returned those as well because each one was intolerably bright. Everything about the comfort and accessories were great, especially the Amiron headband, but the treble was physically painful at times. Read that again - physically painful. It's not just a reputation. The Beyer brightness is real.

Amazon hates me, but I love their return policy.

 

[bcowen]

thank you for the good advice. I also hate bad QC. but all of these are small boutique manufacturers. There are always going to be some defects along the way. I am leaning towards aeon flow or ether flow if i can find a decent used pair.
i'll look a the beyerdynamic too. thx

Just FYI, I did quite a bit of forum searching and review reading before purchasing the Aeon's, and what I gathered was that the Aeon's give your 90 plus percent of the performance of the Ether's for half the money. Haven't heard the Ether's (in any format) so just passing along what others have said, FWIW.

 

[skyline315]

Just FYI, I did quite a bit of forum searching and review reading before purchasing the Aeon's, and what I gathered was that the Aeon's give your 90 plus percent of the performance of the Ether's for half the money. Haven't heard the Ether's (in any format) so just passing along what others have said, FWIW.

Perhaps 90% of the technical performance, but 200% gains in terms of musicality and enjoyment. Ethers are turned closer to the HD800 type of sound. Very detailed, but a bit sterile. Just my preference, of course

Back to the Lyr 3 now?

 

[Zachik]

if you're looking at the lcd3 or lcd2c, i'd suggest also looking for used zmf eikon and atticus.

+1 on the ZMF Atticus. I own a pair (and LOVE it). Pairs very nicely with the Lyr3 and stock Tung-Sol tube!
Costs more than LCD2C, but I have seen used ones go for $900 or so... Also, try contacting @zach915m - he's an amazing guy, and might have b-stock / refurb / customer returns for a lower price for you. Does not hurt to ask, and I cannot stretch enough the big step up (IMHO) from LCD2, if you like a warmer and bassier sound. Not to mention looking so much better...

 

[Wes S]

+1 on the ZMF Atticus. I own a pair (and LOVE it). Pairs very nicely with the Lyr3 and stock Tung-Sol tube!
Costs more than LCD2C, but I have seen used ones go for $900 or so... Also, try contacting @zach915m - he's an amazing guy, and might have b-stock / refurb / customer returns for a lower price for you. Does not hurt to ask, and I cannot stretch enough the big step up (IMHO) from LCD2, if you like a warmer and bassier sound. Not to mention looking so much better...

The Atticus is at the top of my list!

 

[Zachik]

The Atticus is at the top of my list!

Atticus should be at the top of anyone's list, unless:
- You hate bass or warm sound (i.e. you prefer very neutral sound signature)
- You hate closed cans (although Atticus does not feel very close, sound wise)
- You have neck muscles of a 2 year-old (they are a little heavy, but not as heavy as others... I am talking to you, LCD-XC...)
- You cannot afford it... (totally worth it if you can!!)

 

[antoramp]

Sorry for the OT: What do you think guys:
I’m interested in tube amplifiers and in the next years I’ll probably convert my current setup in tube amps...Because of this I was interested in buying a tube tester: I was initially looking for an emission tester ( more or less €150 ), but then I read about mutual conductance tests ( also speaking with you ) but then the price will rise at over three or four times or even more... In your opinion could an emission tube tester be sufficient for my needings or these testers are not so useful in tube testing? Thank you

 

[ProfFalkin]

Sorry for the OT: What do you think guys:
I’m interested in tube amplifiers and in the next years I’ll probably convert my current setup in tube amps...Because of this I was interested in buying a tube tester: I was initially looking for an emission tester ( more or less €150 ), but then I read about mutual conductance tests ( also speaking with you ) but then the price will rise at over three or four times or even more... In your opinion could an emission tube tester be sufficient for my needings or these testers are not so useful in tube testing? Thank you

I think you're putting the carriage before the horse. You don't have a tube amp, but you're going to get a tester first? This makes no sense, friend.

Tubes are a freaking complex topic, often with terrible documentation or historical information (or both) to be found on any given tube maker / model - and a lot of that matters when buying / selling tubes. Unless I were going into the business of reviewing or selling tubes and tube gear, I wouldn't even bother with a tester.

Take the money you have for the tester and put it toward a good headphone.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[bcowen]

Sorry for the OT: What do you think guys:
I’m interested in tube amplifiers and in the next years I’ll probably convert my current setup in tube amps...Because of this I was interested in buying a tube tester: I was initially looking for an emission tester ( more or less €150 ), but then I read about mutual conductance tests ( also speaking with you ) but then the price will rise at over three or four times or even more... In your opinion could an emission tube tester be sufficient for my needings or these testers are not so useful in tube testing? Thank you

Here I am agreeing with the Professor again (but trust me, I'm not a groupie...).

An emissions-only tester is practically worthless for testing audio tubes. Read this, which is not a bible by any means, but sums things up decently::

http://www.tungsol.com/html/faqs7.html

A mutual conductance tester is far better, but even most of those that can be had for less than $1k (Hickok's, B&K's, AVO's) have limitations compared to a laboratory tester. Still worthwhile to check for shorts, leakage, gas, and can be used for matching to a degree. I have a Hickok 752A that has been a good tester for making sure Ebay-sourced tubes don't have flaws that could cause problems in my equipment, and it's been helpful for rudimentary matching (between tubes, or between triodes in twin triode tubes like the one used in the Lyr 3). But you can expect to pay at east $750 for one of the better Hickoks in decent condition, and substantially more for one that is refurbished and calibrated. Buying one that hasn't had either is a fools endeavor, as 50+ year-old caps and resistors are a ticking time bomb for failure, and a 50+ year old unit that hasn't been calibrated recently is going to be worthless as far as accurate readings.

All that said, they're fun to have and fun to play with, but unless you're going to be testing a LOT of tubes (or have green stuff desperately trying to escape your wallet), it's a lot of money for something that doesn't do a thing to improve the sound of your system. There are quality vendors out there that will test tubes for you for a reasonable fee, and typically have much better equipment to do a far more comprehensive test.

 

[antoramp]

I think you're putting the carriage before the horse. You don't have a tube amp, but you're going to get a tester first? This makes no sense, friend.

Tubes are a freaking complex topic, often with terrible documentation or historical information (or both) to be found on any given tube maker / model - and a lot of that matters when buying / selling tubes. Unless I were going into the business of reviewing or selling tubes and tube gear, I wouldn't even bother with a tester.

Take the money you have for the tester and put it toward a good headphone.

Just my 2 cents.

Here I am agreeing with the Professor again (but trust me, I'm not a groupie...).

An emissions-only tester is practically worthless for testing audio tubes. Read this, which is not a bible by any means, but sums things up decently::

http://www.tungsol.com/html/faqs7.html

A mutual conductance tester is far better, but even most of those that can be had for less than $1k (Hickok's, B&K's, AVO's) have limitations compared to a laboratory tester. Still worthwhile to check for shorts, leakage, gas, and can be used for matching to a degree. I have a Hickok 752A that has been a good tester for making sure Ebay-sourced tubes don't have flaws that could cause problems in my equipment, and it's been helpful for rudimentary matching (between tubes, or between triodes in twin triode tubes like the one used in the Lyr 3). But you can expect to pay at east $750 for one of the better Hickoks in decent condition, and substantially more for one that is refurbished and calibrated. Buying one that hasn't had either is a fools endeavor, as 50+ year-old caps and resistors are a ticking time bomb for failure, and a 50+ year old unit that hasn't been calibrated recently is going to be worthless as far as accurate readings.

All that said, they're fun to have and fun to play with, but unless you're going to be testing a LOT of tubes (or have green stuff desperately trying to escape your wallet), it's a lot of money for something that doesn't do a thing to improve the sound of your system. There are quality vendors out there that will test tubes for you for a reasonable fee, and typically have much better equipment to do a far more comprehensive test.

Ok ok! thank you! So I’ll start saving up for a new headphone/ new Dac

 

[JRey]

I happened to find a used Lyr 3 and purchased it (cancelled the Schiit Audio order).
Tubes i’ll be using include the Stock NOS, a used but new production TS, and a Ken Rad vt-231 Mil Spec
Gonna compare it to the Jot, CTH, and Liquid Carbon X. Source will be the topping D50. Headphones used will be the HD600.
It’ll probably take me a week to 2 weeks to really write everything up and add it to my blog.
Weee!!!!