Long awaited Smyth SVS Realiser NOW AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE
May 8, 2019 at 8:01 PM Post #2,881 of 2,910
The headphone L/R RCA outputs for headphones are the same as the stereo phono jack output on the front. The A8 is acting as a preamp in this setup, with the ouptut going to a headphone amp which would also have its own volume control. And of course the A8's preamp has a digital volume control, which influences the output on the RCA and phono jacks.

So you normally have TWO volume controls, and using either one will affect the volume as heard in your headphones. You will by trial and error determine what works best for you, as the default volume level to set in the A8 and the dial/digital position of your amp's volume control. I have my A8 set at -10db volume, which corresponds to a Stax SRM-007tii setting of "2 o'clock", as my own everyday normal starting volume arrangement for everything. If I want things to be louder or quieter, I always only use the dial on my Stax amp. Easier and more comfortable and more precise to just walk over to the amp and tweak the volume dial a bit, until I'm hearing at the level I want. I can't remember when I used the A8's digital volume to change it from -10.

But if your amp doesn't have a volume control then I suppose the A8's will have to do.
 
May 9, 2019 at 12:33 AM Post #2,882 of 2,910
thanks for your confirmation. in my case even with a power amp i have two volume dials in the chain. the source goes to an avr by rca multichannel output and from there to the a8. i think the only problem could be if the power amp has to much juice so theres no way to find a suitable or low enough volume setting. i guess i just have to try carefully.
 
May 9, 2019 at 6:32 AM Post #2,883 of 2,910
Normally the analog inputs to the A8 would be fed from the preamp outputs of an AVR. These would normally not be affected by the volume control of the AVR which is for its own amps, for the connected speakers. I thought AVR premap outputs were line-level, which is what the A8's analog inputs are expecting.
 
Jun 4, 2019 at 4:10 PM Post #2,884 of 2,910
Can anyone recommend some replacement foam pads for the mics? I have a used A8 coming soon, and I won't be using some already used foam. Initially I thought these were going to be silicone and relatively easy to clean, but that does not seem to be the case. Because of that, I'll end up needing to buy multiple replacements for those that I end up having use this. Sharing earplugs is a huge no for me.

Does the material make a difference? I was assuming by the pics that they are intentionally using a general foam that does not block noise very well. Even though the mics will be in your ears, having less isolation would allow the sweeps to be picked up better. Does this matter at all, or can any comfortable material that will hold the mics in place work just as well?

Also, is there somewhere I can find a more updated manual, or should it really matter? The only official documentation I could find shows only the 2009 version, and not the more updated one.
 
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Jun 4, 2019 at 11:59 PM Post #2,888 of 2,910
Can anyone recommend some replacement foam pads for the mics? I have a used A8 coming soon, and I won't be using some already used foam. Initially I thought these were going to be silicone and relatively easy to clean, but that does not seem to be the case. Because of that, I'll end up needing to buy multiple replacements for those that I end up having use this. Sharing earplugs is a huge no for me.

Does the material make a difference? I was assuming by the pics that they are intentionally using a general foam that does not block noise very well. Even though the mics will be in your ears, having less isolation would allow the sweeps to be picked up better. Does this matter at all, or can any comfortable material that will hold the mics in place work just as well?

Also, is there somewhere I can find a more updated manual, or should it really matter? The only official documentation I could find shows only the 2009 version, and not the more updated one.
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/lon...le-for-purchase.418401/page-189#post-12002597
 
Jun 5, 2019 at 9:20 AM Post #2,889 of 2,910
Thanks for all of the replies.


I actually did do a quick thread search before asking, and that was one of the first hits. I also read about the conforming pads. I just wasn't sure if there was any kind of consensus on what the best fit for the mic and general ear size was and if opinions might have changed since 2015. I also asked mainly because I was more curious about the material itself, if that matters, or if to compensate you just turn up the volume.

edit: Also, since this is coming from the UK, am I likely going to need a step up/down converter for US power? The seller said that it might be an issue.

The manual says:

*The power supply works with any mains voltage and frequency and is provided with the mains plug
appropriate for the market to which the Realiser is shipped

But I don't know if I need to simply buy a plug adapter, or something more here.
 
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Jun 5, 2019 at 1:37 PM Post #2,890 of 2,910
congratz @Sanctuary

if you can get a good prir i'm shure you will be pleased.
i've never regretted the expense.

i wonder if someone was able to change the battery of the headtracker by themselves?
the capacity of mine seems to dimish quickly and can't get a reply from the smiths if theres still the possibility to send it in.
lets hope there are still plans to make the new headtracker from the a16 compatible to the a8 by firmware update.

besides. if someone wonders if the realiser works with a completely open can like the k1000... the answer is no.
its not just working but elevating the illusion :wink:
 
Jun 5, 2019 at 10:01 PM Post #2,892 of 2,910
lets hope there are still plans to make the new headtracker from the a16 compatible to the a8 by firmware update.
I hope so, even if it doesn't look like a miniature Stax enclosure.

headtracker.jpg
 
Jun 6, 2019 at 1:08 PM Post #2,893 of 2,910
So, I've been in contact with Andy at Smyth-Research, not expecting such a quick set of replies, if even a reply at all, but I got all of my questions answered. The PSU is universal, and only the plug itself needs to be changed with an adapter, and they will be able to sell me replacement packs of the pads that normally come bundled with the A8 (and I'm assuming the same pads are used with the A16 even though the wiring on the mics is different). Since I guess they had not actually had any requests for them previously, they didn't really have a set price, but the figure I was given was really cheap, so I think I'll be buying three packs.

For the rest of you; are any of you that might have a 4K TV using the HDMI out of this (I know it doesn't pass HDR), or are you just limiting it to 1080p content? The A16 will cover the more modern options when released, but I'm trying to find out if with the A8 I will be limited to audio only. If that's the case, it's not really a problem since I was primarily going to be using it with my Oppo 203 anyway, which has a separate HDMI out for audio. I also have an HTPC hooked up to a 4K TV that does the upscaling before the signal is sent out though, and am not sure this would be able to handle that. For general audio from the TV itself for something like Netflix, I'm not sure if I would even be able to take advantage of this through the ARC either.
 
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Jul 26, 2019 at 6:27 PM Post #2,894 of 2,910
Might be a stupid question, but how do you actually get the sub to play during 2ch stereo? Without it, the music is just anemic sounding, and I also can't figure out any way to get a matrixed sound like 5ch stereo from a 2ch source. The only way I can think to try to replicate this is through using the "ONE" method and simply copying the fronts in the rear. That still doesn't solve the bass/sub issue though. It might be in the manual, but I didn't see it, and the mixer only seems to be for adding lower frequencies from all of the other speakers into the sub channel, or mixing the LFE directly into the headphones.
 
Jul 26, 2019 at 9:00 PM Post #2,895 of 2,910
It might be in the manual, but I didn't see it, and the mixer only seems to be for adding lower frequencies from all of the other speakers into the sub channel, or mixing the LFE directly into the headphones.
Have you tried using the "mix block" on channels 3, 4, 5 and 6? Mix blocks can send the L and/or R input signals to the C, SW, LS and RS speakers, and they keep the full range of frequencies. By the way, the tactile output has its own mix block as well.

Example
3: C = 0.5 L + 0.5 R
4: SW = 0.5 L + 0.5 R
5: LS = 1.0 L
6: RS = 1.0 R
 

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