[Shane D]

Thank you for the reply, I have a hd650 and a beyer 880 600 ohm. cheers.
I'll use it for something else maybe the vinyl collection.

Just to be clear, is your chain set up as:
1) Source Quobuz/lap top?
2) DAC Qutest?
3) EQ Loki?
4) Amp Beyer A20?
5) Headphone HD800/HD650?

 

[Gazny]

1) Tidal exclusive mode /MPD
2.1) Schiit Eitr
2.2) Dac Bifrost
3) Asgard 2
4) HD 650

I was only able to hear the veil in comparison to other headphones or iem's,

 

[xcom]

Just added a Loki to my stack. No regrets.

 

[greenblured]

Just to be clear, is your chain set up as:
1) Source Quobuz/lap top?
2) DAC Qutest?
3) EQ Loki?
4) Amp Beyer A20?
5) Headphone HD800/HD650?

Just to be clear, is your chain set up as:
1) Source Quobuz/lap top?
2) DAC Qutest?
3) EQ Loki?
4) Amp Beyer A20?
5) Headphone HD800/HD650?

This is my set up.Ipad, no lap top.

 

[Gazny]

Loki review for everyone here.

 

[Dionysus]

I watched this video but thought he really didn’t provide much insight. Would have liked to see him install it and show some results from use. Just my opinion.

 

[jambaj0e]

So I used the Loki today and yesterday on my audio system between my Chord Qutest and Cayin HA-300 tube amp with an Audeze LCD-3 Fazor. Tubes are 2x Psvane Acme 300b with about 60 hours and 2x Psvane CV181-T II with about 90 hours. I’m running Morrow Audio RCA cables between the Qutest and Loki, and between the Loki and HA-300. Both cables have around 200 hours. I also have an iFi Nano iUSB3.0 between the Chord Qutest and my Windows 10 PC.



Throughout the listening session, I keep fiddling with the knobs, as well as the by-pass to see if it’s really transparent, as well as how much to add. The tone changes do work as advertised, adding as needed smoothly on each knob, as well as sounding exactly the same when you zero it all out vs by-pass.

That being said, I keep having this feeling that the mids are now a bit more forward and less “in the space”, the large soundstage shrunk a bit, and that something seems a bit off with female vocals at times.

So I A/B with the system with the Loki completely removed, and I was right! The female vocal got a bit smoother and there’s less grain in the mid-treble range when notes are sustained. Additionally, some of the instrument separation and natural timbre that I lost came back, too.

Well, so much for transparent signal!

Granted, it’s all about system synergy, and the HA-300 (especially with the resolving Psvane ACME 300bs) is known for being sensitive on what’s plugged in both ends. Perhaps it just accentuated the graininess of the Loki that would’ve otherwise been missed with a less resolving system.

Tracks listened in 16-bit 44Khz or 24-bit 48-192Khz FLAC on Amazon Music HD for the A/B test:

Heize - Falling Leaves are Beautiful
Polo & Pan - Bakara
Katie - Thinking About You
Heze - But, I am Your Buddy
Almost Here - 360 Degree tricks
Alexandre Desplat (Isle of Dogs OST) - Jupiter & Oracle
Arne Domnerus - Limehouse Blues (Live)
Bambi - River Run
Mariah Carey - Fourth of July

 

[CaptainFantastic]

Well, so much for transparent signal!

Wow, very much appreciated, this. Thanks!

 

[Slim1970]

So I used the Loki today and yesterday on my audio system between my Chord Qutest and Cayin HA-300 tube amp with an Audeze LCD-3 Fazor. Tubes are 2x Psvane Acme 300b with about 60 hours and 2x Psvane CV181-T II with about 90 hours. I’m running Morrow Audio RCA cables between the Qutest and Loki, and between the Loki and HA-300. Both cables have around 200 hours. I also have an iFi Nano iUSB3.0 between the Chord Qutest and my Windows 10 PC.



Throughout the listening session, I keep fiddling with the knobs, as well as the by-pass to see if it’s really transparent, as well as how much to add. The tone changes do work as advertised, adding as needed smoothly on each knob, as well as sounding exactly the same when you zero it all out vs by-pass.

That being said, I keep having this feeling that the mids are now a bit more forward and less “in the space”, the large soundstage shrunk a bit, and that something seems a bit off with female vocals at times.

So I A/B with the system with the Loki completely removed, and I was right! The female vocal got a bit smoother and there’s less grain in the mid-treble range when notes are sustained. Additionally, some of the instrument separation and natural timbre that I lost came back, too.

Well, so much for transparent signal!

Granted, it’s all about system synergy, and the HA-300 (especially with the resolving Psvane ACME 300bs) is known for being sensitive on what’s plugged in both ends. Perhaps it just accentuated the graininess of the Loki that would’ve otherwise been missed with a less resolving system.

Tracks listened in 16-bit 44Khz or 24-bit 48-192Khz FLAC on Amazon Music HD for the A/B test:

Heize - Falling Leaves are Beautiful
Polo & Pan - Bakara
Katie - Thinking About You
Heze - But, I am Your Buddy
Almost Here - 360 Degree tricks
Alexandre Desplat (Isle of Dogs OST) - Jupiter & Oracle
Arne Domnerus - Limehouse Blues (Live)
Bambi - River Run
Mariah Carey - Fourth of July

Just as you said, I think you’re experiencing some signal attenuation with the Loki feeding your tube amp. Try lowering the output on your Quetest, maybe 2 volts is too high. The Loki also adds some gain to the signal when on. Between the two, I could see some problems arising. Especially, with tubes in the mix. I haven’t experienced any of the issues you’re describing with solid state amps.

 

[Shane D]

Yes, it certainly does raise the gain. Noticeable volume jump.

I have never tried it with my hybrid tube amps. I just got my first real tube amp and have no interest in plugging in the Loki.

Most of my Loki time is dedicated to the Koss ESP/E95X system.

In the past I have used my Loki to give my Grado's some bass and clean up my Beyer's.

Can I ask what you trying to change on your tube amp?

 

[jambaj0e]

Yes, it certainly does raise the gain. Noticeable volume jump.

I have never tried it with my hybrid tube amps. I just got my first real tube amp and have no interest in plugging in the Loki.

Most of my Loki time is dedicated to the Koss ESP/E95X system.

In the past I have used my Loki to give my Grado's some bass and clean up my Beyer's.

Can I ask what you trying to change on your tube amp?

Only thing I'd like on my tube amp is some more bass slam and more body in the mid-bass. I think it's also part of the Psvane ACME 300b still needs to some burning in, which I've read on other forums. So hopefully once I get closer to 100 hours it'll start to drop down more.

The TJ Full music 300bs + Psvane CV181-T II that I have together previously gave me that really nice sound together in the bottom end, although at times I can sense a bit too much density and mixing in the mid/mid-treble when there's a lot of complexity. The JJ Full Music has had 200 hours on it, though.

The Psvane ACME 300b + Psvane CV181-T II is insanely detailed with big soundstage and very clear instrument separation while still staying smooth with vocals. The Loki, unfortunately affected the harder to adjust sound quality. I just went back to adding a bit more bass via Equalizer APO + Audeze Reveal + Equalizer Peace since they don't affect anything else besides frequency.

 

[Shane D]

Only thing I'd like on my tube amp is some more bass slam and more body in the mid-bass. I think it's also part of the Psvane ACME 300b still needs to some burning in, which I've read on other forums. So hopefully once I get closer to 100 hours it'll start to drop down more.

The JJ Full music 300bs + Psvane CV181-T II that I have together previously gave me that really nice sound together in the bottom end, although at times I can sense a bit too much density and mixing in the mid/mid-treble when there's a lot of complexity. The JJ Full Music has had 200 hours on it, though.

The Psvane ACME 300b + Psvane CV181-T II is insanely detailed with big soundstage and very clear instrument separation while still staying smooth with vocals. The Loki, unfortunately affected the harder to adjust sound quality. I just went back to adding a bit more bass via Equalizer APO + Audeze Reveal + Equalizer Peace since they don't affect anything else besides frequency.

I just bought a tube amp from Mapletree Audio Design called the Ear+ HD II.
I knew it wouldn't be thick, syrupy or bassy as I wanted a low impedance amp. I figured I would be short on bass, but after 40 hours it has loosened up and sounds great. Good strong bass with my Grado GH2's.

I would never think to EQ a tube amp. I would either tube roll or return it.

I will be making further changes to the collection and I think the only use for the Loki (mandatory) will be for the Koss Electrostatics.

 

[jambaj0e]

I just bought a tube amp from Mapletree Audio Design called the Ear+ HD II.
I knew it wouldn't be thick, syrupy or bassy as I wanted a low impedance amp. I figured I would be short on bass, but after 40 hours it has loosened up and sounds great. Good strong bass with my Grado GH2's.

I would never think to EQ a tube amp. I would either tube roll or return it.

I will be making further changes to the collection and I think the only use for the Loki (mandatory) will be for the Koss Electrostatics.

I decided to leave the Loki in the system. The differences when I heard it today is actually a lot more subtle, and I'd have to really look for it and A/B to really, really notice. Plus, I'm not really satisfied w/ the Equalizer APO way since upping the bass tends to have an effect on the mid-treble and treble, then I have to compensate there, too. It's a bit more of a mess than just using 4 knobs (two really. I only change the bass and Mid-bass)

 

[jambaj0e]

Has anyone changed the wall wart for Loki, by any chance? I use the 5V iFi iPower Low Noise DC Power Supply for my Chord Qutest and they show that they have a 15V version. But the Loki manual does say it's 16VAC and to "not use any other wall-wart, or bad things might happen."

Is this 16VAC different/special vs a regular 15/16V wall wart?

 

[Shane D]

I decided to leave the Loki in the system. The differences when I heard it today is actually a lot more subtle, and I'd have to really look for it and A/B to really, really notice. Plus, I'm not really satisfied w/ the Equalizer APO way since upping the bass tends to have an effect on the mid-treble and treble, then I have to compensate there, too. It's a bit more of a mess than just using 4 knobs (two really. I only change the bass and Mid-bass)

The Loki can be very subtle. I was shocked that I could max out the bass and not cause any distortion. I will Always keep it in my system.