Little Dot I+ Tube Rolling
Jan 4, 2016 at 6:07 PM Post #2,446 of 3,154
  Just got my 1+ today. I have the bottom open I'm trying to set the switch 1 and switch 2 position to on for the lowest gain as per the manual. But all I see are two jumpers on k2 and I see a j2 with nothing on it and another one labled ON:EF92 which doesnt have a jumper on it either. Anyone have a picture or can tell me what I need to do to put it on the lowest gain? Thanks.
 
Also I looked at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqaNwG1Ls2Y  and it seems like mine has a different circuit board without the switches and it has the jumpers in its place so I'm kinda confused lol.

 
As there have been a number of different circuit board revisions over time, I suggest you post a picture of yours and perhaps then, we can help you.
 
Jan 4, 2016 at 6:22 PM Post #2,447 of 3,154
   
As there have been a number of different circuit board revisions over time, I suggest you post a picture of yours and perhaps then, we can help you.


 
Jan 4, 2016 at 9:57 PM Post #2,448 of 3,154
I see that yours is version 2.0, whereas, more recent amps are version 4.0 (or maybe higher). And comparing pictures of version 2.0 and 4.0 boards, it looks to me that your older board doesn't have gain control switches...
 
Did your amp come with the original manual? If not, maybe there is someone else reading this forum with a version 2.0 amp and still has the manual, who would be willing to jump in here?
 
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Jan 5, 2016 at 7:18 AM Post #2,449 of 3,154

 
Looks like this may come to rescue.......  Quoted from the LD1+ manual.    Try Jumpers J3 & J4
 

 
"Little Dot I+ Gain Control   
The Little Dot I+ has two internal jumpers, that control the gain of the amplifier.  You can access the gain switches by removing the lower half of the chassis.  Please power off the amplifier, and unplug it for at least 10 minutes before attempting to change the gain settings (to ensure capacitors have fully discharged).  In addition, please take steps to ground yourself before handing the circuit as static discharge can kill the amplifier!   

Near one of the tube sockets, the jumpers that control gain are J3 and J4.  When J3 and J4 are capped, the gain for each channel is set to 3.5.  When the jumper cap is removed (open circuit), the circuit gain is set to 7.   
IMPORTANT: Please be careful when setting switches and jumper caps as these are circuit elements and will be fairly delicate.  Using too much force may result in damage! "
 
Jan 5, 2016 at 10:55 AM Post #2,450 of 3,154
   
Looks like this may come to rescue.......  Quoted from the LD1+ manual.    Try Jumpers J3 & J4
 

 
"Little Dot I+ Gain Control   
The Little Dot I+ has two internal jumpers, that control the gain of the amplifier.  You can access the gain switches by removing the lower half of the chassis.  Please power off the amplifier, and unplug it for at least 10 minutes before attempting to change the gain settings (to ensure capacitors have fully discharged).  In addition, please take steps to ground yourself before handing the circuit as static discharge can kill the amplifier!   

Near one of the tube sockets, the jumpers that control gain are J3 and J4.  When J3 and J4 are capped, the gain for each channel is set to 3.5.  When the jumper cap is removed (open circuit), the circuit gain is set to 7.   
IMPORTANT: Please be careful when setting switches and jumper caps as these are circuit elements and will be fairly delicate.  Using too much force may result in damage! "

Thanks! It looks like the jumper caps are already on j3 and j4. I looked at the newest version of the manual and it says the gain is 2.5 when set to the lowest gain. Do the newer versions of this amp have different gain values? Just wondering because I don't crank the volume pot past 10 with Grado RS2e headphones.
 
Also I'm getting a slight humming/hissing sound that I wasn't getting before. Even with the volume all the way down. It wasn't doing that yesterday. I had it running overnight for 8 hours to burn in.
 
Jan 6, 2016 at 4:50 AM Post #2,451 of 3,154
The hissing went away and only a very slight hum coming from the amp even with volume all the way down. Used it for a few hours and let it rest for about 5 hours and turned it on again and a loud hissing sound is coming through.
 
I was searching the internet and found these very rare Voshkod gold-platinum grid, gold pin 6ZH1P-EV OTK 7 tubes and ordered 2 pairs straight from Russia. They were pretty expensive at $46 for a pair but they are NOS and from 1977. I currently have the same tube but the 1985 version with normal pins and not gold-platinum grid. I heard the ones from the 70s are better sounding and I wanted to get the highest quality version of these tubes since they already sound amazing and I think my current tubes may be the reason why i have the hissing issue.
 

 
Next I want to upgrade my opamp. I already have the OPA2107 and I see people here talking about the muses 02 and saw someone mention the supreme sound burson v5 opamp. I see everyone talking highly of the muses, but has anyone here used the burson or can confirm it will fit in the 1+ housing? The muses02 is $40 and the burson is $70 so I might as well opt for the burson if it's better and also because they have a 30 day return policy in case I don't like them.
 
Jan 8, 2016 at 5:03 AM Post #2,452 of 3,154
Hi everybody! May I ask you guys about MUSES02?
Amazon sells it,Do you guys have any idea whether a particular MUSES02 opamp is original or not? (Since the surface plate on eBay is silver-ish while the picture on Amazon it's black-ish).
 
The link http://www.amazon.com/New-Japan-Radio-Operational-Amplifier/dp/B00B086ZTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452247065&sr=8-1&keywords=muses02
 
Jan 8, 2016 at 10:23 AM Post #2,453 of 3,154
  Hi everybody! May I ask you guys about MUSES02?
Amazon sells it,Do you guys have any idea whether a particular MUSES02 opamp is original or not? (Since the surface plate on eBay is silver-ish while the picture on Amazon it's black-ish).
 
The link http://www.amazon.com/New-Japan-Radio-Operational-Amplifier/dp/B00B086ZTQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452247065&sr=8-1&keywords=muses02

 
It is very difficult to tell from pictures on a web site if an opamp is genuine or fake. Given that this is fulfilled by Amazon, I would think this is almost certainly genuine. And if not, being Amazon, it is very easy to return. While I seriously doubt that the "great majority of those for sale are fake", as one reviewer claims, of course, it is always best to purchase from a trusted seller. Once you have a Muses in your hands, the easiest way to determine if it is genuine (other than the sound) is to check the legs. The copper legs on Muses opamps are significantly softer and more easily bent compared to a normal DIP 8 opamp.
 
I have purchased several opamps, including the Muses01 and 02 from the eBay vendor janeh2100, and have no doubt that mine are genuine. 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400418607953
 

 

 

 
Jan 8, 2016 at 11:12 AM Post #2,454 of 3,154
Originally Posted by gibosi /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
I have purchased several opamps, including the Muses01 and 02 from the eBay vendor janeh2100, and have no doubt that mine are genuine. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400418607953

 
Thank you for the picture! I'll keep your picture in mind should I decided to get the Muses02. I uh... I actually bought an opa2107 from janeh2100. I asked for shipping with tracking, and the seller agreed to ship it with tracking number with an extra several $ to be paid to their paypal directly.
 
And uh... it got shipped to Ukraine. I live in Asia by the way. So I'm... not that eager to buy something from them anymore. Actually, despite the eBay information saying that the seller location being in Hong Kong, my OPA2107 showed that the shipping origin was Malaysia. That doesn't matter in itself, it's just that my OPA2107 tracking information showed that it got shipped to Ukraine, that was disappointing.
 
I guess it's an isolated incident though. My guess is that the OPA2107 is being shipped by some other vendor in Malaysia (a business partner probably?) while the eBay vendor themselves is in Hong Kong, so the Malaysia partner was the one who made the mistake.
 
Edit: I'm sure from the many that have bought from that eBay vendor here, that what happened to me was just a mix-up. It's just that Ukraine is not even in the same continent with where I currently live. Also, the OPA2107 got to me eventually.
 
Jan 8, 2016 at 6:30 PM Post #2,459 of 3,154
  Anyone try a Burson Supreme OpAmp v4 or v5? :)  Being that they're so tall, I don't even know if they'd fit in the chassis.

 
 
Burson sells extenders so you can have the opamp sideways if it doesn't fit straight up.
 
 
 
  I have no doubt it will fit in mine...............
wink.gif

 

 
 
 
 

 
 
What are those wires coming out of it?
 
Jan 8, 2016 at 6:45 PM Post #2,460 of 3,154
 Those are for the tubes that i used to roll instead of buying a adapter i soldered the wires directly to the sockets then i gutted it so no need for me to buy adapters per tubes i can roll tubes without buying any expensive adapters(see first picture that is what my 1+ look like after i gutted it).
 
 

 

 

 

 

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