[BottleFred]

The micro-controller on the 004 is actually on the main board, it programs the 9038s, this is why the DAC runs without the display.

You will need to cut the I2C lines coming out of the stock microcontroller if you want to use the IANCanada board.
The stock micro-controller is the square chip next to the USB interface.

Once you have done this you need an I2C bus analyzer like a bus pirate to check the wire protocol used over I2C
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12942

jaiks, don't want to damage the board just yet...

 

[BottleFred]

You can put here a photo of the top and another of the bottom of your main board, I think you have not done this, so the users here will know what version you have and will better help you in future doubts you may have.

As promised a few photo's of the board.
It actually says 15V en 9V on the bottom side!

 

[BottleFred]

The micro-controller on the 004 is actually on the main board, it programs the 9038s, this is why the DAC runs without the display.

You will need to cut the I2C lines coming out of the stock microcontroller if you want to use the IANCanada board.
The stock micro-controller is the square chip next to the USB interface.

Once you have done this you need an I2C bus analyzer like a bus pirate to check the wire protocol used over I2C
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/12942

I don't think I need the Bus Pirate, but thanks for the tip!

 

[BottleFred]

I don't think I need the Bus Pirate, but thanks for the tip!

Figured out which pin goes where.

 

[oldearwax]

Hello BottleFred, it*appears* that the LKS DAC board is using SPI (pins MISO, MOSI, SCLK, SS) protocol to communicate with the display.
It is easier for you to look for an SPI compatible display.

 

[BottleFred]

Hello BottleFred, it*appears* that the LKS DAC board is using SPI (pins MISO, MOSI, SCLK, SS) protocol to communicate with the display.
It is easier for you to look for an SPI compatible display.

Hello oldearwax, thanks again!
BTW I found the specs of the used display in the LKS: http://hkw5b57f3.pic33.websiteonline.cn/upload/KH202MDA2-1.pdf

Still not sure how to toggle my way around the buttons (input/volume etc)

 

[oldearwax]

My bad ... the LKS display uses a parallel interface.

To use Ian Canada's controller board, this is what he said:
Works with external ESS DAC

It's also possible to make this ESS controller working as a dedicated controller of
an external ESS DAC even without a Raspberry Pi.

To do so, you will need:
1. Solder the 10 wires of the cable to the footprint of J3.
2. Connect the wires of the cable to the corresponding signal pins of the DAC.
3. Remove any possible local controller that connected to the I2C bus of the ESS DAC.
Also make sure I2S bus has pull-up resistors for both signals.

https://github.com/iancanada/DocumentDownload/tree/master/ESScontroller

Point #3 makes it infeasible.

 

[BottleFred]

My bad ... the LKS display uses a parallel interface.

To use Ian Canada's controller board, this is what he said:
Works with external ESS DAC

It's also possible to make this ESS controller working as a dedicated controller of
an external ESS DAC even without a Raspberry Pi.

To do so, you will need:
1. Solder the 10 wires of the cable to the footprint of J3.
2. Connect the wires of the cable to the corresponding signal pins of the DAC.
3. Remove any possible local controller that connected to the I2C bus of the ESS DAC.
Also make sure I2S bus has pull-up resistors for both signals.

https://github.com/iancanada/DocumentDownload/tree/master/ESScontroller

Point #3 makes it infeasible.

Okay... No good... Many thanks for your time and effort!

 

[ESL57]

Okay... No good... Many thanks for your time and effort!

If you master microcontrollers, design your own screen from scratch, with keyboard and infrared receiver and communicate it directly to those ES9038PROs, it can be a fun job, anyway that IAN CANADA module if it ever worked, I don't think it will do 100 % of the functions correctly, also that display is ridiculously small you will need binoculars at 2m distance
Photos in case you need to see something of the original .....

 

[BottleFred]

If you master microcontrollers, design your own screen from scratch, with keyboard and infrared receiver and communicate it directly to those ES9038PROs, it can be a fun job, anyway that IAN CANADA module if it ever worked, I don't think it will do 100 % of the functions correctly, also that display is ridiculously small you will need binoculars at 2m distance
Photos in case you need to see something of the original .....

Hello ESL57, Thanks for the photo's much appreciated! I master a lot, but microcontrollers... No...

Maybe I can connect an I2C mini display to this ports?
Are connected to:
- V (probably 3.3V)
- Ground
And to the microcontroller
- P3.1/TXD/T2
- P3.0/RXD/INT4/T2CLKO
Somehow seems too good to be true...

 

[ESL57]

Hello ESL57, Thanks for the photo's much appreciated! I master a lot, but microcontrollers... No...

Maybe I can connect an I2C mini display to this ports?
Are connected to:
- V (probably 3.3V)
- Ground
And to the microcontroller
- P3.1/TXD/T2
- P3.0/RXD/INT4/T2CLKO
Somehow seems too good to be true...

I never looked closely at that STC microcontroller nor did I care much about its data sheet, those 4 pins I thought were for communication and updating the firmware, the users who understand here will tell the truth.
If you need some measure or data of the module you can ask me, I will be several days working on the power supply of my unit.

 

[ESL57]

Increase the output of the 2 right most regulators to 4.5V and see if the problem goes away
If not increase output to 5V

-IMPORTANT-
Do this when the DAC is cold, to avoid feeding the too much voltage to the final stage regulators at the cold startup.

Check voltage at the final stage regulator inputs
4 for the 9038 (2x LT1763 and 2x TPS7A47xx)
1 for the LT1763 feeding the line drivers

- Measure voltages when DAC is cold (no noise)
- Measure again when DAC is warm and shows noise at output

Post any observations if the voltage drops during warm up.

B0bb this up here was what you recommended to me a while ago, go up to 4.5v (DAC chip core regulator 4.1v), even at 5v, I have the LT3083 in tests mounted and powered to calibrate it outside the dac, with the resistor In the Set pin of 100kohm I get 5v at the output (external power supply at 8.9v), I know you mentioned that the capacitors of the following regulators will have more voltage reserve and would work better. Is it what we should have there 5v or better I recalculate it for 4.5v? It is just for safety before you mount it on the dac.
Anyway when I make a change in the regulators or in the power supply the first time I use a Variac for safety to make a soft and progressive start from AC and measure the DC outputs in case something does not stop where it should and the smoke never appear.

 

[b0bb]

I know you mentioned that the capacitors of the following regulators will have more voltage reserve and would work better. Is it what we should have there 5v or better I recalculate it for 4.5v? It is just for safety before you mount it on the dac.

Either would be ok, 4.5V lowers the dissipation on the secondary regulator.

 

[BottleFred]

I never looked closely at that STC microcontroller nor did I care much about its data sheet, those 4 pins I thought were for communication and updating the firmware, the users who understand here will tell the truth.
If you need some measure or data of the module you can ask me, I will be several days working on the power supply of my unit.

Okay, I’ve decided to go without display and control (for the moment) and use the coax input, I’ve ordered the transformers (7V although 9V was specified on the bottom side of the board). The measurements lead to believe 6,5/7V is more appropriate.
I’ve read somewhere someone used a 3.15A fuse (250V), I presume it’s slow blow, can you confirm the value?

 

[ESL57]

Okay, I’ve decided to go without display and control (for the moment) and use the coax input, I’ve ordered the transformers (7V although 9V was specified on the bottom side of the board). The measurements lead to believe 6,5/7V is more appropriate.
I’ve read somewhere someone used a 3.15A fuse (250V), I presume it’s slow blow, can you confirm the value?

I bought my unit from a friend and I did not release it myself, I had never looked at the fuse (luckily) I am not a fan of expensive audio fuse brands. If my friend don't change it here I have a nice gold T2.5A fuse, we also have 230v around here further south.