[littlexx26]

X_X sorry to hear that

Use flux apply around the 575, turn the air gun at the right temperature, and use a tweezers to grab it out while applying hot air around it. Then toss the 575 away

i was following your 370f and 390f rule, however the solder is hard as rock. so i cranked up the temp and resulted the lid detached. so scared now

 

[Whitigir]

i was following your 370f and 390f rule, however the solder is hard as rock. so i cranked up the temp and resulted the lid detached. so scared now

Should have followed the temperature setting. If it was hard, you didn’t have the heat on long enough. When it is on that temperature long enough, it would be easily be out . Don’t worry, damaging the 575 is ok, you have 950X on hand.

Be cautious though, don’t crank up heat too high and or fan speed too much. You may blow away the little MLCC capacitors or resistors

 

[littlexx26]

Should have followed the temperature setting. If it was hard, you didn’t have the heat on long enough. When it is on that temperature long enough, it would be easily be out . Don’t worry, damaging the 575 is ok, you have 950X on hand.

Be cautious though, don’t crank up heat too high and or fan speed too much. You may blow away the little MLCC capacitors or resistors

it looks like this now. i think still ok?

 

[Whitigir]

Damn, those are huge heat sinks for the 9038Pro. Yes, your clock is still fine, only the shield cover is off. But why worry. Apply some flux, and blow around and tweezer it off. Keeps the temperature at 390F...unless your is not accurate

 

[littlexx26]

Damn, those are huge heat sinks for the 9038Pro. Yes, your clock is still fine, only the shield cover is off. But why worry. Apply some flux, and blow around and tweezer it off. Keeps the temperature at 390F...unless your is not accurate

i am using this
https://www.banggood.com/YIHUA-8858...lHlPYFrSrfshXZSQWMu9Bamx-3xKvYYRoC27AQAvD_BwE

 

[Paul Staples]

Should have followed the temperature setting. If it was hard, you didn’t have the heat on long enough. When it is on that temperature long enough, it would be easily be out . Don’t worry, damaging the 575 is ok, you have 950X on hand.

Be cautious though, don’t crank up heat too high and or fan speed too much. You may blow away the little MLCC capacitors or resistors

Hi, been a while!
nice to hear you're still on it!
Right the heat gun; do you have to use a square/rectangular nozzle, OR is the round one fine? cheers!

 

[demos]

You can use a copper wire and solder iron like this to remove it

remember to use plenty of solder flux on the solder joint when heating

 

[Whitigir]

You can use a copper wire and solder iron like this to remove it

remember to use plenty of solder flux on the solder joint when heating

Definitely ! This was one way to do it, but you need to watch a YouTube video or so

Hi, been a while!
nice to hear you're still on it!
Right the heat gun; do you have to use a square/rectangular nozzle, OR is the round one fine? cheers!

I use round tip, and smaller

 

[b0bb]

i was following your 370f and 390f rule, however the solder is hard as rock. so i cranked up the temp and resulted the lid detached. so scared now

The board has a lot of copper on the ground planes, you have to heat the board faster than the copper can cool it without overheating the immediate area.

Heat both sides of the board, the square area bounded by the 9038s, regulator and resistors.

Bring it slowly to temp slowly at 350 ºF. 7-10mins each side alternating every 2-3 mins, keep the wand moving constantly to avoid hotspots

When the solder starts melting it expands, the XO board will start to float on the solder, remove it with tweezers.You might not see the floating on your board as some of the solder has been removed.

 

[Whitigir]

@b0bb , I was thinking about using Toshin Kyogo capacitors to replaces these Nichicon fine gold. Do you think it is a good idea ? Or shall I just replace them all with FP-Nichicon. I kinda like the FP-Nichicon signature. These guys are 47uF-25V

I use older picture, the blue caps at the clock regulators is out.

 

[Paul Staples]

Definitely ! This was one way to do it, but you need to watch a YouTube video or so


I use round tip, and smaller

thanks friend.

 

[Whitigir]

@demos , I didn’t notice the 950X picture at first look! Are you playing with it ? X_X. Keep us updated

 

[b0bb]

@b0bb , I was thinking about using Toshin Kyogo capacitors to replaces these Nichicon fine gold. Do you think it is a good idea ? Or shall I just replace them all with FP-Nichicon. I kinda like the FP-Nichicon signature. These guys are 47uF-25V

I use older picture, the blue caps at the clock regulators is out.

Nichicon FP-Caps are a mixed bag for audio circuits, they can alter the sonic signature making it quite cold and etched.
They are very good as digital power supply bypass.

Post the datasheet the Toshin Kyogo capacitors that you are interested in.

Panasonic FMs on the I/V Balanced section (lower row) is what I will use. LKS use FMs in their previous models, bypass them with low value (100-330pF) glass dielectric caps.
Corning (CGW) makes them, NOS caps show up on ebay every now and then.

 

[Whitigir]

Nichicon FP-Caps are a mixed bag for audio circuits, they can alter the sonic signature making it quite cold and etched.
They are very good as digital power supply bypass.

Post the datasheet the Toshin Kyogo capacitors that you are interested in.

Panasonic FMs on the I/V Balanced section (lower row) is what I will use. LKS use FMs in their previous models, bypass them with low value (100-330pF) glass dielectric caps.
Corning (CGW) makes them, NOS caps show up on ebay every now and then.

Here is the spec of the TK
http://www.toshinkk.co.jp/product/productPDF/P65_UTSJ.pdf

I am seeking cleaner bass lines and better punches with better vertical presentations of soundstage. I had other experiences with these goals with United-Chemicon. Not sure if I want to drop them in here

 

[b0bb]

Here is the spec of the TK
http://www.toshinkk.co.jp/product/productPDF/P65_UTSJ.pdf

I am seeking cleaner bass lines and better punches with better vertical presentations of soundstage. I had other experiences with these goals with United-Chemicon. Not sure if I want to drop them in here

The Panasonic FM + CGW will probably fit that role, they have a slightly leaner presentation than the Nichicon FGs but dynamic punch improves somewhat once the CGWs are added.
The Nichicons (Muse/FG) sounds very lush at the expense of blurring out soundstage details.

The TK caps seem like a side grade of the existing Nichicon FG caps, endurance under hot conditions not much better, 85°C for 1000 hours

I see no harm in trying if you do not mind the hassle of removing the caps