[fmzip]

b0bb,

Do you have the manufacturer part numbers used in this mod handy? I think I will follow the lead and avoid I2s for the time being.

Without modification the LT3042 regulator board will open up the soundstage and the vocals will gain an increase in presence
Bass becomes deeper, most importantly the board will work in native DSD512 without hiccups and dropouts.

The board can be further rebuilt to improve its performance, in that form it handily beat my SU-1 over I2S
This uses OSCON polymers on the input filter, vishay low voltage schottky diodes and a tantalum polymer for output bypassed by a MLCC cap and rubycon acrylic caps

 

[b0bb]

If I go down the route of soldering the socket in for crystal swapping, does it ultimately need to then be removed? Do I also have to swap something else out for this mod with the socket? Attached are some photos for reference

No, it works ok
You will need adapters for the CCHD950x as these are SMD only.
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/cronus.aspx

Look towards the end of the page

 

[b0bb]

b0bb,

Do you have the manufacturer part numbers used in this mod handy? I think I will follow the lead and avoid I2s for the time being.

BOM here some of the supplier links may need updating
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/lks-audio-mh-da003.745032/post-12035366

 

[fmzip]

BOM here some of the supplier links may need updating
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/lks-audio-mh-da003.745032/post-12035366

Thanks b0bb!

Is it okay to use this Wima 10%
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2B051001N00KSSD?qs=sJjjjplDs9sPL29pY4Edmg==

instead of 5% variant?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2B051001N00JO00?qs=sJjjjplDs9vMG5HEvKlbLQ==

Also can this work
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/murata-electronics/GRJ32ER71E106KE11L/5321161

instead of this?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/963-EMK325B7106KNHT

Also, this one looks like a dog:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rubycon/16ST475MC14532/3719920

Is this the acceptable alternate?

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/rubycon/16MU475MC14532/1189-2518-1-ND/4969576




I think I've read close to 150 pages of this thread over the past few days and bookmarked 20+ pages.

In order of most important mods first, do you have handy a current top 10 list of mods that you would suggest? Is the clock swap still number 1 in your opinion?

You also mention "adapters" below, it's just one piece needed, or are these adapters are what is used to plug into the socket if trying different clocks? The socket for the board is then another part number? If I went Accusilicon instead, that's a thru hole part that would simply plug into the socket?

No, it works ok
You will need adapters for the CCHD950x as these are SMD only.
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/cronus.aspx

Look towards the end of the page

 

[fmzip]

No, it works ok
You will need adapters for the CCHD950x as these are SMD only.
http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/digital/cronus.aspx

Look towards the end of the page

Here's the copper wall.

Question, how did you perforate the copper like you did? Multiple drilling, one by one?

 

[fmzip]

Put the 3M and Fairite material on the the 3 ICs as suggested and also around the hdmi input and around one of the torids. What a difference in sound! Maybe that loose ground wasn’t helping matters either but boy it was a night a day difference across all genres. Classical, even Led Zeppelin could be played at high volumes without any fatigue. Upsampling to DSD 256 in Roon from the Ultradigital I2S may still be the way to go. Now I’m thinking the Accusilicon clock may be the better choice although the 950x intrigues me with the comment toward the McIntosh sound. I remember when I heard the 803s many years back on Macintosh, that to me was bliss! On the fence on bringing the sound forward...
What to do??

Ordering some 2 1/2 x 12 inch copper for the wall. I’m paying for it, Mexico isn’t

 

[b0bb]

Thanks b0bb!

Is it okay to use this Wima 10%
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2B051001N00KSSD?qs=sJjjjplDs9sPL29pY4Edmg==

instead of 5% variant?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/WIMA/MKS2B051001N00JO00?qs=sJjjjplDs9vMG5HEvKlbLQ==

Also can this work
https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/murata-electronics/GRJ32ER71E106KE11L/5321161

instead of this?
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/963-EMK325B7106KNHT

Also, this one looks like a dog:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/rubycon/16ST475MC14532/3719920

Is this the acceptable alternate?

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/rubycon/16MU475MC14532/1189-2518-1-ND/4969576




I think I've read close to 150 pages of this thread over the past few days and bookmarked 20+ pages.

In order of most important mods first, do you have handy a current top 10 list of mods that you would suggest? Is the clock swap still number 1 in your opinion?

You also mention "adapters" below, it's just one piece needed, or are these adapters are what is used to plug into the socket if trying different clocks? The socket for the board is then another part number? If I went Accusilicon instead, that's a thru hole part that would simply plug into the socket?

Use the specified part if still available.
The Murata alternate is NRND -->Obsolete.
The alternate rubycon is meant for SMD ovens, tinned area is too small for manual soldering.

You need adapters for the 950X if a socket is used, it can also be soldered directly no adapter needed.

 

[b0bb]

Put the 3M and Fairite material on the the 3 ICs as suggested and also around the hdmi input and around one of the torids. What a difference in sound! Maybe that loose ground wasn’t helping matters either but boy it was a night a day difference across all genres. Classical, even Led Zeppelin could be played at high volumes without any fatigue.

The sheets absorb RF noise energy, this should give you an idea of what to expect if the problem is stopped at the source.

Once that is done the, 3M and Fairite sheets do not add any further value.

 

[fmzip]

The sheets absorb RF noise energy, this should give you an idea of what to expect if the problem is stopped at the source.

Once that is done the, 3M and Fairite sheets do no add any further value.

Unfortunately that Rubycon is not available anywhere, would you happen to have a suggestion for an alternate? My soldered use microscopes for challenging situations, do you think it’s really not possible to hand solder the one I mentioned?

 

[MartinWT]

@b0bb I've lost track of the relative sound quality of the different recommended IV resistors, especially the Texas and Vishay. Please could you summarise your favourites and how they differ? What are used in the stock LKS?

 

[b0bb]

Unfortunately that Rubycon is not available anywhere, would you happen to have a suggestion for an alternate? My soldered use microscopes for challenging situations, do you think it’s really not possible to hand solder the one I mentioned?

Use the alternate Rubycon if you have trouble getting the one I listed.

You have very careful as the cap is an expensive piece of plastic.
They are big enough to work on without a microscope

 

[b0bb]

@b0bb I've lost track of the relative sound quality of the different recommended IV resistors, especially the Texas and Vishay. Please could you summarise your favourites and how they differ? What are used in the stock LKS?

I have always used the Vishay Metal Foil resistors for I/V duties, Texas Components is the manufacturer for the module.
LKS has experimented a lot with different resistors so the actual resistor depends on the version.
LKS used 0.5% Holco HP4 on my unit
https://hfc-fs.s3-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/holco_data_0.pdf


I have not experimented with different resistors as the Vishays have what I am looking for
1) Non inductive, the I/V on the 004 uses feedback, any inductive reactance will reduce high frequency feedback.
This is partly the reason why the 004 can sound bright.

2) Very low resistance change with temperature, the 004 runs a lot of current thru the resistor.
I did not want self heat effects to change the gain/transimpedance of the I/V (this causes artificial compression of the very loud passages)

3) Can be made to my specs at reasonable cost

 

[Xoverman]

Question, how did you perforate the copper like you did? Multiple drilling, one by one?

Yes, Multiple drilling, one by one

 

[piaseczek]

Finally got rid of the metallized mylar/polyester caps on the analog final/post filter. Yay!

Replaced with polyproplyene caps.
Black ones are Vishay KP1830 film/foil, blue ones are Kemet PHE426 metallized polypropylene

LKS used polypropylene for the analog post filter in the LKS003.
I was disappointed when they went with metallized mylar for the 004.

The problems this caused was predictable, transient smearing (kickdrums and cymbals), loss of top end control on highly compressed tracks and a diminished sound stage.

Improvements were as expected, namely the reversal of the above, no surprises here just predictable gains

I used components with a 1% tolerance to improve the consistency.




Wider shot of the mods



Original blue metallized mylar/polyester before mod

b0bb,
could you share the values of the blue capasitors? 10 x 33nF?
Thank you.

 

[b0bb]

b0bb,
could you share the values of the blue capasitors? 10 x 33nF?
Thank you.

4x33nF