If you are referring about my post I can say that both have the original drivers and boards as demonstrated by the pictures taken by Fitz when he worked on both of them since both had problem with the right driver.
I have a mid 4000 serial pair (I considered to be Bass Heavy). I started hearing distortion in the right channel so sent them to RWSoundSystems in Germany to have 2 brand new drivers added (They arrived a few weeks ago) . I was initially worried about the light bass and purchased a sub woofer to improve this area. This helped me see exactly what i was missing, the new drivers arnt as "warm sounding" as the old ones. They sound more precise and realistic to me. The only downside I'm experiencing so far is is a lack of impact on the bass. I think this will get better as the headphones burn in. In the end i realised i wasn't missing as much as i thought i was and took the sub woofer back. I used to have a very warm system of a Melos Amp, Copper Cables and Grado PS-1s. Initially i loved it and i really enjoyed listening but i decided the bass just didnt sound realistic and was colouring the music too much.
So i switched to a more neutral K1000 rig and it was exactly what i wanted. The newer drivers have taken a little more warmth out of my system and to me, its another improvement.
I'm happy with what I've got now. For the price i paid for the new drivers i could have almost bought another pair of Bass Heavy K1000s but providing i get a little more impact in the future, I'm happy i went for the newer model.
There are my opinions and my SAA cable and Amp might be complimentary to these new drivers which could be responsible for the good results. They really do sound great. I'll try and post pictures soon because they look slightly different to my older drivers. ie there are usually little wires on the inside and the outside of the drivers (visible after you've removed the grills). On my new pair there are only wires on the inside?
If you are referring about my post I can say that both have the original drivers and boards as demonstrated by the pictures taken by Fitz when he worked on both of them since both had problem with the right driver.
No I was not referring to your post,it was just to highlight the fact that by buying on serial numbers alone involves an element of risk.
Not everyone is open and forthright about the history of what they are selling,being that low serials fetch a premium price/faster sale etc there is a risk that a driver change would not be mentioned.
Fritz is well known for his knowledge of K1000's but others,me included would not know how to recognize different drivers etc.
Considering the popularity of the K1000 and the price of drivers maybe we can look forward to some Chinese bass heavy drivers in the future,such a shame to see such a phone slowly fade into oblivion because of a lack of parts.
So distortion in the drivers seems to be a common problem with the older, bass heavy drivers?
If that is the case I think I'll stick to my bass light one then.
If there is one thing that drives me crazy it's distortion.
I didn't get my old drivers back, i expected the working one to be sent back but it didn't happen. I contacted the company and was told both were binned. The one had a problem but i was also informed the left wasnt 100% so the technician binned both of them.
At 80 W class A I bet it's that hot. My Marantz SS class AB integrated which can be switched to class A (up to 30W I think) is cooking after an hour of use.
Too bet it's a DIY amp and not commercially available. I would have been interested for sure!
My Technics SU-V5 NewClass 'A' amp registers 50 w RMS per side with peak 100w per side. I usually use it in winter up here in Canada to reduce my heating bills.
So distortion in the drivers seems to be a common problem with the older, bass heavy drivers?
If that is the case I think I'll stick to my bass light one then.
If there is one thing that drives me crazy it's distortion.
I can't justify it at all, hence the question mark.
I did PM with someone selling a bass heavy version. He claimed several people asking if there wass bass distortion in one of the drivers. I never heard it with my bass light version and never was asked the question by potential buyers when I sold it. Add to that 03039174's post and it triggered the question for me. I thought it might be something common to the older type of drivers. Thus my question.
As a person who does not have a dog in this fight, I was curious about the measurements here. Frankly I don't see this any difference between the 2 plots. They are basically the same with some possible variation dues to what appears to be an imprecise system for placing the microphone in front of the driver
"microphone was placed very close to the driver (easier to consistently line it up that way)"
Old thread, but I have been away and found the thread while searching on the K1000 PCBs, and this post amuses me.
The variations between measurements due to microphone placement are nearly insignificant for my purposes here, due to the consistency of positioning it (generally no more than 1-2mm off from any other time) and . It would take fairly big changes in microphone placement for that to account for the difference, nevermind the fact that the curves were consistent across several measurements (I always take measurements again at least once after finishing, to make sure they agree with the original ones). While I no longer have a bass light K1000 to do measurements on, tonight I did do measurements on the filter PCB for a bass heavy pair so I can simulate it on the computer. I also happened to have a couple frequency response measurements I took with and without the PCB installed. When I took the no-PCB measurement and added the results of a simulation of the PCB to it, it almost perfectly matched the measurement with the PCB. It wouldn't match up like that if there was several dB variations between measurements.
Short version: I only want to present this forum with the most accurate information I can, and more care goes into the measurements than you might have assumed.
Thanks Miguel, but I don't think that's necessary. I compared my (acoustic) measurements for a very late production pair to the simulated filter, and while that didn't match exactly at first, if I tweaked the values within normal component tolerances, I was able to get it to match up. It's always possible they made some very minor changes to the values, but if they did is it isn't big enough to warrant dismantling another pair.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
