[morph2k4]

Dear lord, those things are hard to solder.  The cable is just a generic mogami mic cable with an amphenol plug and ALO HD800 connectors.  Not the cleanest Y joint, but I can live with it.  I finally figured out some good solutions to the T5P specific challenges.  
 
1.  Used HD800 connectors since mini xlr can't fit a nut on the inside of the cup to secure everything in place.
2.  Filed down the nut on the inside of the female connector so that it fits under the driver housing and the housing prevents it from rotating once assembled.
3.  Added washers to cover the ugly rectangular hole from the stock strain relief.
 
The only thing I still need to figure out is how to best strain relief the connectors on the cable.  I was thinking I could use some heat shrink that goes just under the back end of the connector, and then another piece over the outside of the connector.  Any suggestions about how to do a good strain relief would be greatly appreciated.  Those plugs are heavy!
 

 
Feel free to ask if you have any questions about the process on the T5P.  It is a bit of a pain to recable for a couple of reasons, but well worth it!

 

[PETEREK]

Nicely done! I love seeing a good detachable mod pulled off in style. I wish I ever had an opportunity to work with a set of HD800 connectors to give you some assistance, but those are some of the few I haven't dealt with yet. They look great! 

 

[Paul Graham]

Dear lord, those things are hard to solder. The cable is just a generic mogami mic cable with an amphenol plug and ALO HD800 connectors. Not the cleanest Y joint, but I can live with it. I finally figured out some good solutions to the T5P specific challenges.

1. Used HD800 connectors since mini xlr can't fit a nut on the inside of the cup to secure everything in place.
2. Filed down the nut on the inside of the female connector so that it fits under the driver housing and the housing prevents it from rotating once assembled.
3. Added washers to cover the ugly rectangular hole from the stock strain relief.

The only thing I still need to figure out is how to best strain relief the connectors on the cable. I was thinking I could use some heat shrink that goes just under the back end of the connector, and then another piece over the outside of the connector. Any suggestions about how to do a good strain relief would be greatly appreciated. Those plugs are heavy!



Feel free to ask if you have any questions about the process on the T5P. It is a bit of a pain to recable for a couple of reasons, but well worth it!

I have a question in regards the female HD800 terminals. What is the outer diameter on the housing please in mm's? I'm in the midst of a project of my own and hoping they will fit my SA5K's.

 

[PETEREK]

I have a question in regards the female HD800 terminals. What is the outer diameter on the housing please in mm's? I'm in the midst of a project of my own and hoping they will fit my SA5K's.

They're too wide man. I couldn't even fit the 3.5mm connectors into them that I use on my Fostex TH-___ detachable modifications. The plastic is pretty brittle as well, so I don't recommend forcing anything into them. The route I went was pigtails for a couple people that requested detachable cables on their SA5K's.

 

[Paul Graham]

Thanks for the reply mate! After further inspection over the last few hours I whole heartedly agree! I see two options in front of me...
Either Pigtails as above ( Which looks awesome by the way! ) OR I do have some MMCX connectors ( Male & Female ) on the way to me.
At first I was bummed as I ordered the female hd800 terminals, But then realized I can use them in my DT770 Premium cups, So nothing wasted
While you're here mate, Is there a special way to solder the SA5K drivers if I want them to be able to be used in a balanced config? If so, a pic or diagram would be very helpful thank you.
PS, Your Cable you did for my Senn-Grado's......Still performing spectacularly!