is there any way to replace the UE 600vi cable
May 11, 2012 at 9:37 AM Post #2 of 10
UE600's cable isn't user replaceable. The easiest way is to contact UE / Logitech and see if they you let you send it back for repair since it has 2 years warranty. If it is out-of-warranty, then they might let you trade in for a new pair at a lower cost.
 
May 11, 2012 at 9:40 AM Post #3 of 10
That's a damn problem when their mid range headphones have the same cable and strain reliefs (while, effectively no strain relief) than low end models. It has the same cable and strain relief as the UE200....
 
May 11, 2012 at 10:05 AM Post #4 of 10
It is the same cable from UE100 to UE700 actually. They adapted this cable in 2010 on almost all their IEM beside TF10.
 
May 12, 2012 at 12:02 PM Post #6 of 10
hmmm .. thats really sad :frowning2:
I think I'm gonna contact logitech and see if it could be repaired coz it's still in warranty.
ClieOS & ProjectDenz ,, Thanx guys so much for your help ..
Have a great day!
 
Oct 20, 2014 at 4:47 PM Post #7 of 10
Hi guys,

Sorry to jump on this thread with my first post but I have the same problem. I'm trying to repair mine, however, so I've bought everything I need including a new 4 post trrs jack.

The problem is, the jack I cut off is a 4 post trrs jack, but I have five wires. One copper (ground?) then a red, blue, black and green. So there are only 4 points that I can solder. The original jack was moulded and it isn't possible to strip back and figure out what is soldered where.

Anyone got any ideas about which wire is soldered where?

Many thanks in advance.
 
Oct 21, 2014 at 7:14 AM Post #8 of 10
Get a multimeter. Easy way is to do continuity testing on the jack you cut off - expose the wires on that and see which colour goes to which part of the jack plug.
 
If not look for two pairs that have resistance around 50 ohms. Those should be your two drivers. The last wire should have really high resistance between it and another cable, which goes down to 0 when you press the headset button. Now you have a partial idea. Then hook up your wires to a plug (temporarily) and plug it into a music player, and play music through them. See what combination works.
 
Oct 31, 2016 at 6:49 PM Post #10 of 10
Google brought me here but I had to do a lot of testing to figure out how to do get a new jack on my 600vi. However, I have now successfully fixed them, sound is good and the remote is working well etc, so for posterity - and to save others the hassle - here is the colour coding in the cable of my UE 600vi.
 
A note beforehand. The wires in the 600vi cable are coated, i.e. each wire has a thin, insulting coating over it which you can't really see but needs to come off in order to make a reliable connection (but only where you want to solder!). I'm no expert in doing this but I was successful by prepping each colour wire and then - with tweezers - holding the end of it submerged in a pool of hot, molten solder for around a minute. This burns off the coating and tins the wire without oxidising it. Practice on a cutoff and you'll soon get the hang of it, you can check quickly and plunge it back in etc. I read elsewhere to set your soldering iron to 300C. Mine doesn't have a temp control so I can't comment on that.
 
Initially it looks like there are 5 coated wires inside the cable however inside the copper coloured wire is another red wire (albeit slightly lighter, almost 'coral'); I'll refer to this wire as 'coral' from here on for clarity. You'll need to separate these two (copper outer and coral inner) and twist the coper back into a single wire; then you'll have 6 wires; red, green, blue, copper (clear coated wire), coral and a dark brown (almost black) one. The UE 600vi have separate channel grounds and they correspond as follows.
 
LEFT CHANNEL POSITIVE - BLUE
LEFT CHANNEL NEGATIVE - GREEN
RIGHT CHANNEL POSITIVE - RED
RIGHT CHANNEL NEGATIVE - DARK BROWN/BLACK
MIC - CORAL/SLIGHTLY LIGHTER RED
MIC GROUND/COMMON GROUND - COPPER (CLEAR COATED WIRE)
 
For a the vast majority of mobile devices with a 4-pole TRRS connection (CITA / AHJ, which includes iPhones and most modern Android devices) that means the following:
 
 Tip - BLUE - L+
Ring 1 - RED - R+
Ring 2 - GREEN + DARK BROWN/BLACK + COPPER - L-,R-,Mic Gnd (i.e. 3 wires to Ring 2)
Sleeve - CORAL - Mic
 
I hope this is helpful to someone and saves time/effort. Regards, Ben
 
EDIT: 
 
Check your device, you can start here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_(audio)#TRRS_standards

Some devices will be OMTP rather than CITA/AHJ in which case you need to swap Ring 2 and Sleeve connections when soldering.
 

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