[el_matt0]

just to quickly "confirm" that I've learned my lesson here today. Can someone just verify I've selected the correct rotary selector for my needs?
Goldpoint Selector Switches
From that page, I'd want the 3 pole (3P), 4 position one, right? And if I only wanted 3 inputs, I could limit it to 3 positions? This can all of course be done on a single deck right, I can forego the need to think about the need for a multiple deck switch?

 

[akione]

Yes, I think you're on the right lines, Matt.

The 3 position one would allow 4 inputs with L/R/Led switched and ground shared.
The 4 position one would allow 3 inputs, but you could also switch the grounds if you REALLY wanted to.

 

[el_matt0]

cool, thanks yea, forgot to mention that I was intending to not switch the grounds at all, since it sounds a bit unnecessary for single ended usage.

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by akione /img/forum/go_quote.gif The 3 position one would allow 4 inputs with L/R/Led switched and ground shared. The 4 position one would allow 3 inputs, but you could also switch the grounds if you REALLY wanted to.

I think it's worth mentioning that akione's comment are about the 4P3T and 3P4T Goldpoint switches listed at the page linked by el_matt0... taken alone without that context, it could be ambiguous and confusing.

 

[akione]

Quote:

Originally Posted by amb /img/forum/go_quote.gif I think it's worth mentioning that akione's comment are about the 4P3T and 3P4T Goldpoint switches listed at the page linked by el_matt0... taken alone without that context, it could be ambiguous and confusing.

LOL.

Yes, it does seem a bit weird reading it back, now.

 

[Navyblue]

What would happen if all the grounds are simply joined together without the switch?

 

[amb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Navyblue /img/forum/go_quote.gif What would happen if all the grounds are simply joined together without the switch?

Nothing bad would happen. "Ground" in this case is merely a "zero-volt" reference for all signals, in an unbalanced amp they should all be connected together.

 

[Navyblue]

That's what I thought, so I guess for the OP 3 poles switch is good enough (left, right, and LED) and 4 poles are unnecessary?

 

[amb]

Right.

 

[Navyblue]

Thanks.

Sorry, just realised that it has been mentioned in the previous page. I thought I read the whole thread but somehow I missed such a huge chunk of text, time for bed I guess.

 

[el_matt0]

its ok navyblue, my brain pretty much felt like that throughout this entire thread yesterday until several helpful members clarified things for me. Anyhow, just to cap things off, yes, I wont be switching the grounds since it seems largely un-needed. As such, I will be ordering the 3 pole, 4 position, 1 deck rotary selector switch from goldpoint, and with those 3 poles, I'll be switching my L, R, and LED.

I think I've pretty much got everything covered minus one thing, in terms of powering the LEDs, can I get some suggestions? As stated earlier, I want to run all the + leads from whatever PSU I select, through appropriately rated LED's for brightness, to the + legs of the LED, then its the - leads of each of the LED's that I want to "switch" between the single common - leading back to the power supply right? So if I'm correct, what I'm visualizing in my head is basically a small power supply of some sort with 3x V+ leads going out to the resistors then to the LEDs then to the switch. From the "common" section of that pole of the switch, I'd have a single negative lead running back to the V- of that power supply. Am I right?

At the same time, what would be some good recommendations for the PSU. This switchbox is going to be inside a single ended b22 (2 separate chassis for PSU and boards), most likely I think with whatever PSU I select in the same shared chassis as the sigma22, and I'll run the V+ and V- leads to the selector switch in the second chassis via the umbilical cable (Assuming that would be acceptable). Would something like a tread work...or....? That was just a guess, I've never built something like this before so...I need some hints.

 

[Navyblue]

If you are running LEDs, I guess the Walmarts would do? Or even batteries as long as the LED is not uber bright?

 

[amb]

el_matt0, here is what you do:

You could also reverse the polarity of the LEDs and the V+ and V- connections. Same difference.

V+ and V- refer to the +30V and -30V outputs of the σ22. You should use a 1/2W rated 22K resistor for longevity (even though the actual power dissipation is about 0.15W). If it's too bright, then increase the resistance.

EDIT: If you will be using the ε22 backplane board, then you don't even need the 22K resistor. There is already an LED output connector on the board and a pair of 10K resistors. Just run the output through the switch and LEDs like this:

 

[DouglasQuaid]

Considering your level of experience, I suggest an external power supply (a simple wallwart or perhaps one of those universal ones you can pick up pretty cheap and has 20 different plugs). Just buy one, get a fitting jack, run the lines to the switch and ground as previously discussed ad-nauseum.

You could always go with batteries, but I would suggest something a bit more long-term and less annoying if you plan to use this thing everyday instead of just when you're ABing equipment.

 

[el_matt0]

thanks AMB. I will be using an e22, so thats very helpful of you (I'm guessing you got my order !). I'm a total newb when it comes to interpreting schematics, but I'm going to pour over these and figure it out - looks like even I should be able to figure these basic ones out! Only thing I need clarification on from the lower schematic is, the sideways triangles are LEDs right? Does the line on the right side of the triangle represent which direction the negative lead goes? I basically just need to "split" that LED output "1" on the e22 to the 3 negative leads of the LEDs, then the common connection from that pole of the switch would connect to the "2" on the e22. Is it as simple as that???