[el_matt0]

I'm just wondering if theres any way that you can easily rig up LED's to the front panel on something like a switchbox that uses just a basic rotary selector switch in order to indicate which of the inputs/outputs is active. Or does this require programming a separate circuit/board? I'd want 3 inputs, one output, so basically im just wonderin if theres any way to have 3 LEDs on the front indicating which of those inputs is selected

 

[BrianDonegan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by el_matt0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm just wondering if theres any way that you can easily rig up LED's to the front panel on something like a switchbox that uses just a basic rotary selector switch in order to indicate which of the inputs/outputs is active. Or does this require programming a separate circuit/board? I'd want 3 inputs, one output, so basically im just wonderin if theres any way to have 3 LEDs on the front indicating which of those inputs is selected

You will need a power source, which is the biggest change if your selector is purely passive.

Just run V+ to your LED's +legs through a resistor sized for brightness, then use unused poles on your switch to send ground to each LED -leg.

Check out this diagram for wiring the Darwin: http://www.twistedpearaudio.com/docs/Control_Wiring.pdf You can use the same idea for a regular switch.

 

[el_matt0]

bear with, as im a bit new to using and wiring up rotary switches, and will probably have to order one and play with the multimeter to fully understand how the continuity works. What I want to do is switch 3 inputs to 1 output, just single ended (so L, R, shared G?). From my primitive understanding, for this at minimum I'd need a 1 deck 3 pole rotary selector, correct? Would I just need 1 additional pole in order to switch the ground (-) for the LED to whichever input source is currently selected? Ie - would a 1 deck 4 pole switch do the job for me? Or for a purpose such as this (having LEd indicators) do I need to add a second deck (something like a 2 deck, 3 pole/deck).

 

[nikongod]

stuff removed for clarity...
Quote:

Originally Posted by el_matt0 /img/forum/go_quote.gif ... for this at minimum I'd need a 1 deck 3 pole rotary selector, correct? Would I just need 1 additional pole in order to switch the ground (-) for the LED to whichever input source is currently selected? ....

NO!
You do NOT want a 1-deck/3-pole.

If you want to switch the grounds but dont care about the LED, you want a 3-deck/3-pole.

If you want to add a LED display to that, you should get a 4-deck/3-pole.

some MFR's put 2 separate switches on one deck. the key is that you really have 3 or 4 separate switches.

 

[el_matt0]

im a bit confused. so if each "deck" corresponds to one of the signals, ie since I want a 4 deck selector, one would be L, one R, one shared G, and one for the LEDs - correct? What I'm confused about is the need for 3 poles, what determines the need for 3 poles versus 1 or 2 or 3 or 4? I think I'm clear how we arrived at deciding on the fact I'd need 4 decks for my intended purpose, but I'm totally lost as to how we arrived at 3 poles. I was speaking with someone this morning who said that I should be able to do a 3 in / 1 out stereo selector on a 1 deck 3 pole selector.....maybe they were mistaken? If anyone could clarify, itd be much appreciated

 

[BrianDonegan]

I believe the correct terminology is 4-Pole, 3-Position switch. Whether there are muliple decks depends on the make of the switch. For example, the switches in the Darwin diagram are a 2-Pole, 6-Postion switch and a 4-Pole, 3-Position switch. Both are single deck.

So, If you want shared grounds, you want a 3-position, 3-pole switch. For switched grounds, 3-position, 4 pole (which you are more likely to find, and will allow you to do it either way).

 

[el_matt0]

sigh, well its STARTING to make a bit more sense, but still im definitely not 100%. So what I want is I think to just have shared ground since thats simpler and it should be fine for single ended usage. I also do want to switch an LED indicator as well though, since it seems like it wouldn't be a ton of additional trouble. So, for shared ground WITHOUT the LEDs, I'd want a 3-position/deck, 3-pole switch (or 4 poles)? Whatabout for with LEDs, would I then want a 4-position, 3 pole switch? "Position" seems to be slightly confusing terminology, as to me that implies how many different selection options the switch would have. I'm still a bit confused also as to what each of the decks and poles corresponds to! Does L, R, and G, correspond to the 3 decks, or the 3 poles? If perse I wanted to switch some balanced sources instead, with separate grounds, you said then I'd use a 3-position, 4 pole switch, which leads me to believe that each of the "poles" corresponds to one phase of the signal (L+,R+,L-,R-) - or in my case simply just L+,R+, and G for a 3 pole switch? Is that correct? If that is correct, then why the 3 positions/decks, because 3 obviously wasnt just an arbitrary number....jees i feel like banging my head into a wall...hope this becomes clearer soon

 

[Uncle Erik]

Don't make it too complicated. Think about this as separate switches that are all turned by one knob at the same time.

Right signal goes on one switch.

Left signal goes on one switch.

Ground goes on one switch.

LEDs go on one switch.

Three positions for each of the sources.

Stack those together and put one knob on it.

 

[DouglasQuaid]

Assuming you don't tie all the grounds together, you need to switch the left signal, the right signal, and ground. That's three poles (one pole per signal you need to switch simultaneously). You said you had three input signals, making three positions to switch to(referred to by part manufacturers as Throws). That's where you get the 3pole3throw switch.

Now, if you really want to do your LEDs, you tie them all across resistors to a single ground and you set your switch to toggle 5v between which one you want to glow for its respective signal. That's where you get your fourth pole.

 

[el_matt0]

ok well the explanations make alot of sense on their own, but when i put the last two posts together they seem to contradict? douglasQuaid seems to be implying that what I want for my purposes if I want to have the LEDs, I'd need a 4 pole switch right, but how many "positions" or decks? Whereas unkleerik seems to imply that each "deck" should correspond to L, R, G, and LED, therefore I want a 4 deck/position switch - but he makes no mention of the poles? Or is 3 poles what he meant by 3 "positions" for each source? I'm confused because Erik seems to clarify the matter of the decks/positions, but makes no mention of how many poles I'd want, whereas Douglas seems to say that Left, Right, and G, should correspond to the number of poles, and not the number of "decks" as Erik stated. HELP!

 

[breakfastchef]

el_matt0: for your consideration, below is a 4X2 passive switch design I recently built. Perhaps the astute forum members with way more technical knowledge can refer to this diagram and help you design your passive device with LEDs. The original design switched all the grounds, but i was having hum problems. This design ties all the grounds to the case. I still have hum, for what it is worth.

 

[DouglasQuaid]

Erik never said you needed 4 positions, he said you needed three. I also specifically said you needed 3 positions(throws) and explained why. Nikongod's intentions were correct, but his terminology was wrong. Look at my post again, read it verbatim to yourself aloud (reading in silent often allows for switched words and added misinterpretation), and don't stop until you've convinced yourself that you need a 4p3t (4pole 3throw/position) switch with the LEDs and 3p3t without. If I had a scanner and wasn't too lazy to break out my AutoCAD, I'd even make you a drawing on exactly how to wire it in both circumstances.

 

[el_matt0]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DouglasQuaid /img/forum/go_quote.gif Erik never said you needed 4 positions, he said you needed three. I also specifically said you needed 3 positions(throws) and explained why. Nikongod's intentions were correct, but his terminology was wrong. Look at my post again, read it verbatim to yourself aloud (reading in silent often allows for switched words and added misinterpretation), and don't stop until you've convinced yourself that you need a 4p3t (4pole 3throw/position) switch with the LEDs and 3p3t without. If I had a scanner and wasn't too lazy to break out my AutoCAD, I'd even make you a drawing on exactly how to wire it in both circumstances.

KK. Im 99% sure I get and fully understand everything you've said pretty well. I guess the one thing still confusing me really is what exactly each separate "deck" does. I fully get that each "pole" corresponds to 1 "thing" that I want to switch - or in my case, I need for because I want to switch L, R, G, and LED - correct? Whats throwing me off is the introduction of multiple "decks". I don't really see why I wouldn't be able to get the job done with a single deck switch with 3 positions and 4 poles! Or am I totally fuddled, and a deck is the same as a pole (ie I could do it without the LEDs on a 3 deck 3 position switch, but for including the LEDs I'd need a 4th deck, still 3 positions?).

EDIT: yes its slightly the mixed up terminology by Nikongod earlier that is messing me up. So, I need the 4th pole if I want to use LEDs, but I still don't really have any idea what the # of "decks" corresponds to. If my understanding up till this point is correct (in that each L, R , G, LED, would correspond to 1 of the 4 poles), then I just don't understand the need for anything beyond a single deck rotary switch, but when I suggested using a single deck rotary, Nikongod said a big NO!

 

[amb]

The "deck" is largely irrelevant in this discussion because it doesn't matter. A deck is simply a layer of the switch, and depending on the make and model, may contain one or more poles. It's just a physical construction aspect of the whole switch assembly.

Each pole is a separate switch, all switches in the assembly are operated by a common shaft. So, if you want to switch all of the following (left, right, ground, and LED), then you need a 4-pole switch. If you want a common, unswitched ground, then you need one less pole (there is really no need to switch the ground). If you don't need LED indication, then it's one less pole yet.

The number of "throws" (= positions) should equal the number of sources you want to switch amongst.

 

[el_matt0]

Finally I got it. So forget about the whole deck notion until it actually comes up with a specific make / model. (at which point I'll likely plague you all with some more questions

). Thanks everyone so much for the explanations and also for being patient.