magicalmouse
500+ Head-Fier
Thank you that confirms my reservations and i have now decided that the red filters are ideal with both my ex2xr and ex3xr - etymotic red are easily available in the UK.
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If you still love Etymotic ER4, this is the thread for you...
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If your using a dac/amp with PEQ, I don't see the point since I use a 6db 100Hz low shelf on the ER4S/ER4SR on it. Since I listen a lot of music with bass too, It sounds like a ER2XR bass with the clarity/speed of the BA ER4.
SilverEars
Headphoneus Supremus
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Got a question regarding ER3 to 4 impedance adapters. It's been said that Ety uses 23 ohms specifically for ER4, and somebody pointed out 20 - 100 ohms range for the impedance value should work as well.
The reason for the addition of 23 ohms specific is that ER3 has 22 ohms in the line, and ER4 has 45 ohms in the line. The difference is 23 ohms. But, why can anything in the range from 20 - 100 added to ER3's 22 ohms can be used? That's what I'm trying to figure out.
My question would be, is there any differences on the response when using other than 23 ohms? Was there any measurements confirming there is or there isn't much differences? Link them if you recall them.
It's in regards to this posting. https://www.head-fi.org/threads/if-...-thread-for-you.538615/page-757#post-13938835
The reason for the addition of 23 ohms specific is that ER3 has 22 ohms in the line, and ER4 has 45 ohms in the line. The difference is 23 ohms. But, why can anything in the range from 20 - 100 added to ER3's 22 ohms can be used? That's what I'm trying to figure out.
My question would be, is there any differences on the response when using other than 23 ohms? Was there any measurements confirming there is or there isn't much differences? Link them if you recall them.
It's in regards to this posting. https://www.head-fi.org/threads/if-...-thread-for-you.538615/page-757#post-13938835
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Check this out: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/if-...is-is-the-thread-for-you.538615/post-12657244.
30 ohms and 100 ohms look too much to be ER4. But I also don't know what kind of 23-ohm resistor @csglinux is using until the result is very close to ER4. I haven't found a suitable 23-ohm impedance adapter unless a custom-built
SilverEars
Headphoneus Supremus
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Didn't somebody post a link to a custom cable with the precise impedance within it? But then again, with the Ety ER4SR/XR on sale at Adorama for such a low price. Is it even worth it to get ER3SR/XR and that cable which probably is fairly pricy since custom made? Also, the wrong value of impedance adapter will deviate the response somewhat as what you expect from added effects of impedance. I guess it comes down to how precisely close you want to be to the ER4 response, and is it worth even using the impedance adapter if the response isn't precisely ER4's(Given that there is no 23 adaptors sold)? That is unless you can make a 23 ohms one yourself?
Long ago, I used to have a ER4P (Which sounds to me like the ER3 now) and didn't get a ER4S. It's was due to the idea of ER4P being more flexable of impedance adapter applied or not. If I wanted a brighter response, I just add the impedance value.
The resistors used in the Ety, are they the tiny SMD resistors?
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Even though the response is the same, I believe the sound will not be the same due to the different drivers, cables, and resistor positions between ER4 and ER3.
Yes, for some people on a budget choosing the ER3 + impedance adapter to get as close to the ER4 as possible is a great option to save money.
If you have to buy an expensive cable that has the right response, then I would prefer ER4 because after all the drivers and resistor positions are different so it will not be the same as ER4 when compared carefully.
I own an ER3SE + 75-ohm impedance adapter. Are ordering a custom 23-ohm impedance adapter to see how it responds differently. Unfortunately, I don't have ER4 to compare directly. Some people who compared say there are differences in detail between ER3 + resistor and ER4. Of course, ER4 is better.
As @JohnYang1997 said, ER + resistor not "=" ER4, but "~".
magicalmouse
500+ Head-Fier
Still looking for an ex2/ex4 after market cable available in the uk - any ideas
or alternatively a plug-in adaptor to allow any mmcx cable to be used?
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or alternatively a plug-in adaptor to allow any mmcx cable to be used?
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But every chart has showed It can be EQ'd away with a 4db boost at 7Khz with the Q at 4. Etymotic tunes the BA ER4/ER3 by using resistors, It pretty much how the ER4PT with the ER4S adaptor works, and you can even EQ the ER4S sound if you want a 22 ~ 27 ohm ER4S/SR on a ER4P & ER3SE. The Etymotic ER4B should sound flat at 7KHz with the extra treble boost of 5db that starts at 4KHz, despite there still being a dip by 1.8db going the few charts i can find.
With the EQ that dent posted few pages ago pretty fixes the mids/treble of the ER4S/SR. I'm not keen on the bass boost or the XR versions since with a very deep fit the large flanges it sounds really full and lightning fast like a planar.
It adds harshness though because of the ear canal interaction near 9K (I also get a slight 11K peak as well with the "proper" fit). Also, in my experience, at least with the ER4XR, the drivers don't seem to respond that well to bass EQs (the driver can distort quite easily).
Sorry if I'm treading on really old ground, but I did try a couple searches to no avail...
What are some of y'all doing to "mod" your ER4x to differentiate between Right & Left ear piece? I'd like to do something so I could go by touch alone...was thinking maybe (properly-sized) silicone O-ring(s) around one of the ear pieces.
What are some of y'all doing to "mod" your ER4x to differentiate between Right & Left ear piece? I'd like to do something so I could go by touch alone...was thinking maybe (properly-sized) silicone O-ring(s) around one of the ear pieces.
OspreyAndy
500+ Head-Fier
In my case I use red heatshrink on the right side MMCX connector. Visually it is easy to notice and also blindly I can feel the heatshrink where the left side will be absent of anything. As for the drivers I don't care which side plugs where, they are certified to be equally similar
DatClampTho
Head-Fier
I think someone along the line in this thread pointed out that the R and L on the connectors face toward you when inserting, and since the lettering is raised, you can feel for its presence to know which side is which. If between my fingers I feel one bumpy side and one smooth side of the connector, well, the bumpy side goes toward the back of my head.
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I would never recommending modding an earphone under warranty. And if I did, I certainly wouldn't mention that one can fill in the laser etching on the earpiece housing with sharpie. Apply it reasonably carefully and wipe off the excess with your finger. It might even be removable from the etch later with a bit of carefully applied alcohol on a cotton swap. Not that anybody would do it in the first place.
On the ER4XR model that I may or may not have marked, I theoretically filled in just the XR portion of the etch.
CK Moustache
100+ Head-Fier
I do nothing - but agree that the new ER4/3/2 series IEMs' sides are less easy to indicate compared to my ER-4S which have a large red dot as side indicator on the right hand side's connector.
But a small red rubber band or o-ring (similar to what Logitech did on the UE900S' cable compared to the UE900) sounds like a good idea. For myself, if I were to modify them for easier recognisability (after all, I still find the side indicators, although not as easily as I'd like to when the environmental lighting is rather dim), I would probably just put a little strap of electrical tape around one or both ear pieces, connectors or cables.
I also do this. Very easy to do even when the lights are off. Of course, there is no need to make any modifications.
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