[gychang]

I have 2 channel amplifier (amp32), alll ready to sing in a brand new case. I am pretty handy with mdf and plywood but have not ventured into aluminum/bronz work.

I have seen very nice case very fancy as attached. If u want to show off your case let's see them so I can get some ideas.

gychang

 

[gychang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gychang /img/forum/go_quote.gif I have 2 channel amplifier (amp32), alll ready to sing in a brand new case. gychang

attached is a nice one.

gychang

 

[luckypictures]

Wow. That actually looks simple enough for me to make.

You've got a world of options. Hammond makes cases that you can find at some of the parts dealers in the DIY stickies.

Unless you have a milling machine, I wouldn't recommend working with metal. Otherwise, you're left to using screws and pop rivets. A brake/bender is a handy thing to have as well. If you have those, have at it.

Maybe consider repurposing an object. I don't know if you have any other hobbies, or collect antiques, or what have you, but personally, i LOVE to repurpose objects. Things that may be cool in their own right make great project housings.

Anyway, good luck. I'm going to look for the schematics on that amp now.

 

[gychang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by luckypictures /img/forum/go_quote.gif Wow. That actually looks simple enough for me to make.

I wonder where one would get legs like that attached photo?

gychang

 

[Blooze]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gychang /img/forum/go_quote.gif I wonder where one would get legs like that attached photo? gychang

Look for long, speaker isolation spikes. That's what they look like to me.

 

[luckypictures]

WINE CORK!

They're wine corks. From gift sets you can get. I have a few laying around here and there. No clue where they are, but they're identical.

I've been given bar sets from target, walmart, etc around the holidays, and that's where they came from. I've seen a lot at thrift stores as well.

Just at thought, I've been wanting to build something to put THESE onto for awhile. I figure it'd be great for isolation on high end CD players/turntables. Not to mention look good if the design is right.

 

[d-cee]

completely cover it in hot melt glue

 

[luckypictures]

Quote:

Originally Posted by d-cee /img/forum/go_quote.gif completely cover it in hot melt glue

Nicccceeeee.

Don't forget a few LED's to light up your now semi-opaque mound.

 

[gychang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by luckypictures /img/forum/go_quote.gif WINE CORK! They're wine corks. I've been given bar sets from target, walmart, etc around the holidays, and that's where they came from. I've seen a lot at thrift stores as well.

thanks, indeed looking at the some wine bottle stopper, looks identical. Some seem high priced for wine officienatos. Have to look around the local target store...

gychang

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by d-cee /img/forum/go_quote.gif completely cover it in hot melt glue

Has to have glitter in it, to enhance the sound.

 

[dcheming]

I'm currently building an AMP6 board as well as a case for a friend. I didn't want to cop out and use a Hammond project box, but I only have a limited amount of tools to fabricate things from scratch. Plus I live in an apartment so I can't use super loud tools anyways. So I came up with an easy to build design using materials available from Home Depot. The front and back panels are 2" x 1/8" aluminum and the wood pieces are 1.5" x 1.5" red oak. I used threaded inserts in the wood to allow nice stainless socket head cap screws to attach the panels. The bottom is 1/16" aluminum from a hobby shop. I spaced it 3/16" from the oak to give better airflow since it will be the heatsink and also to give some more clearance height for the board. I'll post pics of the finished inside in my T-Amp thread when I get a chance.

 

[gychang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcheming /img/forum/go_quote.gif So I came up with an easy to build design using materials available from Home Depot. The front and back panels are 2" x 1/8" aluminum and the wood pieces are 1.5" x 1.5" red oak. I used threaded inserts in the wood to allow nice stainless socket head cap screws to attach the panels. The bottom is 1/16" aluminum from a hobby shop. I spaced it 3/16" from the oak to give better airflow since it will be the heatsink and also to give some more clearance height for the board. I'll post pics of the finished inside in my T-Amp thread when I get a chance.

This is great!, u have given me several ideas, aluminum panel is a great idea, since HD is nearby... like to see the final product.

gychang

 

[Blooze]

Quote:

Originally Posted by luckypictures /img/forum/go_quote.gif WINE CORK!

Sure enough! I didn't even think about those being wine corks. I haven't had a drink in 11 years so speaker spikes were the only thing I could relate to.

 

[gychang]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcheming /img/forum/go_quote.gif The front and back panels are 2" x 1/8" aluminum and the wood pieces are 1.5" x 1.5" red oak. I used threaded inserts in the wood to allow nice stainless socket head cap screws to attach the panels. The bottom is 1/16" aluminum from a hobby shop. I spaced it 3/16" from the oak to give better airflow since it will be the heatsink and also to give some more clearance height for the board. I'll post pics of the finished inside in my T-Amp thread when I get a chance.

I meant to ask u, how did u cut the aluminum?, I assume regular drill can be used for the holes.

can I ask u where u got the screws, that blend in so well?

gychang

 

[dcheming]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gychang /img/forum/go_quote.gif I meant to ask u, how did u cut the aluminum?, I assume regular drill can be used for the holes. can I ask u where u got the screws, that blend in so well? gychang

I used my new toy:

The Stanley 20-800 miter saw. I then trued the edges with a flat file followed by 220 and 320 grit sandpaper to get rid of the cut marks.

Yeah, I used a hand drill to do everything. When working with aluminum I always use masking tape, digital calipers, and a 0.3mm mechanical pencil for the layout work. I took a tiny little slot screwdriver and grinded the tip to a sharp point and I use it to precisely mark the center of where I want to drill. Once I have the spot marked with a little indention I use an automatic center punch to turn it into a little crater. That little crater keeps a 1/16" drill bit from wondering and actually gives pretty dam good accuracy. Then of course I just work my way up drill sizes to get the size I need.

The screws are stainless steel 1/4"-20 x 1" button head socket cap screws from Home Depot. The threaded inserts are from HD too. Here's one being screwed into a piece of oak: