I haven't read of anyone doing it. I don't have a system that is good to lift the pins of chip like that. I have done it but it is so easy to lift the traces that when you do, it just isn't fun any longer. If you have the right equipment though try it and let us know what you think. The D12 is coming out with dual dacs on the 25th of this month.
Thanks. I do realized it will be quite messy... but, who knows ... if there are some brave souls/head-fi hackers already done it, such as the madwolf who replaced the USB interface chip, PCM2906 to PCM2906B.
What I would like is a portable DAC only from iBasso, like a D12 but without an amp section. I'm currently using my D10 as a portable DAC feeding my TTVJ hybrid or Arrow amp.
I have one. It has two dacs and is about 3 or 4 cm shorter than the D10. It was ordered by Ryuzoh from iBasso. It is a very good sounding unit but I haven't seen Ryuzoh selling them lately. It has optical and USB input.
I have one. It has two dacs and is about 3 or 4 cm shorter than the D10. It was ordered by Ryuzoh from iBasso. It is a very good sounding unit but I haven't seen Ryuzoh selling them lately. It has optical and USB input.
I just picked up a pair of TLE2141's and placed them on a brown dog adapter. Does anyone know
how to put these into Class-A mode? I searched around and didn't find anything.
You have to cut two legs off the opamps and connect with with a resister. I can't remember which two but I would recommending pm HiFlight. He can give you more exact details on the matter.
I just picked up a pair of TLE2141's and placed them on a brown dog adapter. Does anyone know
how to put these into Class-A mode? I searched around and didn't find anything.
If they are DIP configuration opamps, solder a SMD 2.2k resistor between pins 6 & 7 on each opamp. If they are SOIC opamps, you need to first mount them on SOIC>DIP adapters then solder the resistor between the #6 & 7 pins on the adapters. You may need to file down the Browndog adpapters as they are larger than the adapters used in the D10.
Took my first shot at changing the opamps from the stock to the AD8656 with dummy buffers and really enjoying the new sound signature. I'm finding less sibilance and overall warmer sound compared to the stock opamps. I'm also noticing a slight reverb that resembles a tube sound to me. Have others noticed this difference? Headphones are Denon d7000 and ATH700.
That is the real fun of the D10 and 12 and a few other amps. I prefer the 8616 to the 8656. Yes, with certain combinations I have more of a tube quality, that is often more 3D, as compared to standard SS sound.
Took my first shot at changing the opamps from the stock to the AD8656 with dummy buffers and really enjoying the new sound signature. I'm finding less sibilance and overall warmer sound compared to the stock opamps. I'm also noticing a slight reverb that resembles a tube sound to me. Have others noticed this difference? Headphones are Denon d7000 and ATH700.
interesting...I purchased mine used and I'm the third owner so maybe one of the previous owners had changed the opamp. I can't remember what I took out of the L/R, but the buffers that i took out were definitely not dummies. I'll have to check when I get home from work. If what you say is true, I guess I've been missing the stock sound =).
I can't remember what were the original opamps in the D10 were but I do know the 8656 and dummy buffer were one of the alternatives to the stock opamps that came with the opamps kit.
Just swapped out the smaller 470uF 16V ASF Nippon Chemi-cons for the 220uF 6.3V NX Black Gates. I asked a co-worker in the Electrophysiology lab I work in to wire it up for me. I decided to save the 470uF Black Gates for a future purchase of a D12 in a years time. In addition, asking the co-worker to do a five minute soldering job rather than spend a half hour trying to map out how to cram the 470uF BG in there was probably pushing my luck with his generosity.
Right out of the 'Gates, the sound was brittle and sound stage narrow. I am just at the 6 hour mark and it is already less brittle and sibilant. While he was in there I had the R134 resistor swapped out as well for a surface mounted 4.7K ohm. Now the gain switch actually does something! Thanks to all the posters that helped with the parts and info (Madwolf, Theory88 and Jamato). I will try to report on the outcome as these BG burn in.
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