[Pepito]

Quote:

Originally Posted by madwolf /img/forum/go_quote.gif My D10 Capacitor Rolling experience have been crazy! In the First week, All the different listening session left me in confusion. The sound of the Capacitor before burn in could be different within the same song. One moment it is good and another all bad. Once instance clear and bring another instance muddy and warm. At 24 hours brun in for the cap it is still changing but at 48 hours things seem to settle in a bit, but changes are still happening. Initial impression after 48 hours of burn in for capacitors ELNA Silmic 2 -- This is the highest rated cap after Black gates. The sound is fast and neutral. A top contender for the D10 ELNA Silmic -- This is a very good all rounder, but the difference is very small compared to the newer 2, Simlic is warmer than silmic 2 but the overall air of confidence is missing compared to 2 and fro instrument silmic 2 is clearly better. ELNA Cerafine -- I have the most trouble auditing this Change change change in the first 24 hours. Cerafine have great potential get resolution and warmth at the same time but some grain in the sound. It is getting less grainy as it is burn in at 48 hours it has not settle yet. so let see later. NichIcon KZ -- Best for string instrument, the texture and air around guitar string never sounded so real on the D10 you could tell if the string are metal or nylon, Vocal is as good as the Silmic 2 and maybe a tat warmer. Unfortunally KZ series only comes in 25V and above and the only one that can fit is a 47uF 25V. Because of the small capacitance size the deep bass is missing from the sound. The leads of KZ are notably thicker than other capacitors Nichicon FineGold -- It is a good all rounder but not in the league of cerifine, Silmic or KZ. Neutral and extended. Nichicon ES Bipolar -- The king of vocal, Super warm and super sweet. After 48 hours it less warm and less sweet, but still much more than the rest. Th best if you ONLY listen to acapalla and or vocal. It is so good that I forgot I am audition cap and just enjoyed the song. Instrument and bass however need to be improved. Toshin UTSJ -- Warm sounding, as QUSP noted the high are not as clear as the best but for vocal it is sweet and warm. bass is deep and strong as well. Even with a WIMA bypass the high did not open up enough. Sanyo WG -- Good for sub sonic monster otherwise not an audio capacitor. Sanyo OSCON SP -- Thin on vocal, bright and clear at the high end. Extended bass. Sounds disappointing. Panasonic FC -- It has an all rounded sound , but does not excel in any area. Vocal is there but a tat cold. High is there but not extended or sharp. Nippon chemicon ASF -- Vocal is tat warm and high bright and clear, bass is there but not extended.

Madwolf, can you post the part numbers for the ELNA Silmic 2 caps that you used? Thanks!

 

[qusp]

yes, the silmic II are great caps, I have actually just used some in a dac i'm building, but I bypassed them with 100nf mundorf MKP, I think this will sound pretty great.

I have just swapped out the 10000uf UTSJ in my FiQuest power reservoir for Nichicon FW and the sound has improved already.

the BG we use is 220uf, with the original HP out caps being 470, you should be able to find a 220uf that will fit, just look for a lower voltage version, we only deal with `5v here so if you can find any 10v they will be fine. most silmic II are pretty high voltage rating too though, i'm not sure how low they go

 

[Form]

Ok I contacted iBasso support regarding the issue I stated earlier and they suggested rolling the opamps; I did that using their suggestion (AD8656 with the two dummy buffers) and the glitching is now gone!

It's nice that I won't have to ship it back to China.

What are your opinions regarding the opamps I installed in there?

While the beast was open I thought why not take some pics for the D10 thread? So here you go:

From what I recall of the other photos the insides look a bit different… I think the caps are not the same (were they blue previously?).

 

[qusp]

no the 150-0 uf you have there is the same as I have seen in all I hacve had open, but the green ones you have there I havent seen. cant tell from above what they are.

I was actually going to suggest rolling opamps too, the stock ones are very sensitive to RFI. are you seriously asking us to comment on the opamps you have in there without telling us what they are? opamps are hard enough to read the writing when you have them in your hand, let alone on a low resolution pic.

 

[qusp]

no the 150-0 uf you have there is the same as I have seen in all I hacve had open, but the green ones you have there I havent seen. cant tell from above what they are.

I was actually going to suggest rolling opamps too, the stock ones are very sensitive to RFI. are you seriously asking us to comment on the opamps you have in there without telling us what they are? opamps are hard enough to read the writing when you have them in your hand, let alone on a low resolution pic.

 

[Form]

Quote:

Originally Posted by qusp /img/forum/go_quote.gif I was actually going to suggest rolling opamps too, the stock ones are very sensitive to RFI. are you seriously asking us to comment on the opamps you have in there without telling us what they are? opamps are hard enough to read the writing when you have them in your hand, let alone on a low resolution pic.

I listed the new opamps I installed at the beginning of my previous post. Here they are again: AD8656 with the two dummy buffers (with no chip on them). Those came in the opamp rolling kit with the D10 and were what iBasso service recommended I use to fix my problem.

I'm pretty sure it was not RFI because the glitch happened wherever I was, including when there was no radio emitter nearby (say, in the bus). It always sounded the same too, and was not constant at all (small noise bursts).

 

[vkvedam]

Even if someone uses a mobile on the bus at certain distance it picks up the noise.

 

[Form]

True but this is no background noise; its a very audible and sharp electronic-sounding glitch, followed by complete silence. I cannot imagine any RFI noise being so audible and occasional.

If the opamps are OK then there is no way nobody else gets this noise… there shouldn't be more radio waves here than where all other D10 owners live.

 

[vkvedam]

Believe me. I had the same problem when I took the stock D10 on the London Underground.

 

[jamato8]

I like the 8656 but like the 8616 even more. They are both good though. Wait till you get more hours on the amp and the caps form. I think you will like the sound even more.

 

[Form]

8616? I don't have that in my kit; stock I had the ADA4841 with AD708 buffers. I thought it sounded damn good…

 

[HiFlight]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Form /img/forum/go_quote.gif 8616? I don't have that in my kit; stock I had the ADA4841 with AD708 buffers. I thought it sounded damn good…

The ADA4841-2 is a very nice sounding opamp, but unfortunately it is very sensitive to RF interference, as you have found.

I very much agree with John that the AD8616 is better sounding than the 8656, especially in the highs. It is also very miserly with battery power, if that is a concern. It also sounds quite good with bypassed (dummy) buffers. It has a good current output so you won't really miss the buffers.

 

[qusp]

my apologies Form, mI dont know what happened there, but I looked at the post twice and didnt see that listed.

yes AD8616 is superior, BUF634 is even better IMO, not a beginners mod that one though

 

[Form]

So in essence if I'm looking for a sound signature similar to the ADA4841-2 (which highs I found were clearer than the AD8656; a good match for my W3's based on the short amount of time I spent listening to those two together) but without the interference, the AD8616 would be a good option?

All those suggestions you made, what about the buffers? Should I suppose dummy buffers unless specified? Why does the ADA4841-2 uses non-dummy buffers? (In fact does someone have a link to a thread or some good info on the opamp / buffer principle? I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics and honestly I have no idea what the buffers do.)

Where can I find the AD8616 or similar opamps mounted on those mini boards that plug into the D10's opamp slots? I've heard about fake opamps, I wouldn't want to buy one of those by mistake…

 

[qusp]

all mentioned ARE buffers; buffers are there for a few of reasons,

1. to increase current (not voltage)
2. to take an impedance that is higher than we would like and output with a very low impedance, this gives a wider range of headphones that can be used effectively. the ideal buffer has infinite input impedance and infinite output impedance
3. this way the buffers are taking the 'weight' so to speak, leaving the opamp unaffected by the load (your headphones)

as far as texts, sorry I dont know anything off the top of my head, but google is your friend. they can be bought online at places like mouser and digikey safely and cheaply. but not on adapters. some will be available in a DIP8 package that does not need an adapter. you can try browndog.com, but they are a bit pricey. PM member highflight. he has already posted on this page, he'll sort you out