[ecwl]

the tt2 is set to dbnc

the input on the chord mscaler is a bit confusing as I understand the instructions since why is there a pink auto mode and a dbnc mode .....I guess I am safe on the pink mode although technically if using the tt2 it should be in blue mode (as my optical cable is in the digital 2 input of the mscaler)

I am also confused about the hms output sample rate chart (4.5) in the mscaler manutal as it shows max upscaling from the Oppo 105 is 192 yet the readout on the TT2 shows 768 in pink mode and 705 in blue mode.

does this mean I can only use usb input on the mscaler to get to 705 or 768?

I know the M-Scaler colours are super confusing but I’m not sure what you’re referring to.
First of all, the left most button is the video mode button. I usually leave it off (no color) so that I get maximum 1 million tap upsampling. If I’m watching a video and need less delay, I usually manually switch to white mode so that I get 600,000 taps. I dont use the automatic mode because the auto detection is based on sample rate (since M-Scaler has no way of knowing if you’re watching a video or not). So if it’s 44.1kHz, it’s 1 million taps and 48kHz it’s 600,000 taps and I haven’t tried 96kHz, etc. But I sometimes watch videos with 44.1kHz sound and listen to music with 48kHz sample rate.
The second left most button is the source input selector. Pink (magenta) is auto select mode which I never use because I find sometimes other sources can be active without me knowing so it’s impossible for M-Scaler to read my mind as to which source I want. I have two optical sources so I choose between one or the other (green/blue). The reason why there is a light blue/cyan mode for dual BNC input is that some sources would feed 192kHz signal via dual BNC. It’s a fairly specialized scenario so the option is there but I don’t think anyone actually uses it. In fact, since I don’t even have BNC’s plugged into M-Scaler, the dual BNC input mode is not an option for me.
The third left most button is always on White because I want maximum upsampling. I never touch it.
Oppo 105 doesn’t upscale if you’re connecting it Toslink/S/PDIF to M-Scaler. And most Blu-rays are copy-protected so you won’t get anything more than 48kHz out of the Oppo 105 via Toslink/S/PDIF. If you have high-res music files on a USB stick plugged into the Oppo, then you can get that file played back via Toslink/S/PDIF at the original sample rate, e.g. 96kHz or maybe even 192kHz.
And this leads to the fourth button from the left (third from the right) which should be set to off and when there is music playing the color of the button tells you what sample rate the Oppo is feeding your source music at. Red is 44.1kHz. Orange-Red is 48kHz, yellow is 88.2kHz, green is 96kHz, blue is 176.kHz and purple is 196kHz.
So going back to your question about why in pink/magenta auto mode, you’re getting 768kHz on your TT2 and in blue mode you’re getting 705.6kHz, my suspicion is that either in pink mode, you’re running a different source (or the same source) that’s feeding 48/96/192kHz to M-Scaler and in Blue mode, your source is feeding 44/88/176kHz to M-Scaler so the upsampling goes to the appropriate 16fs frequency. You can figure this out by looking at the color of that 4th from the left; 3rd from the right button color when playing music.

 

[karmapolice]

I know the M-Scaler colours are super confusing but I’m not sure what you’re referring to.
First of all, the left most button is the video mode button. I usually leave it off (no color) so that I get maximum 1 million tap upsampling. If I’m watching a video and need less delay, I usually manually switch to white mode so that I get 600,000 taps. I dont use the automatic mode because the auto detection is based on sample rate (since M-Scaler has no way of knowing if you’re watching a video or not). So if it’s 44.1kHz, it’s 1 million taps and 48kHz it’s 600,000 taps and I haven’t tried 96kHz, etc. But I sometimes watch videos with 44.1kHz sound and listen to music with 48kHz sample rate.
The second left most button is the source input selector. Pink (magenta) is auto select mode which I never use because I find sometimes other sources can be active without me knowing so it’s impossible for M-Scaler to read my mind as to which source I want. I have two optical sources so I choose between one or the other (green/blue). The reason why there is a light blue/cyan mode for dual BNC input is that some sources would feed 192kHz signal via dual BNC. It’s a fairly specialized scenario so the option is there but I don’t think anyone actually uses it. In fact, since I don’t even have BNC’s plugged into M-Scaler, the dual BNC input mode is not an option for me.
The third left most button is always on White because I want maximum upsampling. I never touch it.
Oppo 105 doesn’t upscale if you’re connecting it Toslink/S/PDIF to M-Scaler. And most Blu-rays are copy-protected so you won’t get anything more than 48kHz out of the Oppo 105 via Toslink/S/PDIF. If you have high-res music files on a USB stick plugged into the Oppo, then you can get that file played back via Toslink/S/PDIF at the original sample rate, e.g. 96kHz or maybe even 192kHz.
And this leads to the fourth button from the left (third from the right) which should be set to off and when there is music playing the color of the button tells you what sample rate the Oppo is feeding your source music at. Red is 44.1kHz. Orange-Red is 48kHz, yellow is 88.2kHz, green is 96kHz, blue is 176.kHz and purple is 196kHz.
So going back to your question about why in pink/magenta auto mode, you’re getting 768kHz on your TT2 and in blue mode you’re getting 705.6kHz, my suspicion is that either in pink mode, you’re running a different source (or the same source) that’s feeding 48/96/192kHz to M-Scaler and in Blue mode, your source is feeding 44/88/176kHz to M-Scaler so the upsampling goes to the appropriate 16fs frequency. You can figure this out by looking at the color of that 4th from the left; 3rd from the right button color when playing music.

ok thats for input....I am using both cd and dvd that I burn myself that range depending on the disc from 24/44.1 to other discs that are 24/48 or 24/96.

 

[Crazeenick]

And it might be time to think about better headphones. Yours are not “bad”, but MTT2 could easily show you why flagships are flagships.

As it happens, I am going to audition Focal Utopia and Meze Empyreans. Any thoughts on which of these headphones would best match a TT2/MScaler setup?

 

[moemoney]

As it happens, I am going to audition Focal Utopia and Meze Empyreans. Any thoughts on which of these headphones would best match a TT2/MScaler setup?

I don’t have the Utopias so I can’t comment on that but I do have the Empyreans and to me it’s a match made in heaven I enjoy it goes with the TT2 & Mscaler, more than with my Woo Audio amp. I also have the Elears, But they don’t get too much head time these days.

 

[JTbbb]

As it happens, I am going to audition Focal Utopia and Meze Empyreans. Any thoughts on which of these headphones would best match a TT2/MScaler setup?

Don’t forget to audition Sennhieser HD800S, you may be surprised, and save yourself some money. I thought they went very well with my tt2, as they do now with Dave. I personally preferred them to Utopia’s, but I’ve not auditioned Empy’s as yet.

 

[jarnopp]

As it happens, I am going to audition Focal Utopia and Meze Empyreans. Any thoughts on which of these headphones would best match a TT2/MScaler setup?

I would also recommend you try the Heddphone if you can. That has been getting the majority of my time these days (though I don’t have the mScaler, only TT2).

 

[naynay]

Hi naynay, I am thinking about making my own ferrited cables using all the info you have given. Currently I am still using the stock BNC’s with clip on ferrites. I have a couple of questions, I have found the Oyaide cables and connectors on the Analogue seduction website, but do you start with the bare cable and connectors. Then do you add the ferrites and O’rings, and the last thing is to solder the connectors on, or do you order the cable with connectors, remove one end, add ferrites and O’rings, then solder just the one end? The bare cable I see on the website, how do you know what to separate, and where to solder it to on the connector? I live in Canada, so I am also not sure if there are better places to source all the components?

Hi,I start with just the cable and solder the BNC to one side and add the required amount of ferrites and O'rings and then solder the other BNC the other end.
To get the best results you will be better to solder the BNC's yourself as the cable you buy with connectors attached will not have the shielding soldered it will be most likely just be wrapped.
If using OYAIDE FTVS-510 5N Silver 75 Ohm Cable the wire with the blue outer called the centre conductor is soldered to the pin of the BNC.The remaining wires which make up the shielding that run around the cable are Soldered as well.
Very easy to solder even for a beginner I had no issues on first attempt just make sure you have a soldering iron that has a high temp.
Hope this helps with your M Scaler BNC cables.

 

[N Quarter]

Hi,I start with just the cable and solder the BNC to one side and add the required amount of ferrites and O'rings and then solder the other BNC the other end.
To get the best results you will be better to solder the BNC's yourself as the cable you buy with connectors attached will not have the shielding soldered it will be most likely just be wrapped.
If using OYAIDE FTVS-510 5N Silver 75 Ohm Cable the wire with the blue outer called the centre conductor is soldered to the pin of the BNC.The remaining wires which make up the shielding that run around the cable are Soldered as well.
Hope this helps with your M Scaler BNC cables.

Thanks Naynay, but I have decided to go with Wave cables.

 

[Ragnar-BY]

As it happens, I am going to audition Focal Utopia and Meze Empyreans. Any thoughts on which of these headphones would best match a TT2/MScaler setup?

Both are great, but very different. Meze for bass and warmth, Focal for energetic highs and speed. I prefer Empy as more universal, although I highly recommend to try silver cable for this headphones (I use Lavricables, but there are many others).

 

[S-O8]

Both are great, but very different. Meze for bass and warmth, Focal for energetic highs and speed. I prefer Empy as more universal, although I highly recommend to try silver cable for this headphones (I use Lavricables, but there are many others).

Try the Stellia if you can. It is warmer and has more bass than the Utopia. i find it a much 'easier' listen and tend to grab the Stellia more than my Utopia. That's on a TT2/MSC combo.

 

[Crazeenick]

Don’t forget to audition Sennhieser HD800S, you may be surprised, and save yourself some money. I thought they went very well with my tt2, as they do now with Dave. I personally preferred them to Utopia’s, but I’ve not auditioned Empy’s as yet.

I previously auditioned Sennheiser HD800S and didn't like them, but I know lots of people love them!

 

[N Quarter]

Has anyone tried, or heard a Simaudio Mind 2 Network Player into an Mscaler or TT2/Dave? It seems to check all the boxes, and is fairly cheap compared to some of the high end streamers/servers. I have read that the DCS Network bridge is really good, better than Auralic G2, but is over twice the cost of the Sim, maybe nobody looks at it because it is Canadian made? I am currently using a Naim Core to store/serve all my music, using a BNC connection to the Mscaler. I eventually want to add a streamer in the mix again, and would like a Chord desktop version of the 2go/2YU if that ever happens, but how long can one wait... there is also the Naim ND5XS, but I do not need the DAC inside.

 

[FlikFlac]

Has anyone tried, or heard a Simaudio Mind 2 Network Player into an Mscaler or TT2/Dave? It seems to check all the boxes, and is fairly cheap compared to some of the high end streamers/servers. I have read that the DCS Network bridge is really good, better than Auralic G2, but is over twice the cost of the Sim, maybe nobody looks at it because it is Canadian made? I am currently using a Naim Core to store/serve all my music, using a BNC connection to the Mscaler. I eventually want to add a streamer in the mix again, and would like a Chord desktop version of the 2go/2YU if that ever happens, but how long can one wait... there is also the Naim ND5XS, but I do not need the DAC inside.

I use the Project Stream Ultra S2 which does a sterling job. In the audiophile world it’s one of those rare products you might actually say is good value. I’ve been experimenting with mine and compared to having a Roon Rock NUC connected by USB to the Project to the Mscaler, it works best on its own. Well worth a listen.

 

[griff500]

Would the preferred or recommended connection from an Auralic Aries G1 to the M-Scaler be USB or SPDIF and why?

 

[Triode User]

Would the preferred or recommended connection from an Auralic Aries G1 to the M-Scaler be USB or SPDIF and why?

Hi Griff, Nice to see you on here!

It depends on who you talk to. There is a case for going with Optical for noise isolation but the G1 is connected to the mains so that will probably defeat the advantage of the optical. For me, I prefer a well executed USB compared to optical in any case but I suggest that you try all three and decide for yourself. It is much the best way in the end.