modscab
New Head-Fier
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- Apr 2, 2010
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Some crazy mod on Auzen X-Fi HT HD, not by me. Will update mine soon.
Originally Posted by modscab /img/forum/go_quote.gif Some crazy mod on Auzen X-Fi HT HD, not by me. Will update mine soon. |
Originally Posted by hans030390 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Any idea which of the opamps will be for the main L/R? Will it still be the top one? Which capacitors on these would be replaced? Most mods I've seen just replace one, and it's usually a larger one on the board. I'm not seeing one like that for the Titanium in these pictures. |
Originally Posted by sobi123 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Would be very glad if somebody could help me with that. Can supply pics of my SB0550 if anyone would need it to tell. Would be interesting to see how the dac output alone would sound. Very big thank you on top |
Originally Posted by Spacehead /img/forum/go_quote.gif It sounds very neutral. If you don't mind testing your card with it's own ADC then you can take only + or - line from DAC output. I mean that the amplitude of the signal will drop a lot if you don't do your own differential to single ended conversion. If you want to use the highpass filter on the PCB, just take signal from op amp pins 3 right, and 5 left. You can route the signal from decoupling capacitors. I found a picture http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/6...19a7310vd3.jpg You can get left channel from C45 and right channel from C49. I am not absolutely sure. You could easily measure it with multimeter. pin 3 and pin 5 are + inputs on op amp , right 3, and left 5. hmm... I have tinkered with X-FI a lot but never seen an X-FI elite, pretty darn expensive card! |
Originally Posted by Spacehead /img/forum/go_quote.gif As you can see from following picture, dac doesn't get instantly damaged if it is soldered on. It is really difficult to get good solder joints on those small legs, as my soldering iron tip is 1.2 mm and those legs are 0.2 mm wide |
Originally Posted by sobi123 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Elite pro are cheap on ebay |
Originally Posted by Spacehead /img/forum/go_quote.gif It you decide to take the dac signal, I suggest that you take it out from underside of the card, at the DC coupling caps. Then you won't damage anything. Even a small mistake on a crucial point can lead to hissing and you feel like sh¤t. As you see from my card picture, the practicing has taken it's toll and card looks ugly. But my skills have improved so much during this modding adventure that I have been able to get back the original performance! |
Originally Posted by sobi123 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hahah the feel like sheet part applies a great deal I think ahahah Who cares if it's ugly, if it sounds emotionally moving ! Great to hear you could bring it back ! What caps did you use over the card instead of crappycons ? |
Originally Posted by cynan /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm a total amature when it comes to this sort of thing. After getting the stock power capacitor out, I go a bit agressive trying to remove solder stuck in the through holes at C177. One of the pads on the back of the card lifted. Is there anything I can do about this, or is it game over? I can't find any schematics for C177 traces.. (kind of a shame, cause I already replaced the OpAmp and decoupling caps, which worked) Thanks in advance! |