[swtnate]

i meant the guy above haha i want to verify something to give an advice

I was aware. Feeling cheeky today. Decided to dive right into the crazy regardless. A resin filled dynamic driver IEM sounds like the lost city of Atlantis.


☠

 

[BobbyKa]

Can you tell us about your curing process?

1. Pour resin
2. 1st cure
3. Pour out excess resin

then what?

4. 2nd cure
5. remove shell from cure
6. 3rd cure inside glysol

i know that many only fill glysol inside the shell, and don't dip the entire shell. But don't know how this should make this difference. maybe 2nd cure to short?

 

[mattmatt]

4. 2nd cure
5. remove shell from cure
6. 3rd cure inside glysol

i know that many only fill glysol inside the shell, and don't dip the entire shell. But don't know how this should make this difference. maybe 2nd cure to short?

somewhere along your resin pour and 2nd cure, you managed to break the seal from the agar and shell. Try removing the shell from the mold before the 2nd cure.

 

[mattmatt]

somewhere along your resin pour and 2nd cure, you managed to break the seal from the agar and shell. Try removing the shell from the mold before the 2nd cure.

This can also be resin sipping while you're on your 2nd cure. You can also pour your resin out and then leave it upside down in a paper towel for a few minutes to let all the excess pour out then cure also upside down.

 

[BobbyKa]

somewhere along your resin pour and 2nd cure, you managed to break the seal from the agar and shell. Try removing the shell from the mold before the 2nd cure.

this makes sense. I will try.

 

[BobbyKa]

This can also be resin sipping while you're on your 2nd cure. You can also pour your resin out and then leave it upside down in a paper towel for a few minutes to let all the excess pour out then cure also upside down.

this is what i did, without removing the shell. didn't mention this.

 

[IndyAudio14]

Can somebody help me with wiring twfk,dwfk,swfk etc in parallel.maybe a simple diagram

 

[swtnate]

This can also be resin sipping while you're on your 2nd cure. You can also pour your resin out and then leave it upside down in a paper towel for a few minutes to let all the excess pour out then cure also upside down.

I also leave mind upside down after pour out. If you leave it for too long, you might see air bubbles. So, I set mine to a timer of 4 minutes, then second cure.

 

[Touchowl]

Having trouble with my 711 clone coupler and looking for some advice. Huge leak below 3k makes it unusable:

The problem is non-variable regardless of tips, iems measured, dac or cable. This was not a problem just 6 days ago, pictured here with same input and output devices and settings, measured iem is truthear zero:

I feel like I've covered all my bases here so I'm stumped on what the problem is.

 

[AnyDave]

Having trouble with my 711 clone coupler and looking for some advice. Huge leak below 3k makes it unusable:The problem is non-variable regardless of tips, iems measured, dac or cable. This was not a problem just 6 days ago, pictured here with same input and output devices and settings, measured iem is truthear zero:
I feel like I've covered all my bases here so I'm stumped on what the problem is.

Do you know if the leak is in the coupler itself or in the seal between the earphone and the coupler?

There's a couple of things I would recommend checking:

1.) If you aren't already doing so, try using Fun-Tak poster putty to force a seal.

2.) Are you using the conical canal extension on there? Those typically don't work with custom IEMs as they not only prevent a seal, they prevent the earphone from getting to the reference plane of the coupler, which means that you'll get a bad measurement even if you do have a seal. If possible, I would replace the conical canal extension with a flatter plate. I would machine it, but if you don't have access to that, you could 3D print, or even cast one in actylic and sand it down. The trick is the to copy the mechanical detail on the underside of the conical extension so that it mates properly with the face of the 711.

 

[Touchowl]

Do you know if the leak is in the coupler itself or in the seal between the earphone and the coupler?

There's a couple of things I would recommend checking:

1.) If you aren't already doing so, try using Fun-Tak poster putty to force a seal.

2.) Are you using the conical canal extension on there? Those typically don't work with custom IEMs as they not only prevent a seal, they prevent the earphone from getting to the reference plane of the coupler, which means that you'll get a bad measurement even if you do have a seal. If possible, I would replace the conical canal extension with a flatter plate. I would machine it, but if you don't have access to that, you could 3D print, or even cast one in actylic and sand it down. The trick is the to copy the mechanical detail on the underside of the conical extension so that it mates properly with the face of the 711.

I'm fairly certain it's the coupler itself, the issue is consistent regardless of what earphone is used. I don't think I'm using a conical extension? It's the cylinder that came with the coupler itself. Maybe I should try ordering a new canal extension though.

 

[BobbyKa]

I also leave mind upside down after pour out. If you leave it for too long, you might see air bubbles. So, I set mine to a timer of 4 minutes, then second cure.

do you cure with the mould still inside the transparent ring or do you remove the mould from the ring when it is solid?

 

[AnyDave]

I'm fairly certain it's the coupler itself, the issue is consistent regardless of what earphone is used. I don't think I'm using a conical extension? It's the cylinder that came with the coupler itself. Maybe I should try ordering a new canal extension though.

Can you take a picture with all of the parts separated? The conical extension is the stock one and can work for normal earphones, but is tough with customs.

 

[Touchowl]

Can you take a picture with all of the parts separated? The conical extension is the stock one and can work for normal earphones, but is tough with customs.

I'll get a picture when I get home but yeah, it's the stock coupler from sounds good store. I'm not working with customs though, I'll be working with my own stuff shortly but the graphs posted are an off the shelf truthear zero.

 

[AnyDave]

I'll get a picture when I get home but yeah, it's the stock coupler from sounds good store. I'm not working with customs though, I'll be working with my own stuff shortly but the graphs posted are an off the shelf truthear zero.

It could be the coupler then. Here’s what I would do to check:

1.) Make sure the unity but is tight (no force is needed here, just hand tight).

2.) Try testing the earphone with no eartip but funtak forcing a seal. The measurements will be wrong, but you’ll see if you have a leak.