[Touchowl]

Can you take a picture with all of the parts separated? The conical extension is the stock one and can work for normal earphones, but is tough with customs.

I'll get a picture when I get home but yeah, it's the stock coupler from sounds good store. I'm not working with customs though, I'll be working with my own stuff shortly but the graphs posted are an off the shelf truthear zero.

 

[AnyDave]

I'll get a picture when I get home but yeah, it's the stock coupler from sounds good store. I'm not working with customs though, I'll be working with my own stuff shortly but the graphs posted are an off the shelf truthear zero.

It could be the coupler then. Here’s what I would do to check:

1.) Make sure the unity but is tight (no force is needed here, just hand tight).

2.) Try testing the earphone with no eartip but funtak forcing a seal. The measurements will be wrong, but you’ll see if you have a leak.

 

[swtnate]

do you cure with the mould still inside the transparent ring or do you remove the mould from the ring when it is solid?

I remove the negative from the cylinder. However, keep it in the cylinder until you have pulled the impression from the mold. It will prevent splits and cracks.

 

[ThomasHK]

Any of you guys in Taipei? Would love to meet up and see the crazy iems you made, talk BAs DDs and xover networks

 

[Touchowl]

It could be the coupler then. Here’s what I would do to check:

1.) Make sure the unity but is tight (no force is needed here, just hand tight).

2.) Try testing the earphone with no eartip but funtak forcing a seal. The measurements will be wrong, but you’ll see if you have a leak.

Heres the collar taken apart:

And this is what I tried in order to get a seal, with no result:

At this point it must be a broken coupler, right?

 

[AnyDave]

Heres the collar taken apart:


And this is what I tried in order to get a seal, with no result:

At this point it must be a broken coupler, right?

At this point. It’s most likely a leaky coupler or something to do with the mic preamp. What are you connecting the mic to?

 

[Touchowl]

At this point. It’s most likely a leaky coupler or something to do with the mic preamp. What are you connecting the mic to?

Right now I'm connecting it to my desktops internal sound card. Tried using a dongle connector but windows doesn't seem to want to recognize it as a microphone.

 

[IndyAudio14]

Question tool to install 1.12 and 1.78 dampers I have 2.08 tool can you use it or is there another way

 

[swtnate]

Right now I'm connecting it to my desktops internal sound card. Tried using a dongle connector but windows doesn't seem to want to recognize it as a microphone.

The computer is probably not recognizing it correctly. I had the same problem when I first started. I bought a $10-$15 external soundcard that would recognize TRRS.

 

[swtnate]

Question tool to install 1.12 and 1.78 dampers I have 2.08 tool can you use it or is there another way

no tools needed. The 1.12 is primarily used on the driver sound spouts. Then, the tubing is put over them. It will give you a steeper type slope on subs that are a little wild above 1k. The 1.78 were such a huge pain, I will never get them again. The are essentially the cloth inside the metal housing.

Fair warning, the 1.12 while convenient can be super tricky to glue down as the cloth will wick the glue over the sound spout. It wont ruin the driver (Usually) THANK GOD!!! Just keep testing to insure it doesnt get muffled.

 

[AnyDave]

The computer is probably not recognizing it correctly. I had the same problem when I first started. I bought a $10-$15 external soundcard that would recognize TRRS.

Yeah, it may not be connected (or powered) correctly.

I’ve found that the machining on the cheap 711s is often fairly decent, but the cheap electret mics they use leave a lot to be desired. I ended up making my own preamp board for it and even then I wasnt satisfied unless making a transfer function type measurement.

There’s a sound card that is sold by that vendor (or one of the other inexpensive 711 vendors) that works fairly well and is only $20 or so.

 

[emdeevee]

Is there anyone in the US who could re-install a detached mmcx connector from a Sony IER-Z1R? Seems a bloody shame to trash it.

 

[rudbeard]

This is one of the reasons I've never bought a Z1R, let me guess, it's disconnected inside and Sony won't repair it? I could have sworn we had this discussion another time in this thread.

EDIT: yeah, it looks like we discussed this previously. I don't know, it still feels like the same problem as before, how are you supposed to get into the shell to do the repaair?

Is there anyone in the US who could re-install a detached mmcx connector from a Sony IER-Z1R? Seems a bloody shame to trash it.

 

[emdeevee]

This is one of the reasons I've never bought a Z1R, let me guess, it's disconnected inside and Sony won't repair it? I could have sworn we had this discussion another time in this thread.

Yes, it's fully disconnected. And yes, Sony will not repair it out of warranty.

 

[rudbeard]

That's a huge bummer, I'm sorry your pair had this happen. I'm curious but not enough to mess around with something that isn't mine. How far out can you pull the MMCX connector? Is it possible to unwind and extract it from the shell? based on the shell, it could be soldered to the wires, wound up, and then press-fit from the top.