BadgerMcBadger
Head-Fier
how do i keep the canal from becoming entirely solid when hardening the fotoplast? can i poke it with tweezers to check or will that mess up the shell?
Typically what’s recommended is that you cure the mold with the opening facing up long enough to get your desired shell thickness (usually 1.5-3 mm). Then you’ll turn the mold upside down to finishing curing. This lets the incited fotoplast flow down and out of the canal and keeps it from becoming solidhow do i keep the canal from becoming entirely solid when hardening the fotoplast? can i poke it with tweezers to check or will that mess up the shell?
how do i know i reached desired shell thickness? also which negative mold material should i use? i tried the gelatine glycerin mix and it didnt end wellTypically what’s recommended is that you cure the mold with the opening facing up long enough to get your desired shell thickness (usually 1.5-3 mm). Then you’ll turn the mold upside down to finishing curing. This lets the incited fotoplast flow down and out of the canal and keeps it from becoming solid
can i poke the sides with a dental tool or will that ruin the shell? also, thanks for the answerFor me it was a lot of trial and error to get desired thickness. Cure time depends on your material, strength of your UV light, etc, so you’ve got to play around with if. Even just a couple seconds can make a significant difference.
I use mold making silicon for my molds. It’s more expensive than glycerin, but I got better results and the molds are quite tough so can be used repeatedly
I’ve use this and it has worked well. It’s mixed 1:1 by weight, so a kitchen scale is helpfulalso, which mold sillicone do you use?
since the bottles seem the same size and have the same weight i can just mix them by volume right?I’ve use this and it has worked well. It’s mixed 1:1 by weight, so a kitchen scale is helpful
https://a.co/d/6sqCnPm
As far as poking the shell, I’d avoid that. When you do the initial cure it will still be somewhat flexible. You should be able to eyeball the thickness by looking at the edges of the top of the mold.
My process is usually pour —> initial cure —> cure upside down —> remove from mold —> final cure for several minutes in glycerin to avoid the sticky inhibition layer
Should be able to-I use a scale just to be double sure because it’s important to the silicone curing correctlysince the bottles seem the same size and have the same weight i can just mix them by volume right?
i dont have a scale sadly. did you ever notice if the volume ratio is much different than the weight ratio?Should be able to-I use a scale just to be double sure because it’s important to the silicone curing correctly
So the paraffin won’t stick to the silicone as they don’t interact with each other. After the mold is cured you be able to carefully pick out any bits that stuck. Though for waxing I’d recommend thishow do i keep the paraffin wax from sticking to the negative mold?
i dont have a scale sadly. did you ever notice if the volume ratio is much different than the weight ratio?
thanks. sadly i already bought a bunch of parrafin because shipment is expensive and i wasnt expecting having to order new mold materials. thanks for the help thoughSo the paraffin won’t stick to the silicone as they don’t interact with each other. After the mold is cured you be able to carefully pick out any bits that stuck. Though for waxing I’d recommend this
https://a.co/d/2OhJAUo
It’s a slightly thicker, more flexible wax and I got smoother molds and less flaking vs pure paraffin
For measuring the silicon, appears the weight/volume is the same so they’re the same density. You should be able to measure 1:1 by volume and be ok
The issue with silicone for molds is the transparency causes the shell to flash cure sometimes and you get some ridges and stress lines on the external layer you will have to contend with.thanks. sadly i already bought a bunch of parrafin because shipment is expensive and i wasnt expecting having to order new mold materials. thanks for the help though
THD is not really a concern with BA for high frequencies, anything above 2-3kHz 99% BAs handle well, unless you are stressing over 0,03% vs 0,028% ...but then there are bigger variations between BAs themselvesWhen going to shorter tube lengths, keep in mind that THD increases when you being the drivers closer to sound bore. I would recommend nothing shorter than 12 mm.
I would not listen to anyone who recommends option 1.Hi guys, I've decided to go with a simple GK build this time, starting with the green damper on TWFK and red on the CI, as a start point.
I'm more interested in tubing size and what's worked well for others, before experimenting too much.
Most of the tutorials I've found online seem to go with the first option that in the pic that I've added below, but wouldn't having a 1mm ID be less than ideal for the high's of the TWFK?
I can fit 2mm ID tubing (like option 2) inside my custom shells, but it's been a crazy tight squeeze in previous builds.
Would option 3 be a good compromise with the 1.5mm ID tubing? Or a mixture of the three options?
What's been everyone's tubing method with any simple GK builds?
When it sounds more - then it's the correct polarityHow could I confirm that should I Reverse CI/3300 when using WBFK from TWFK or single WBFK? I have tried both way to connect the driver, I feel like when I connect all of them in normal +/- way, sound of wbfk is gone. When I connect it reversed, it sound more "". Thanks
Check a few (maybe 20) pages back, I think there was a discussion about RAU/RDU alreadyHas anyone tried Knowles RDU? Seems to be a dual version of RAU. Would two RAUs be beneficial or is one good enough?