With a yes or no I presume
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Home-Made IEMs
- Thread starter Bilavideo
- Start date
JEHL
1000+ Head-Fier
So, does total surface area of the membrane have any effect on the sound. Or is a 6mm more likely to run into Xmax/Xmech than say, a 12mm DD?
StephenJames
New Head-Fier
I'm still struggling with getting the tubing down to this kind of length. My shells have quite the deep insertion, as it was my understanding that for singers it helps with the occlusion effect, but of course that makes it more difficult for tubing lengths.18mm will already cut into highs a bit. 15-16mm would probably be a sweet spot.
If I was using separate drivers, I'm sure I could get a smaller tweeter or midrange driver further down the canal, but the GK is definitely limited by it's size.
Maybe feeding it all into a larger 3mm ID tubing closer to the drivers? and then having a single larger bore to the output?
I may just make some shorter shells, or even universals with the GK and try some separate drivers with the deeper customs later on.
Have long canals been a problem with anyones customs in the past?
Interesting option, luckily the parcel arrived today, and I'm back to tinkering around.Try to test using stripped wire insulation as sound tubing. Find something with 2mm single core wire, so there are no strange festures/surface finish on the ID. Better than twiddling thumbs any day.
you're using 3D printing right? Develop a shell with pre-printed 5mm long 3mm diameter camber that would be feed with two 15mm 2mm tubings from GK and I think you'll have a nice sounding set up.I'm still struggling with getting the tubing down to this kind of length. My shells have quite the deep insertion, as it was my understanding that for singers it helps with the occlusion effect, but of course that makes it more difficult for tubing lengths.
If I was using separate drivers, I'm sure I could get a smaller tweeter or midrange driver further down the canal, but the GK is definitely limited by it's size.
Maybe feeding it all into a larger 3mm ID tubing closer to the drivers? and then having a single larger bore to the output?
I may just make some shorter shells, or even universals with the GK and try some separate drivers with the deeper customs later on.
Have long canals been a problem with anyones customs in the past?
Interesting option, luckily the parcel arrived today, and I'm back to tinkering around.
The name escapes me but there have been a few high end customs that use 0.5mm metal tubing with mesh filters on both ends for the bass, I think in part because it's easier to clean.Do you ever find wax buildup a problem with tiny tubes (<1mm) for customs? The pair I've been listening to recently has a roughly 0.5mm tube for the bass and recently I noticed the 2mm holes had a fair bit of wax in them. Those are easy to clean of course, but if it got in the 0.5mm I'm not sure what I'd do to get it out.
So far no problems, just a bit wary. I know you can get gauzes to git on the end, but when you have 3 or 4 tubes, that isn't really practical....
Fat Larry
500+ Head-Fier
Hi guys, anyone know the name of the planar driver for the Timeless and s12 and where i can find them?
Aldo40
Member of the Trade: Alambic-Ears
maybe hereHi guys, anyone know the name of the planar driver for the Timeless and s12 and where i can find them?
https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/1005...55683ec3b2!12000020517628194!rec!FR!121212824
Fat Larry
500+ Head-Fier
Thanks. Damn $$$$, probably cheaper to buy an s12. I thought the driver was supposed to be 14.8mm though.
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slakoth453
100+ Head-Fier
These early 14mm planars are all pretty similar and made by earbridge afaik. I got that same one but from taobao for about half the price. If you look at the picture you can see that it's missing the chamber on the back they usually have. I made a 3d model for that, it's definitely needed. Go to page 961 for details on my build and a link to the stl. There's also a new 14mm planar by huayunxin on aliexpress which I haven't tried yet but looks quite good. The best option in terms of price would be to get a kz pr2 for $40 and use that driver. I've heard that the driver is very good and competes with the earbridge. The IEM also looks very well tuned already.Thanks. Damn $$$$, probably cheaper to buy an s12. I thought the driver was supposed to be 14.8mm though.
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Fat Larry
500+ Head-Fier
These early 14mm planars are all pretty similar and made by earbridge afaik. I got that same one but from taobao for about half the price. If you look at the picture you can see that it's missing the chamber on the back they usually have. I made a 3d model for that, it's definitely needed. Go to page 961 for details on my build and a link to the stl. There's also a new 14mm planar by huayunxin on aliexpress which I haven't tried yet but looks quite good. The best option in terms of price would be to get a kz pr2 for $40 and use that driver. I've heard that the driver is very good and competes with the earbridge. The IEM also looks tuned very well already.
Thank you. Lots of great info. I think Chittys has them (can't confirm the brand) but they're very expensive.
Ironically i just cancelled my early bird order for the PR2.
swtnate
500+ Head-Fier
Are you connecting 1) CI + TWFK + WBFK. Or 2) CI + TWFK OR 3) CI + WBFK?How could I confirm that should I Reverse CI/3300 when using WBFK from TWFK or single WBFK? I have tried both way to connect the driver, I feel like when I connect all of them in normal +/- way, sound of wbfk is gone. When I connect it reversed, it sound more "". Thanks
1) Ive inverted the WBFK and found a pretty good sound that was a little less sibilant. But, this depends on a host of factors such as tube length, ID, coupled vs not coupled, etc. Ive also inverted TWFK with CI and WBFK wired correctly. It creates a bit more scoop. With CI inverted, the midrange seems more controlled with a bit less screaming. The biggest thing is to test your tube design thoroughly to prevent any frequency cancellations. If one is pushing and the other is pulling you will see it in the graph.
2) I always wire CI inverted with some added resistance to tame it down. I prefer an L-Pad followed by a Zobel. If calculated correctly, neither of those will introduce electrical phase shifts. You will still need to get the acoustic phase correct (ie tube distance)
3) Ive wired them correctly with added resistance to the CI (as above) and series capacitor to the WBFK.
Maybe this helps a little.
I just stumbled across the Huayunxin 14.2mm HS14-PD recently but I didn't know there was a new one as the Huayunxin H015 looks like a DD.
slakoth453
100+ Head-Fier
Yeah the hs14pd the one I was talking about. The other is a dd.I just stumbled across the Huayunxin 14.2mm HS14-PD recently but I didn't know there was a new one as the Huayunxin H015 looks like a DD.
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Irritatingly, in standard SEO-over-accuracy fashion, I keep seeing more DDs being called "planar" or "planer" because the driver is hyped right now.
slakoth453
100+ Head-Fier
Are you referring to the SPD or seeaudio rinko? The rinko is basically a planar but not a very good one.Irritatingly, in standard SEO-over-accuracy fashion, I keep seeing more DDs being called "planar" or "planer" because the driver is hyped right now.
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