[talyak]

The graph looks very much like one of the drivers has the wrong polarity somehow. I know you are ok now, but perhaps you have a loose or stray wire that is causing an intermittent issue?

Incidentally, I also had an IMM6 and gave up on it. Probably my fault but the mic came unglued within the spout and I could never get it to measure nicely after fixing it back. A cheap 711 clone from china was certainly more worth it for me.

Also, I did far too many builds before knocking up an impedance testing rig. I'd recommend doing that early on as it is useful for checking for ruling out any wiring issues

oh, i was just thinking about building an impedance test rig earlier today. do you have any recommendations on how to do it or tutorials that you know of?

 

[stegeoc]

i dont currently have a resin printer, but i can say the wash and cure stations are worth it just for how much easier it makes things. you can of course go without them, but having something to make sure the resins are cured fully is always a good idea. plus given the fact they have UV blocking covers, you are less likely to hurt your eyes or damage objects from too much UV exposure.

id advise wearing disposable gloves when handling shiz lol. i have super sensitive skin, so i tend to be careful whenever doing anything like handling resins, high percentage alcohol, etc.

i havent tried any of the plant based resins before. are there any that are rated skinsafe for shells? or do you cover them in a lacquer?

For curing I use a UV nail light. I try not to stare at it too much, but I guess some people use these things a lot so it shouldn't be too harmful. I have held things under it with resin unknowingly on my hands, and it does get pretty hot, but it's generally fine.

I'm fairly sure the plant based stuff is safe but it isn't medically approved. That stuff costs a fortune (if you can even find it). I use Lack 3 (or the Egger equivalent) as I think most people do. I'm not sure if there is any benefit to not using lacquer, except possibly if you prefer a matte finish? Or just can't get hold of any

 

[stegeoc]

oh, i was just thinking about building an impedance test rig earlier today. do you have any recommendations on how to do it or tutorials that you know of?

I followed the guide here: https://www.roomeqwizard.com/help/help_en-GB/html/impedancemeasurement.html
and made a few minor tweaks and used LIMP for measurements. Very simple and it's very accurate

 

[talyak]

For curing I use a UV nail light. I try not to stare at it too much, but I guess some people use these things a lot so it shouldn't be too harmful. I have held things under it with resin unknowingly on my hands, and it does get pretty hot, but it's generally fine.

I'm fairly sure the plant based stuff is safe but it isn't medically approved. That stuff costs a fortune (if you can even find it). I use Lack 3 (or the Egger equivalent) as I think most people do. I'm not sure if there is any benefit to not using lacquer, except possibly if you prefer a matte finish? Or just can't get hold of any

yeah, its probably mostly fine, given a lot of people do their nails on a regular basis with those things. the downside of course is that they are very small for anything larger than an iem.

the reason id rather not use lacquer is more about ease of creation than anything else. with my chronic pain i can only do so much in a day, so i tend to try to min-max for doing things with as little physical work as possible. tho i currently only have an fdm printer, so lacquer is gonna be necessary once i get my impressions done, and am building ciem designs.

I followed the guide here: https://www.roomeqwizard.com/help/help_en-GB/html/impedancemeasurement.html
and made a few minor tweaks and used LIMP for measurements. Very simple and it's very accurate

thanks! thats really helpful

 

[BobbyKa]

The graph looks very much like one of the drivers has the wrong polarity somehow. I know you are ok now, but perhaps you have a loose or stray wire that is causing an intermittent issue?

Incidentally, I also had an IMM6 and gave up on it. Probably my fault but the mic came unglued within the spout and I could never get it to measure nicely after fixing it back. A cheap 711 clone from china was certainly more worth it for me.

Also, I did far too many builds before knocking up an impedance testing rig. I'd recommend doing that early on as it is useful for checking for ruling out any wiring issues

I think I know what the problem was. And yes, it had to do with the settings i did.
I wrote that i did not change anything to make it work, but found out that this is not true. Each time i unplug the imm-6 from the Laptop (and i did this each time i change the inear or check the seal of the tube) and plug it in again, i have to select the device in REW again. There, I get a list of several devices. Without realising i sometimes did choose "Headphone (....)" and "Headset (...) and other times I chose "EXCL: Headphone (...)" and "EXCL: Headset (...)". The first mentioned gives the results that look wrong, the second ones (with "EXCL" in the name) gives the "correct" curves. Now I get the attached curves for the different InEars that I had laying around. The seal of the Tube seems to be great. Just plugging the tube to the imm-6 and the inear i get the same curves like carefuly sealing both ends with self fusing silicon tape (which for me seems to be perfect tape for this job).

 

[BadgerMcBadger]

yeah, its probably mostly fine, given a lot of people do their nails on a regular basis with those things. the downside of course is that they are very small for anything larger than an iem.

the reason id rather not use lacquer is more about ease of creation than anything else. with my chronic pain i can only do so much in a day, so i tend to try to min-max for doing things with as little physical work as possible. tho i currently only have an fdm printer, so lacquer is gonna be necessary once i get my impressions done, and am building ciem designs.


thanks! thats really helpful

somebody wrote on this thread that the lacquar can react with non bio-compatible materials which makes it no longer skin safe. i dont know if its true but i feel like its worth pointing out

 

[talyak]

somebody wrote on this thread that the lacquar can react with non bio-compatible materials which makes it no longer skin safe. i dont know if its true but i feel like its worth pointing out

well, lack 3 is specifically designed to cover non bio-compatible things with a skin-safe coating, so unless it has a chemical reaction with an incompatible material and breaks down for some reason, it will be fine. it doesnt just become instantly unsafe the second you put it on something not bio-compatible lol. like all things that react chemically (that's what is happening when lack 3 hardens) there will be materials you shouldnt use it on. pla and abs etc tho should be totally fine.

 

[BadgerMcBadger]

well, lack 3 is specifically designed to cover non bio-compatible things with a skin-safe coating, so unless it has a chemical reaction with an incompatible material and breaks down for some reason, it will be fine. it doesnt just become instantly unsafe the second you put it on something not bio-compatible lol. like all things that react chemically (that's what is happening when lack 3 hardens) there will be materials you shouldnt use it on. pla and abs etc tho should be totally fine.

oh, i did not know it. he might have said that i regards to someother lacquer type

 

[talyak]

anyone tried the new rlq-34240 dual diaphragm woofer from knowles?
might order a pair when i get the rau supertweeters.

 

[GeneBush]

anyone tried the new rlq-34240 dual diaphragm woofer from knowles?
might order a pair when i get the rau supertweeters.

Hey man where did you find the Rau from knowles? Any link will be appreciated!
Thnx in advance!

 

[musmecca]

anyone tried the new rlq-34240 dual diaphragm woofer from knowles?
might order a pair when i get the rau supertweeters.

I actually have the RDI-33438's on order from Digi-key. Specs look like a Sonion 38 which is good news as Digikey doesn't sell Sonion. I'll keep you posted.

 

[BadgerMcBadger]

would there be a problem in using a light source that is both 405nm and 365 nm to cure fotoplast?

 

[talyak]

Hey man where did you find the Rau from knowles? Any link will be appreciated!
Thnx in advance!

so far the only place ive found is this taobao store. youll need to use a service like superbuy to get it if you arent in china tho. you can also get the rlq there if you are wanting to do some experimentation with some of knowles' latest drivers. (edit: order at your own risk. i cant yet confirm these are legitimate drivers from knowles and not some knock offs, and have yet to order them myself, so i cant confirm the fr and impedance matches the knowles spec sheet)

rau:
https://world.taobao.com/item/692448657954.htm?spm=a21wu.11804641-tw.shop-content.23.f7f6606ffAYhuZ
rlq:
https://world.taobao.com/item/69259...12321156-tw.recommend-bottom.6.39ef25692qdv3Y

I actually have the RDI-33438's on order from Digi-key. Specs look like a Sonion 38 which is good news as Digikey doesn't sell Sonion. I'll keep you posted.

interesting. that one looks cool. is that knowles first bass focused dual driver?

the rlq is a dual diaphragm in one driver design, not a double driver design. so im really curious to see how it performs, especially as it seems to have a fairly low-end focused fr in such a small unit (the diagonal size is 4.4mm as apposed to the rdi's 6.4mm).

 

[talyak]

im mostly just curious about the new drivers cos most ba iems just remix the same few drivers from the past few years. i feel like thats part of why the high-end iem market hasnt had much innovation in the past few years. the only real way to innovate is to modify/make new bas or switch to hybrid/tribrid setups. like, the u12t has been basically end-game for what, 5+ years now? 64 audio have done barely anything new since the introduction of the tia driver. and they are still some of the best iems period. moondrop themselves have said that they havent updated the s8 cos they cant really make any improvements on it. symphonium and subtonic seem to be pushing the envelope with ba bass. but short of dismantling the helios or (heavens forbid) the storm its gonna be hard to replicate that in a DIY build.
edit: (plus i got size requirements that most large shell designs wont match)

 

[stegeoc]

yeah, its probably mostly fine, given a lot of people do their nails on a regular basis with those things. the downside of course is that they are very small for anything larger than an iem.

the reason id rather not use lacquer is more about ease of creation than anything else. with my chronic pain i can only do so much in a day, so i tend to try to min-max for doing things with as little physical work as possible. tho i currently only have an fdm printer, so lacquer is gonna be necessary once i get my impressions done, and am building ciem designs.


thanks! thats really helpful

Lacquer is really quite remarkable in the way it makes even the roughest and messiest shells look fantastic very quickly. Far far easier than sanding and polishing smooth. And if you airbrush (or dip even) you'll get it done even quicker.

Getting a 100% professional glass look with a clear shell still alludes me, but anything coloured or tinted will be near perfect with minimal effort. Use it!