Home-Made IEMs
Apr 25, 2022 at 4:05 PM Post #13,921 of 16,072
Apr 26, 2022 at 12:29 AM Post #13,922 of 16,072
GV done. Made quite a few mistakes again, but I’m happy with the result and have been enjoying the sound after a bit of tweaking/damper rolling.

20220421_102840.jpg


This spurred me to think about fixing/improving some UM3X reshells that lost their bass some time ago and have been consigned to the back of the drawer. I cracked them open and (after fixing the wiring that all got pulled out) found them to be working fine, so I put new tubes on and they sound much better, even without properly reassembling. It seems the problem was leaky tubes (on both sides).

Anyway, before putting them back together I was wondering if I should add one of more RAB 32257s that I have. I think there is room for 2 or even 4 of those on each side. Any thoughts?

The UM3X unit (CI-22955 + TWFK-30017) is about 120 dB/mW and 46 ohms, RAB is about 112dB and average 48 ohms. I'm not sure if those measurements are comparable though.

Would something like (RAB + RAB) in parallel with (UM3X + RAB) make an interesting mix? From what I understand the RABs are pretty much full range so there should be a lot of room for error.

My soldering skills are pretty awful so the chance of success drastically reduces the more complicated it gets, but I’m up for a challenge! Cheers
 
Apr 26, 2022 at 11:39 AM Post #13,923 of 16,072
How do I make faceplates? I have the shells ready but if I just try putting some fotoplast on glass and exposing it to UV it stays sticky on top, thought the problem were the alcohol dyes or acrylic inks I tried but even plain fotoplast behaves the same, not sure what to do
 
Apr 26, 2022 at 12:23 PM Post #13,924 of 16,072
How do I make faceplates? I have the shells ready but if I just try putting some fotoplast on glass and exposing it to UV it stays sticky on top, thought the problem were the alcohol dyes or acrylic inks I tried but even plain fotoplast behaves the same, not sure what to do
I also struggled with faceplates, but you can do what you do with the shell and dump it in glycerin (after it is mostly cured) and carry on curing
 
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Apr 26, 2022 at 9:00 PM Post #13,930 of 16,072
Ok, I'll try a second cure with glycerine/glysol, thanks!
Sandwich the resin between two pieces of glass. Glycerine will give you ripples. OR, cure it out longer and then a sonic bath in 99% IPA for 10-15 minutes. Wipe down with a clean cloth.

the easiest is sandwiching between glass. I use a pieces of a cut up old credit card for proper thickness. If the resin sandwiched is too thick, the glass becomes harder to separate.
 
Apr 27, 2022 at 1:07 AM Post #13,931 of 16,072
I just pour in glass, cure it a bit to a proper solid, just wipe of the inhibition layer and slap it on the shell and adhere it. Once trimmed I'll pour on the faceplate another layer of resin. That would give it a nice flat but a but domed faceplate. Sandwiching resin in between glass is a method I'll use if I need to engrave something on the faceplate. Having a smooth top makes it easier to fill in the engraved parts.
 
Apr 27, 2022 at 5:42 AM Post #13,932 of 16,072
Sandwich the resin between two pieces of glass. Glycerine will give you ripples. OR, cure it out longer and then a sonic bath in 99% IPA for 10-15 minutes. Wipe down with a clean cloth.

the easiest is sandwiching between glass. I use a pieces of a cut up old credit card for proper thickness. If the resin sandwiched is too thick, the glass becomes harder to separate.
That sounds like a very good way (and an easy one) to have the same thickness for faceplates and oxygen-free curing, just need to find another piece of glass that fits in my curing chamber and I'll try this first, thank you!
 
Apr 27, 2022 at 5:44 AM Post #13,933 of 16,072
I just pour in glass, cure it a bit to a proper solid, just wipe of the inhibition layer and slap it on the shell and adhere it. Once trimmed I'll pour on the faceplate another layer of resin. That would give it a nice flat but a but domed faceplate. Sandwiching resin in between glass is a method I'll use if I need to engrave something on the faceplate. Having a smooth top makes it easier to fill in the engraved parts.
Haven't tried cleaning it, is ipa ok? Composition seems similar to sla resins. Makes sense if that works tho, I'd have to use lack3 on top regardless.

Ipa worked fine, it's now matte but I think lack3/5k sandpaper will make it shine, now I just need to find a nice color to use, thank you very much again
 
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Apr 27, 2022 at 10:33 AM Post #13,934 of 16,072
Just out of curiosity here, - but has anyone just made a single BA ciem that has the same frequency response as a Ety ER4XR?
What driver have you used? My best guess would be Knowles RAB-32257-000? but would I be wrong?

Also, I have measured my ER4XR on a minidsp,- the mesurements look "corret", - could I be able to use the mesurements as a reference or do they need to be made on something else?
 

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