[swtnate]

Anyone have experience using Smaart V8 with a professional audio interface?

Recently bought this to sow up FR discrepancies between right and left ears for custom molded IEMs.

https://millerai.com/shop/miemi-m-complete-kit

I am not familiar with Smaart and my understanding is that its dual-channel as opposed to the mono-channel ive been using for driver tuning (REW/ FuzzMeasure). I have a 7 year old Scarlett Solo. I loathe the finicky mic-preamps included with them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I totally rely on IEC711 coupler, measure the FR and making the fine tuning, very time consuming. I'm still a learner. I think @dhruvmeena96 can answer your question, he is PRO

Oi oi oi
Bro lmao

@TheLastAurora
About dynamics and dampers.. its kinda the thing that can you hear dynamics getting effected. Dynamics is ability to hear the difference between loudest and lowest note together and make sense out of it

About why i prefer doing RC and Even LC cross over on DD is to limit its signal and increase its power handling, which kinda give me more headroom for power

But you can use damper also, mostly you won't hear difference.. only where you go too loud and power is too much, thats where your DD will distort in damper spec and it wont in crossover spec

Best advice, use both
Best sound, dont use damper(but can you fit that much circuit)
Worst sound, too much damping on all the driver and not using crossover

 

[mckpaul]

Hello from Texas, been lurking here for about a year and reading...and searching...and reading. I've been collecting supplies/tools etc to make a set of iem's, or more accurately a set or two...or three. After a number or tries, I've got impressions that I'm happy with, trimmed and slow-dremmel sanded to the shape that I feel will render a good shell (had to teach myself not to over trim and sand in reference to where the faceplate goes).

Over the weekend I plan to make the clear investments with Specialty Resin Cast-a-mold silicone rubber and will be ready for a first test run of the UV Resin. I'll be using Fotoplast S/IO. I've read and searched and watched videos, but I wanted to confirm that I understand something correctly. I haven't seen any mention of using a releasing agent in the silicone molds prior to pouring the UV resin in the molds. I did read in a couple of threads that the shell comes out of the investment somewhat tacky or greasy, with various discussions of glycerin or alcohol baths and soap and water clean up. So if I under stand correctly, no releasing agent is needed, maybe because the Fotoplast cures with kind of a natural tacky outer shell finish that will release from the investment?

This site amazes me with the amount of content and great information. Also amazing is seeing discussion from people all over the world.

 

[musmecca]

The SUV s

Hello from Texas, been lurking here for about a year and reading...and searching...and reading. I've been collecting supplies/tools etc to make a set of iem's, or more accurately a set or two...or three. After a number or tries, I've got impressions that I'm happy with, trimmed and slow-dremmel sanded to the shape that I feel will render a good shell (had to teach myself not to over trim and sand in reference to where the faceplate goes).

Over the weekend I plan to make the clear investments with Specialty Resin Cast-a-mold silicone rubber and will be ready for a first test run of the UV Resin. I'll be using Fotoplast S/IO. I've read and searched and watched videos, but I wanted to confirm that I understand something correctly. I haven't seen any mention of using a releasing agent in the silicone molds prior to pouring the UV resin in the molds. I did read in a couple of threads that the shell comes out of the investment somewhat tacky or greasy, with various discussions of glycerin or alcohol baths and soap and water clean up. So if I under stand correctly, no releasing agent is needed, maybe because the Fotoplast cures with kind of a natural tacky outer shell finish that will release from the investment?

This site amazes me with the amount of content and great information. Also amazing is seeing discussion from people all over the world.

The shell will release from the mold without any releasing agents. Be careful and take your time so as not to rip your form. There is a tacky/greasy layer called the "inhibition" layer that forms on the surface of the shell due to the presence of oxygen. Simply place your shell in a clear glass of glycerin...make sure there are NO BUBBLES...as this will cause lines in your shell, then UV for another few minutes to cure the layer. Don't over cure as you can yellow the IEM and sometimes render it too brittle depending on coloration. I use a paint can lined with an led strip for this part...

 

[mckpaul]

Thanks for the response and all good to know. That definitely reinforces what my assumptions were and makes me feel better about the process. The Fotoplast is kind of expensive, and I know I'll already have some experimenting to do with exposure times and will probably trash a few shells in the process, so that takes one more unknown out of the process.

I have a typical fingernail drying light with four 9w bulbs, it says it's 365nm, which I think matches the requirements of Fotoplast. I've also been reading up on the difference of 365nm vs 405nm lights. It seems 365 is a whiter light, at least visibly, and the higher you go the more purple the light becomes. I really like the layout of your light. Do you know the wave length of the LED lights you used, and do you know if it works on Fotoplast? (I already have the Fotoplast resin) Was it a strip of LEDs you did that with?

Also I just ran across a post by Shilohsjustice on page 279 (post #4176) mentioning that instead of dipping his impressions in while making the investment process, he instead started coating the ear impressions with Dreve Laquer and it creates a smoother surface in the investment than the waxed impression does which in turn makes a smoother finish shell.

 

[musmecca]

I bough the UV light strip off of ebay and my basic finish setup is a nail lamp like yours...I honestly can't remember the Nm wavelength. I did drill a hole in the bottom of the nail setup...the little slide out tray, and put a mirror on a platform attached to a motor. It spins the shell/vestments until they cure, ensuring even finishes. I have not coated my silicone with laq, as I didn't have a spray rig to do it....I just happened to get one so I may try that to see. I had no problems with waxing regardless...just remember the colder the wax gets, the thicker the layer and the tighter the ultimate fit...the warmer and thinner, the smaller the wax layer and the looser the fit....I always got my wax temp precise and used the pink dental wax....

 

[mckpaul]

Yep, I also bought one of the little light powered rotating platform. Haven't done it yet, but plan to drill the hole in the foil covered bottom panel and raise the nail drier up on small wood blocks and put the rotating motor underneath and the platform inside. A mirror on the platform is a great idea, thanks for the tip.

Will keep the wax temp tip in mind as well. I'm just anxious to get to the point of getting a hand made UV shell in my ear to see how it fits lol

Thanks again for the input!

 

[swtnate]

I bough the UV light strip off of ebay and my basic finish setup is a nail lamp like yours...I honestly can't remember the Nm wavelength. I did drill a hole in the bottom of the nail setup...the little slide out tray, and put a mirror on a platform attached to a motor. It spins the shell/vestments until they cure, ensuring even finishes. I have not coated my silicone with laq, as I didn't have a spray rig to do it....I just happened to get one so I may try that to see. I had no problems with waxing regardless...just remember the colder the wax gets, the thicker the layer and the tighter the ultimate fit...the warmer and thinner, the smaller the wax layer and the looser the fit....I always got my wax temp precise and used the pink dental wax....

Couple of things just so you can keep everything categorized correct.

bubbles in the glycerine will cause dimples in and on the inhibition layer. Theyre a DEVIL to get out. If it happens, better to just wait it out. the bubbles will rise.

after the initial curing of the shell, be very gentle as to not break the the airtight seal between the shell and mold. If that is disturbed too significantly and it hasnt had too much initial cure time, you will get ridges where the air pockets formed, forcing a recast or hella buff out work.

you can Dreve Lack B, silicone lacquer on all prepped impressions. Spraying isnt necessary. In fact, theres only 2 spray rated coatings in the industry. I use Lack B in my work flow. Looks something like this…
1) i clean off my initial impressions with soap and water. Then I dip it in 99% isopropyl and blow dry.

2) next, i dip the untouched impression into a 185°F (90°ish C) pot of YETI Perci-Dip. Slow in and slow out with the impression. Typically I go in canal first and out canal first.

3) then I duplicate the waxed impression using the Hydrocolloid recipe I posted. I wax the impression to the bottom of a ceramic plate. Then, i dip the top of a disposable coffee cup into the wax, placing the cup over the impression and sealing the cup to the ceramic. By using YETI Dip, your colloid can be poured at 135-140° without effecting the mold, IF you let it cool it for 10-20 minutes.

4) once that is hardened out, i then shoot silicone impression material into the colloid creating an exact match to the original. Its also MUCH easier to identify what needs to get buffed and what doesnt. Once its all trimmed and buffed out, wash with soap and watef, dip in iso, and blow dry. I let it rest for about a half hour to insure there is NO residual left behind.

5) once dry, I dip the impressions in Dreve Lack B And shake/ spin off the excess silicone coating. Allow to dry for 45 minutes. I put 3 dip coats of Silicone lacquer.

6) Final step is to wax the impression to the plate, place on the investment cuff, and pour in freshly mixed fotosil for a permanent casting of the ear piece shell. Once poured, the investment is immediately placed into a pressure pot at 60psi to turn the airpockets into microscopic dots.

I wouldnt rely solely on silicone lacquer to smooth-out your impressions. If you do, it WILL take at LEAST 12 coats. Last time I counted.

if you struggle with wax dipping, find another wax. Ive used almost every type of parraffin candle wax I could find. Every single type was way too thin or left drips at any temperature.

 

[mattmatt]

Couple of things just so you can keep everything categorized correct.

bubbles in the glycerine will cause dimples in and on the inhibition layer. Theyre a DEVIL to get out. If it happens, better to just wait it out. the bubbles will rise.

after the initial curing of the shell, be very gentle as to not break the the airtight seal between the shell and mold. If that is disturbed too significantly and it hasnt had too much initial cure time, you will get ridges where the air pockets formed, forcing a recast or hella buff out work.

you can Dreve Lack B, silicone lacquer on all prepped impressions. Spraying isnt necessary. In fact, theres only 2 spray rated coatings in the industry. I use Lack B in my work flow. Looks something like this…
1) i clean off my initial impressions with soap and water. Then I dip it in 99% isopropyl and blow dry.

2) next, i dip the untouched impression into a 185°F (90°ish C) pot of YETI Perci-Dip. Slow in and slow out with the impression. Typically I go in canal first and out canal first.

3) then I duplicate the waxed impression using the Hydrocolloid recipe I posted. I wax the impression to the bottom of a ceramic plate. Then, i dip the top of a disposable coffee cup into the wax, placing the cup over the impression and sealing the cup to the ceramic. By using YETI Dip, your colloid can be poured at 135-140° without effecting the mold, IF you let it cool it for 10-20 minutes.

4) once that is hardened out, i then shoot silicone impression material into the colloid creating an exact match to the original. Its also MUCH easier to identify what needs to get buffed and what doesnt. Once its all trimmed and buffed out, wash with soap and watef, dip in iso, and blow dry. I let it rest for about a half hour to insure there is NO residual left behind.

5) once dry, I dip the impressions in Dreve Lack B And shake/ spin off the excess silicone coating. Allow to dry for 45 minutes. I put 3 dip coats of Silicone lacquer.

6) Final step is to wax the impression to the plate, place on the investment cuff, and pour in freshly mixed fotosil for a permanent casting of the ear piece shell. Once poured, the investment is immediately placed into a pressure pot at 60psi to turn the airpockets into microscopic dots.

I wouldnt rely solely on silicone lacquer to smooth-out your impressions. If you do, it WILL take at LEAST 12 coats. Last time I counted.

if you struggle with wax dipping, find another wax. Ive used almost every type of parraffin candle wax I could find. Every single type was way too thin or left drips at any temperature.

Wax used for denture making works wonders. Dip the trimmed impressions at 60C and you're golden.

Tho I don't trim and wax my impressions now. I scan them and digitally model them and print them as "impressions" which I then pour my colloid to. Longer and more expensive process but a lot more repeatable.

 

[mckpaul]

"then I duplicate the waxed impression using the Hydrocolloid recipe I posted" - I've run across and read that post with the recipe. At the moment, I have some two part Specialty Resin Cast-a-mold silicone rubber that is supposed to be clear enough for UV light.

I've read post for both vacuum and pressure for reducing bubbles in the investment material. I had kind of a humorous experience over the past weekend. Before finding videos on the proper way to apply vacuum to remove air ( let it rise up and then collapse in on itself ) I tried a vacuum experiment. I have an old pressure cooker and a vacuum pump for AC work and rigged up a vacuum chamber with hose and a valve and a vacuum gauge. However, in my inexperience and ignorance, I made several major mistakes. First, the Cast-a-mold takes 8 hours to cure, but the instructions said if it was heated to 150 degrees it would cure in about 30 minutes, but wasn't very clear about when to heat it. In hind site I realized what they meant heat the investment cups to 150 degrees after pouring to speed up the curing time, but I heated the two separate parts to 150 degrees prior to mixing and pouring. Then I thought I'd remove any possible bubbles from the investment material after pouring in over the impressions. So I put the impressions in the investment cups, mixed and poured the (incorrectly previously heated) Cast-a-mold over the impressions (investment cups filled all the way to the top), set the cups in my home made vacuum chamber (that of course doesn't have a window) and pulled it down to about 29 inches of vacuum and let it sit for about 3 minutes. Needless to say, the Cast-a-mold, that was already starting to thicken because it was heated, still managed to bubble up and out of the cups creating a big sloppy mess leaving the cups half empty and mounds of bubbly rubber all over the bottom of the chamber. It was frustrating but couldn't help but laugh at the outcome. Later when I found videos of degassing liquid silicone rubber and how it reacts under vacuum I realized the err of my ways.

Anyway, thanks for the input, you've both given me things to consider as I move forward.

 

[swtnate]

"then I duplicate the waxed impression using the Hydrocolloid recipe I posted" - I've run across and read that post with the recipe. At the moment, I have some two part Specialty Resin Cast-a-mold silicone rubber that is supposed to be clear enough for UV light.

I've read post for both vacuum and pressure for reducing bubbles in the investment material. I had kind of a humorous experience over the past weekend. Before finding videos on the proper way to apply vacuum to remove air ( let it rise up and then collapse in on itself ) I tried a vacuum experiment. I have an old pressure cooker and a vacuum pump for AC work and rigged up a vacuum chamber with hose and a valve and a vacuum gauge. However, in my inexperience and ignorance, I made several major mistakes. First, the Cast-a-mold takes 8 hours to cure, but the instructions said if it was heated to 150 degrees it would cure in about 30 minutes, but wasn't very clear about when to heat it. In hind site I realized what they meant heat the investment cups to 150 degrees after pouring to speed up the curing time, but I heated the two separate parts to 150 degrees prior to mixing and pouring. Then I thought I'd remove any possible bubbles from the investment material after pouring in over the impressions. So I put the impressions in the investment cups, mixed and poured the (incorrectly previously heated) Cast-a-mold over the impressions (investment cups filled all the way to the top), set the cups in my home made vacuum chamber (that of course doesn't have a window) and pulled it down to about 29 inches of vacuum and let it sit for about 3 minutes. Needless to say, the Cast-a-mold, that was already starting to thicken because it was heated, still managed to bubble up and out of the cups creating a big sloppy mess leaving the cups half empty and mounds of bubbly rubber all over the bottom of the chamber. It was frustrating but couldn't help but laugh at the outcome. Later when I found videos of degassing liquid silicone rubber and how it reacts under vacuum I realized the err of my ways.

Anyway, thanks for the input, you've both given me things to consider as I move forward.

Just remember, try to use medical grade biocompatible products. Never use UV nail polish and/or epoxies of any kind. Im always here to help.

 

[TheLastAurora]

Whats the difference between the SWFK 31736 and the 61835?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Whats the difference between the SWFK 31736 and the 61835?

Both are same
One is used by Ultimate ears

 

[swtnate]

Whats the difference between the SWFK 31736 and the 61835?

One is $5 cheaper on aliexpress

 

[TheLastAurora]

Someone stepped on my BGVP VG4... So here are it's internals. It uses 2x green dampers, the 29689 and the 33518 is glued together in a 2mm ID and the 33AJ 1mm ID. Very interesting. Someone could try crossing these over and graphing to see if they match at all