Home-Made IEMs
Jul 11, 2021 at 4:40 PM Post #13,006 of 16,107
Original :clin d'œil: ça ressemble à la résine
Could really use som advice on how to fit the tiny yellow dampers (1.12mm) in a 1mm ID tube without crushing them. I managed a few but most gets ruined.
Any experience on this?

Also need to get hold of some UV glue. Witch one do you use?
I use a toothpick but I cut the sharp end to make a dish, I grab the shock absorber and I press it with the flat toothpick.
 
Jul 11, 2021 at 5:30 PM Post #13,007 of 16,107
Original :clin d'œil: ça ressemble à la résine

I use a toothpick but I cut the sharp end to make a dish, I grab the shock absorber and I press it with the flat toothpick.
I have used the back side of a 1.1mm drill bit but the problem is that the damper often turns sideways inside the tube. And there’s no way to save it then… maybe I’ll try a toothpick.

what kind of glue do you use on tubes?
 
Jul 12, 2021 at 5:06 AM Post #13,012 of 16,107
What equipment, parts and info do I need to make my own IEM and headphone cables?

I find virtually all the cables on my headphones too long as I often use portable DACs on my shirt lapels, top pockets and at my desk.

I now have to make cables which whose maximum length is around my sternum, and I need them for MMCX, 0.78mm, 2.5mm, 3.5mm and what nots.

Proprietary cables also need to be shortened and as I am not ready to open the housings, I have to cut them short, and attach 3.5 socket or whatever connector type is appropriate to them.

So, where do I start?

What tools and parts do I need and what stores and suppliers have them?
 
Jul 12, 2021 at 6:09 AM Post #13,013 of 16,107
What equipment, parts and info do I need to make my own IEM and headphone cables?

I find virtually all the cables on my headphones too long as I often use portable DACs on my shirt lapels, top pockets and at my desk.

I now have to make cables which whose maximum length is around my sternum, and I need them for MMCX, 0.78mm, 2.5mm, 3.5mm and what nots.

Proprietary cables also need to be shortened and as I am not ready to open the housings, I have to cut them short, and attach 3.5 socket or whatever connector type is appropriate to them.

So, where do I start?

What tools and parts do I need and what stores and suppliers have them?
For IEMs I'll help you. Shoot me a PM! Anyone who likes Oluv is cool😂👍
 
Jul 13, 2021 at 4:23 AM Post #13,014 of 16,107
Heat shrink tubing is also good for this, find one that the un shrunk diameter fits on the body of the BA, 3:1 works best but 2:1 can also work, try to find thin wall if possible. First shrink a length of the tube separately (DO NOT heat the BA with the tube around it) and then UV glue or B7000 the tube to the BA body

This is 2x dual 32257 with tweezer expanded tube (1mm ID) and a 31736 with heat shrink tube pre shrunk and UV glued as described above (1.5 or 2mm ID after shrinking, sorry I don't recall exactly, just see what fits.)

20210207_233527.jpg

Tubing is cheap, grab a lot of different options so you have stuff to work with.
Which UV glue do you use? I have tried several and they just don't fully harden or not sticking the tube in place properly...
 
Jul 13, 2021 at 9:32 AM Post #13,015 of 16,107
First post but MAN, this has been an INVALUABLE resource. Ohhhhh, the amount of learning and investment to learning this industry. Im all in! From lab equipment, to drivers, and beyond. So, I thought Id pay a little bit of it back. Theres been many posts about hydrocolloid. One thing that I love about is how replaceable it is. One thing I hate about it is how EXPENSIVE it can be. 6kg of Egger is over $200 and Krystalloid is a bit better but not as forgiving and the dreve lacks tinsel strength upon impression removal. Ive gone through countless hours figuring this out and gave up no less than 5 times. Until, I read the Krystalloid MSDS. While this doesnt give the recipe, upon further reading on the effects Agar reacting with ethylene glycol, I had another starting point. I finally recreated, in my opinion, an improved Krystalloid. This is still reversable. All the items can be purchased from Amazon or from a chemistry supply house. One thing is imperative to have, and that is a reliable food/ gram scale.

this is the recipe for a 500g batch.
125g - propylene gycol
125g- ethylene glycol
15g - vegetable glycerine
5g - Agar Agar Powder (NOT THE FLAKES)
1g - Borax (not essential but seems to help with mold strength)
230g - filtered water

1) mix all the liquids together at room temperature.
2) add the Agar Agar. Using a whisk, stir in the Agar to the mixture. Let soak in solution for minimum of ten minutes. I like to use a stand-up mixer during the entirety of the soak time. HOWEVER, BE CAREFUL! ETHYLENE GLYCOL IS WHAT MAKES ANTI-FREEZE AND SHOULD NOT EVER BE INGESTED. Clean-up well with dish soap and water. I wash everything 3 times. Lol.
3) pour solution into a small cooking pot. Set the cooking temperature to LOW or 1. Allow to come to temperature. Stirring often.
4) increase cooking temperature to MEDIUM. Monitor temperature very closely with an infrared thermometer. Solution should NEVER come to a boil. Continue stirring as often as possible. The agar is not into solution YET. The mixture should be very cloudy when you stir.
5) This process can take up to 20-30 minutes, if not longer. Once you are able to stir the mixture and the cloudiness doesnt reappear then the agar has been absorbed into solution. Leave on stable heat (90-95°C) for an additional 15 minutes.
6. Pour i to separate container and allow to cool at room temperature. You will notice that it will stay rather thinly viscous even at lower temperature. Once it is at about room temperature, place into the refrigerator for one hour. Then you are ready to GO!

FOR REHEATING:
1) Cut/ chop the solidfied agar into small squares. The finer the chop the easier it will melt. Place into a small glass bowl that is microwave safe.
2) heat in the microwave for 2 minutes at 10-20% power. Monitor through the window during the melting process.
3) once complete, stirr the colloid slowly for 30 seconds to evenly dosperse the hotter and cooler liquids in the mixture. Allow the rest a total of 90 seconds while stirring. Repeat steps 2-3 until mixture is completely liquified and there are no lumps.
Optional: after the melting process is complete, I dont stir the solution. My microwave has a “warm and hold” setting. I press the warm and hold button and allow it to warm/ equalize for 5-10 minutes, depending on the amount of colloid. Also, if you go TOO long a film/skin will form on the top of the colloid (kinda like queso). You can easily remove it with a large spoon.
4) let cool to 115F and then slowly pour with the stream no wider than a pencil and the container as close to the investment form as possible.

this recipe is a little thinner than most (almost Dreve fotogel viscosity but WAY thinner than the nicefit). Small bubbles will NORMALLY escape no problem. I use a chemistry plastic disposable pipette to remove large bubbles.
I've never used Krystalloid and not sure how to use them. Used egger and nicefit. Just wondering, does the ethyl glycol reacts as a retarder for the agar? Been trying to recreate hydro colloids but I always get the same result as gelatin which is not ideal, where it hardens quickly from top to bottom and still warm(hot) to the touch unlike commercial colloids where it cools down pretty good but still remain liquid, no skin forming at the top of the mixture, viscosity depending on the temperature.
 
Jul 13, 2021 at 2:37 PM Post #13,016 of 16,107
Which UV glue do you use? I have tried several and they just don't fully harden or not sticking the tube in place properly...
Hey, I use the cheapest crystal clear uv resin I could find for tubing and it works like a charm. For everything that could touch my ear I'd rather use some medical grade stuff but since everything is inside the shell I have no problem with using simple uv resin.
The resin sticks nicely to metal and the tubes and I can always remove it with a scalpel/tweezers and some patience.
 
Jul 13, 2021 at 4:31 PM Post #13,018 of 16,107
Hey, I use the cheapest crystal clear uv resin I could find for tubing and it works like a charm. For everything that could touch my ear I'd rather use some medical grade stuff but since everything is inside the shell I have no problem with using simple uv resin.
The resin sticks nicely to metal and the tubes and I can always remove it with a scalpel/tweezers and some patience.
Can you PM me the name or link? I had trouble finding a cost efficient alternative, only expensive stuff. thank you!
 
Jul 13, 2021 at 10:31 PM Post #13,019 of 16,107
Hey, I use the cheapest crystal clear uv resin I could find for tubing and it works like a charm. For everything that could touch my ear I'd rather use some medical grade stuff but since everything is inside the shell I have no problem with using simple uv resin.
The resin sticks nicely to metal and the tubes and I can always remove it with a scalpel/tweezers and some patience.
Where did you get your resin from? I have tried several and none of them really worked out for me sadly. I have some nail polish remover alike that work quite well to remove the resin thou.
Got my uv glue from a friend, not sure on the details. And so far I'm just using universal plastic shells

I am trying to make a Y tubing with heat shrink and some 2mm ID tubes but they just don't stick together firmly enough by the glue. Guess I will need to buy more UV glue to experiment with then.
 
Jul 14, 2021 at 4:45 AM Post #13,020 of 16,107
Where did you get your resin from? I have tried several and none of them really worked out for me sadly. I have some nail polish remover alike that work quite well to remove the resin thou.


I am trying to make a Y tubing with heat shrink and some 2mm ID tubes but they just don't stick together firmly enough by the glue. Guess I will need to buy more UV glue to experiment with then.
I'm using a generic uv resin from Amazon. It's nothing special at all. I'll shoot you a pm with a link.
 

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