Home-Made IEMs
Jul 7, 2021 at 5:55 PM Post #12,976 of 16,112
how would this be of benefit as opposed to a bread board?
It's useful if you don't want to solder to TRS cables and just use some you have laying around, be able to use them again for other things. Also I don't have a breadboard and shipping at Mouser for a single precision resistor was more than this whole box. It's a bit more robust for lab use too, which I like. You can also measure other headphone drivers which are still in their headphones with these TRS jacks, just plug the headphone in.
 
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Jul 7, 2021 at 6:00 PM Post #12,977 of 16,112
Hi together!

Looking for a good way to make a white shell. I got the Fotoplast in different color which I can mix together and the color concentrates which I got of Dreve. Also they offer a black Fotoplast version. But how gettin a white shell as easy as possible and looking good? Any experience with tattoo color or pigments ESPECIALLY for a nice white tone?

Thank you!
I use the white from Pro3dure. It will not amber out at lower UV spectrum exposure. As far as making your own, I've tried a NUMBER of different things. One major problem you will encounter is getting titanium dioxide that is finely ground enough. you need it to be ultra refined to stay in suspension AND not look like sediment caught in the resin. The absolute best results I ever had was using triple ground Titanium Dioxide. Some India inks will work but they can cause excessive foaming when mixing. Also, you may want to look at getting a small vacuum chamber. This way you can pull the air from the resin before the pigment load has time to settle out. I get bubble free resin after 15 minutes in the chamber following a good mix or shake. Usually it would take 3-4 hours. Just be sure to cover the vacuum chamber. The top resin will begin to cure in the absence of oxygen. Especially the lower spectrum Dreve/Egger/ Nicefit resins.
 
Jul 7, 2021 at 6:17 PM Post #12,978 of 16,112
Alright, so I'm trying to calculate some Zobel networks to see how they will effect/ improve current build recipes. However, there is no spec listing the nominal voice coil inductance for these drivers. I realize voice coil inductance is dynamic, just like impedance. But, you'd think there would be at least something to use a reference point. RAB is the only driver I see that lists inductance.
Anyone have this information for popular drivers OR are you just solving for coil inductance by using driver impedance and driver DCR?
 
Jul 7, 2021 at 6:47 PM Post #12,979 of 16,112
how would this be of benefit as opposed to a bread board?
not to be a wet a blanket, but we're only talking about 1st order BU crossovers AT MOST. And a single series resistor is just lowering the overall volume. The crossover slope (only for the series capacitor to a tweeter or mid-driver) is so gradual it's almost negligible. Fine tuning a driver and sound stage development doesn't come from components. It comes from tubing length, tubing diameter, horn placement, & damper placement within the tube. Are you attempting 2nd and 3rd order designs? If so, be mindful of transient sounds (Ie snares, drums, etc.). With the 180 degree phase shift, transients will echo as the frequency overlaps with multiple drivers. If you need more tweeter, move it closer, and use a wider tube. If you need less tweeter either move it back or use a series resistor or L-pad. Anyway, you have me intrigued at what you are attempting. would love to know more.
 
Jul 7, 2021 at 6:53 PM Post #12,980 of 16,112
First post but MAN, this has been an INVALUABLE resource. Ohhhhh, the amount of learning and investment to learning this industry. Im all in! From lab equipment, to drivers, and beyond. So, I thought Id pay a little bit of it back. Theres been many posts about hydrocolloid. One thing that I love about is how replaceable it is. One thing I hate about it is how EXPENSIVE it can be. 6kg of Egger is over $200 and Krystalloid is a bit better but not as forgiving and the dreve lacks tinsel strength upon impression removal. Ive gone through countless hours figuring this out and gave up no less than 5 times. Until, I read the Krystalloid MSDS. While this doesnt give the recipe, upon further reading on the effects Agar reacting with ethylene glycol, I had another starting point. I finally recreated, in my opinion, an improved Krystalloid. This is still reversable. All the items can be purchased from Amazon or from a chemistry supply house. One thing is imperative to have, and that is a reliable food/ gram scale.

this is the recipe for a 500g batch.
125g - propylene gycol
125g- ethylene glycol
15g - vegetable glycerine
5g - Agar Agar Powder (NOT THE FLAKES)
1g - Borax (not essential but seems to help with mold strength)
230g - filtered water

1) mix all the liquids together at room temperature.
2) add the Agar Agar. Using a whisk, stir in the Agar to the mixture. Let soak in solution for minimum of ten minutes. I like to use a stand-up mixer during the entirety of the soak time. HOWEVER, BE CAREFUL! ETHYLENE GLYCOL IS WHAT MAKES ANTI-FREEZE AND SHOULD NOT EVER BE INGESTED. Clean-up well with dish soap and water. I wash everything 3 times. Lol.
3) pour solution into a small cooking pot. Set the cooking temperature to LOW or 1. Allow to come to temperature. Stirring often.
4) increase cooking temperature to MEDIUM. Monitor temperature very closely with an infrared thermometer. Solution should NEVER come to a boil. Continue stirring as often as possible. The agar is not into solution YET. The mixture should be very cloudy when you stir.
5) This process can take up to 20-30 minutes, if not longer. Once you are able to stir the mixture and the cloudiness doesnt reappear then the agar has been absorbed into solution. Leave on stable heat (90-95°C) for an additional 15 minutes.
6. Pour i to separate container and allow to cool at room temperature. You will notice that it will stay rather thinly viscous even at lower temperature. Once it is at about room temperature, place into the refrigerator for one hour. Then you are ready to GO!

FOR REHEATING:
1) Cut/ chop the solidfied agar into small squares. The finer the chop the easier it will melt. Place into a small glass bowl that is microwave safe.
2) heat in the microwave for 2 minutes at 10-20% power. Monitor through the window during the melting process.
3) once complete, stirr the colloid slowly for 30 seconds to evenly dosperse the hotter and cooler liquids in the mixture. Allow the rest a total of 90 seconds while stirring. Repeat steps 2-3 until mixture is completely liquified and there are no lumps.
Optional: after the melting process is complete, I dont stir the solution. My microwave has a “warm and hold” setting. I press the warm and hold button and allow it to warm/ equalize for 5-10 minutes, depending on the amount of colloid. Also, if you go TOO long a film/skin will form on the top of the colloid (kinda like queso). You can easily remove it with a large spoon.
4) let cool to 115F and then slowly pour with the stream no wider than a pencil and the container as close to the investment form as possible.

this recipe is a little thinner than most (almost Dreve fotogel viscosity but WAY thinner than the nicefit). Small bubbles will NORMALLY escape no problem. I use a chemistry plastic disposable pipette to remove large bubbles.
wanted to make an addendum. There is essentially ZERO cure time differences between using this homemade recipe of colloid and the major brand stuff. One thing you will notice, more so if you over heat the colloid mixture, is what's known as weeping. Is basically when your solidified negative form starts to get really wet followed by shrinking up. I always rinse my molds with 99% IPA and place them inside a ziplock bag in the fridge when not in use. allow mold to come to room temp prior to pouring resin or you may get some bubbles.
 
Jul 7, 2021 at 6:59 PM Post #12,981 of 16,112
not to be a wet a blanket, but we're only talking about 1st order BU crossovers AT MOST. And a single series resistor is just lowering the overall volume. The crossover slope (only for the series capacitor to a tweeter or mid-driver) is so gradual it's almost negligible. Fine tuning a driver and sound stage development doesn't come from components. It comes from tubing length, tubing diameter, horn placement, & damper placement within the tube. Are you attempting 2nd and 3rd order designs? If so, be mindful of transient sounds (Ie snares, drums, etc.). With the 180 degree phase shift, transients will echo as the frequency overlaps with multiple drivers. If you need more tweeter, move it closer, and use a wider tube. If you need less tweeter either move it back or use a series resistor or L-pad. Anyway, you have me intrigued at what you are attempting. would love to know more.
Haha I'll tell you more as soon as I am done and have member of the trade on my name :wink:
 
Jul 7, 2021 at 11:41 PM Post #12,982 of 16,112
for stretching tubes I use a thick walled #13 PVC tube, tubing expanders OR tweezers, and a standard blow drier on high heat blowing low air. Soft PVC tubing is highly susceptible to over heating. So be careful. PRO TIP: after heating, continue hold the tubing in the same position while blowing cool or cold air to instantly set the tube in the expanded position.

If you're looking for heat shrink tubing, for instance to protect a PCB or toe wrap a driver, I use FEP heat shrink. I has a much lower shrinking temp. (420F / 215C) that will don't over heat the drivers if they do come in contact with the heating element. HOWEVER, its better to wrap your drivers in thin walled latex tubing or large diameter silicone tubing. This will protect them a little and prevent the tapping sound on the faceplate when they get a little rattled.
Thanks, that's a lot of useful information I think I need a bit of background reading. I think what I have in hand are FEP tubes but the seller didn't specify the type. I am not totally sure what are these #13 PVC tube, latex tubing and large diameter silicone tubing (I think I have some small diameter silicone tubing) and where to get them. Thanks again for the advice.
 
Jul 7, 2021 at 11:53 PM Post #12,983 of 16,112
Just purchased an expensive pair of IEM shells for my custom build and then I kind of feel regret. I have a few pairs of CCA CSN so I think it should be a good idea to extract the drivers and reuse the shell and here is what I've got:

CSN Parts 1.jpg

CSN Parts 2.jpg

You get a pair of 10mm XUN drivers, KZ 30095 and the shells and metal faceplates.

I am thinking this may be a better and cheaper idea (around USD10-15) than getting empty shells thou you will need to do the extra work to extract the DD which is fine for me. However, I don't want all my IEMs to look the same. Just wonder if it is possible to decorate the faceplate with resin or something to hide the CCA logo?
 
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Jul 8, 2021 at 12:31 AM Post #12,984 of 16,112
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000286095395.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7db04c4drNaCmr
Just purchased an expensive pair of IEM shells for my custom build and then I kind of feel regret. I have a few pairs of CCA CSN so I think it should be a good idea to extract the drivers and reuse the shell and here is what I've got:

CSN Parts 1.jpg
CSN Parts 2.jpg
You get a pair of 10mm XUN drivers, KZ 30095 and the shells and metal faceplates.

I am thinking this may be a better and cheaper idea (around USD10-15) than getting empty shells thou you will need to do the extra work to extract the DD which is fine for me. However, I don't want all my IEMs to look the same. Just wonder if it is possible to decorate the faceplate with resin or something to hide the CCA logo?
I would look at something like this for a universal shell:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000286095395.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7db04c4drNaCmr

you could repurpose the drivers if they aren't too damaged. I don't know the specs on the dynamic driver however.
 
Jul 8, 2021 at 1:03 AM Post #12,985 of 16,112
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000286095395.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7db04c4drNaCmr

I would look at something like this for a universal shell:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000286095395.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7db04c4drNaCmr

you could repurpose the drivers if they aren't too damaged. I don't know the specs on the dynamic driver however.
Well I have purchased some of these and also a rather expensive shell but somehow I feel it is also a good idea to repurpose the CSN shell. Guess I will experiment with the faceplate then.
 
Jul 8, 2021 at 9:44 AM Post #12,986 of 16,112
But my question is
Why is treble rolling of
@Theodoric Paddlefoot

Finale 2 is good(now a very old design though)
Ferrofluid BA sound very different from normal BA's
And damperless, it should sound really good to anyone who tries it
The only thing is that it was made simple for DIY purposes so everyone can make it(ease of build had more priority compared fo Frequency response)
The problem was my cheap USB soundcard. I thought I could use it as output but it just didn't work. Now I'm using my ifi Zen DAC and the Apple dongle for measurements.
 

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Jul 8, 2021 at 10:37 AM Post #12,990 of 16,112
An IEC711 coupler from Aliexpress and then my ifi Zen Dac as audio out combined with an Apple USB-C to 3.5mm dongle as microphone in.
Use the apple dongle as output and input, that way it's more accurate imo
 

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