Where did you get your resin from? I have tried several and none of them really worked out for me sadly. I have some nail polish remover alike that work quite well to remove the resin thou.
I'm using a generic uv resin from Amazon. It's nothing special at all. I'll shoot you a pm with a link.
How long does it need to cure usually? (Not gonna believe marketing claims lol)I use bondic for my tube and faceplate attachment. If I need extra strength on my tube/baconnections, I'll add some epoxy over the bondic. I have used loctite medical/fumeless... however I ruined a driver or two because it is too watery and got into the ba, ruining it.
With the light, it can attach immediately but it it takes about a minute to fully harden. I highly recommend it, as I hate holding things waiting on glue to cure!
I use Loctite 3301, designed to glue PVC to polycarbonate, for gluing tubes to the drivers. I use 3921 for gluing faceplates. I also use loctite 3611 single component epoxy to glue down smd components prior to solder. Its important to use adhesives that cure at lower spectrum than the UV cured shells. I use 405nm material from pro3dure. The adhesives are LOW spectrum curing so, 350-365 will cure the glue and not FULLY over cure your shell material.
Where do you buy the Loctite 3000 series from?
You can get them from multiple suppliers online. Im in the US. Ive used a few different sources. I just search the part number.
This looks like a suitable replacement:
I don't have luck with f360 too with impression trimming. I use meshmixer and it works really well. Shoot me a message if you have queries about it. I might be able to help you out.Hey there, for anyone who has cut their impressions digitally before, could I ask for some feedback on my workflow? I feel like there's definitely a better and more efficient way I don't know about. It's first time dealing with organic shapes, or editing an STL at all for that matter. I've messed up my silicone impression cutting and couldn't make duplicates as my impression silicone's curing is inhibited by my mSLA 3D printed mold. If there's a way to get more accurate impression duplicates from an STL and a mSLA printer, please let me know as well.
Current workflow is to convert my STL to a solid in Fusion 360, then create a plane offset from XY plane to where I want to cut and sketch a spline or line. I then make a surface with that sketch that extends downwards and cut whatever I want off. I repeat this process from different heights for each part I want to cut off to achieve a final form. However, what I'm unsatisfied with aside from my utter lack of skill in spline control is that it is very difficult to force the solid to taper inwards so that I can have a better looking faceplate shape where I would be able to just rotary tool the edges away with silicone (until I overcut them of course), and because I'm mainly cutting straight down, I have to start sketches from many different heights and cannot get certain curves to cut in a way where I have less excess material flaring out (see: below ear canal). I'd like to hear what are the actual workflows people are working with to make these things, and if anyone is using Fusion 360 like me, I'd like to hear some tips from you.
Images of my work so far is posted below, ignore the fact that I suck at making smooth shapes, It's my first time and I'll be redoing them next weekend when I have time. Thanks.
Fusion is not good choice for this. You need something for meshHey there, for anyone who has cut their impressions digitally before, could I ask for some feedback on my workflow? I feel like there's definitely a better and more efficient way I don't know about. It's first time dealing with organic shapes, or editing an STL at all for that matter. I've messed up my silicone impression cutting and couldn't make duplicates as my impression silicone's curing is inhibited by my mSLA 3D printed mold. If there's a way to get more accurate impression duplicates from an STL and a mSLA printer, please let me know as well.
Current workflow is to convert my STL to a solid in Fusion 360, then create a plane offset from XY plane to where I want to cut and sketch a spline or line. I then make a surface with that sketch that extends downwards and cut whatever I want off. I repeat this process from different heights for each part I want to cut off to achieve a final form. However, what I'm unsatisfied with aside from my utter lack of skill in spline control is that it is very difficult to force the solid to taper inwards so that I can have a better looking faceplate shape where I would be able to just rotary tool the edges away with silicone (until I overcut them of course), and because I'm mainly cutting straight down, I have to start sketches from many different heights and cannot get certain curves to cut in a way where I have less excess material flaring out (see: below ear canal). I'd like to hear what are the actual workflows people are working with to make these things, and if anyone is using Fusion 360 like me, I'd like to hear some tips from you.
Images of my work so far is posted below, ignore the fact that I suck at making smooth shapes, It's my first time and I'll be redoing them next weekend when I have time. Thanks.
Ive dabbled. 3shape is amazing for import and impression manipulation. You can create 3D printed molds for silicone OR finish printed shells.
