Home-Made IEMs
Mar 20, 2021 at 6:59 AM Post #12,466 of 15,989
Hi all, this is my new build, really like black color. By the way, do anyone have experience to prevent bubble during coat and curing lacquer? I'm using lack 3 from Dreve.

Thanks
Nice work!

for bubbles, it is necessary to sand the hull example P240-P320, well cleaned the hull has isopropanol and then a layer of lake 3 followed by a second layer.

then UV for 10 minutes

I also see that you have pinholes on the faceplates, it’s a lack of surface preparation, we also have them oily hands naturally so use gloves, polish well and clean your surface well you will not have any rejection like that
 
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Mar 20, 2021 at 10:45 AM Post #12,467 of 15,989
Hi all, this is my new build, really like black color. By the way, do anyone have experience to prevent bubble during coat and curing lacquer? I'm using lack 3 from Dreve.

Thanks
This is so nice! How long did you expose the black colored resin?
 
Mar 21, 2021 at 10:36 AM Post #12,469 of 15,989
Nice work!

for bubbles, it is necessary to sand the hull example P240-P320, well cleaned the hull has isopropanol and then a layer of lake 3 followed by a second layer.

then UV for 10 minutes

I also see that you have pinholes on the faceplates, it’s a lack of surface preparation, we also have them oily hands naturally so use gloves, polish well and clean your surface well you will not have any rejection like that
Thanks, I used p500, you mean 2 times lack 3 and cure in 1 time, right? Because lack 3 can not smooth if we apply on surface polished.
 
Mar 21, 2021 at 11:31 AM Post #12,472 of 15,989
Nail UV, 36W, actually black ink I used is not really good, it is not loose like water, it is same toothpaste, so I think it make long time for cure.
I see, I haven't tried exposing resin with color yet. but I know that it is relatively longer. I only expose clear uv resin for 60 seconds. And this exposure already has thick walls.
 
Mar 22, 2021 at 3:07 AM Post #12,473 of 15,989
Nice work!

for bubbles, it is necessary to sand the hull example P240-P320, well cleaned the hull has isopropanol and then a layer of lake 3 followed by a second layer.

then UV for 10 minutes

I also see that you have pinholes on the faceplates, it’s a lack of surface preparation, we also have them oily hands naturally so use gloves, polish well and clean your surface well you will not have any rejection like that
I also have issues with lacquer. I usually do not buff shells before applying clear coat, I just sand them with 600 grit sanding paper and clean it with alcohol - that way lacquer is supposed to stick better. I apply shell evenly and then cure it for 10 minutes. Then sometimes during the curing so uncovered spots start appearing - which is understandable - clear coat is not yet solid and it might be "moving around" a bit. However I noticed an even more strange phenomenon when after applying and curing lacquer ideally after 2-3 months some uncovered spots start appearing. That I do not understand.

Also - how do you apply 2 layers of lacquer? Do you cure it for a while between layers? Too thick application starts running.
 
Mar 22, 2021 at 8:45 AM Post #12,474 of 15,989
Hi everybody. I'm new here but I have some experience.
My driver combination is two 38D1XJ00 , 25 ohm parallel - series connection with a 47 uf cap parallel, red damper for bass, one 2389D series connection with a 47 uf cap , red damper for midrange and one 2389D center tap series connection with a 2,2 uf cap, white damper for tweeter.
My question is tubing. I have troubles with tubing. My last builds was single or dual tubing with no issues. Now I want to pass 3 tubes in the soundlinks iem shell but the pvc tubes are too thick. can't pass 3x 1.5 mm tubes .Any help about tubing or any other type of tubes with thin walls ?
Thx
 
Mar 22, 2021 at 12:54 PM Post #12,475 of 15,989
Thanks, I used p500, you mean 2 times lack 3 and cure in 1 time, right? Because lack 3 can not smooth if we apply on surface polished.
Yes two successive layers and then only once under UV for 10 minutes on a motor, example 12tr/min for mine . I also glass surfboard and for the.gloss, the rule is important, when varnish, it needs a surface of hanging so do not varnish on a surface already varnished or polished.
 
Mar 22, 2021 at 1:40 PM Post #12,476 of 15,989
Hi all, this is my new build, really like black color. By the way, do anyone have experience to prevent bubble during coat and curing lacquer? I'm using lack 3 from Dreve.

Thanks
Like what Aldo40 said, you need to prep your surface really well.

I always sand my shells with 240 grit and make sure that every crevice is hit with the sandpaper then I sand it with a 3M green scour pads to make it more even. I then clean it thoroughly and I mean, really thoroughly. Not a single speck of dust, lint, oil or grime because that will compromise your finish.

As for applying, I only apply 1 layer but I make sure that layer is perfect. I have two methods for this:

1. Brushing. Make sure that you have a good amount on the brush. If your brush is too dry, it will leave streaks and possible to create bubbles. Brush really slowly, perpendicular with the surface as much as possible. Always coat your brush after 1-3 strokes. If ever you have bubbles or dust settling you can try to remove them with lightly tapping it with the with little to no amount of lacquer. You can try to lift it with a pin/needle. You can also try removing it with the tip of a thin rolled tissue. You can pop bubbles with a really quick pass of lighter flame.

2. Airbrushing. With this method, it is a lot quicker and less prone to surface imperfections once done right. Tho it may(or may not be) a lot more expensive due to excess spray. You can check out my sample on page 790.

I let it spin for a while hanging to let lacquer even itself out. My motor speed is around 30rpm the cure it in my chamber for around 4 mins(this is subjective with your setup)

Looks great tho! Did you apply the foil during casting or after casting the shell?
 
Mar 23, 2021 at 4:27 PM Post #12,477 of 15,989
Hi everybody. I'm new here but I have some experience.
My driver combination is two 38D1XJ00 , 25 ohm parallel - series connection with a 47 uf cap parallel, red damper for bass, one 2389D series connection with a 47 uf cap , red damper for midrange and one 2389D center tap series connection with a 2,2 uf cap, white damper for tweeter.
My question is tubing. I have troubles with tubing. My last builds was single or dual tubing with no issues. Now I want to pass 3 tubes in the soundlinks iem shell but the pvc tubes are too thick. can't pass 3x 1.5 mm tubes .Any help about tubing or any other type of tubes with thin walls ?
Thx
Sounds cool, I'm trying to do something with the 2389D too
 
Mar 23, 2021 at 5:27 PM Post #12,479 of 15,989
Is a very Good driver as midrange and as tweeter . It has loads of power. ! Are you gonna use the 2389D as tweeter , midrange or full range ?
I'll use 38DJ007Mi as bass, 2389D as midrange and EST65QB02 as tweeter

Ps. psst this is a budget Oriolus Traillii replica
 

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