[Wgibson]

Hi guys,

Can anyone recommend how to group solder 4-5 litz wires? The qdc type 2 pin is a pain in the ass :'(

You might have better luck making driver assemblies, soldering multiple drivers together with shorter wires, then just take one or two wires to the pin instead of 4-5. You can even b7000 glue drivers together, just make sure you know how they will fit into the shell first.

But to answer the question, solder wires, twist together up to the solder joint, lightly crimp solder with pliers (one time, then again 90* to that) quickly reflow the solder, twist wires tight again, then solder to the pin (with some flux added to the pin so it sticks.)

 

[mattmatt]

Hi guys,

Can anyone recommend how to group solder 4-5 litz wires? The qdc type 2 pin is a pain in the ass :'(

Pre-tin all wires and connectors. Then solder by pair. Twist the pair a bit then solder to another pair. That's how I do mine. Make sure you solder each pair as flat to each other as possible. I can get away with not twisting them after soldering but it helps when you'll solder multiple pairs. It takes absolute time and patience but once you get the hang of it, it will be like your 2nd nature.

 

[Luffytaro]

Like what Aldo40 said, you need to prep your surface really well.

I always sand my shells with 240 grit and make sure that every crevice is hit with the sandpaper then I sand it with a 3M green scour pads to make it more even. I then clean it thoroughly and I mean, really thoroughly. Not a single speck of dust, lint, oil or grime because that will compromise your finish.

As for applying, I only apply 1 layer but I make sure that layer is perfect. I have two methods for this:

1. Brushing. Make sure that you have a good amount on the brush. If your brush is too dry, it will leave streaks and possible to create bubbles. Brush really slowly, perpendicular with the surface as much as possible. Always coat your brush after 1-3 strokes. If ever you have bubbles or dust settling you can try to remove them with lightly tapping it with the with little to no amount of lacquer. You can try to lift it with a pin/needle. You can also try removing it with the tip of a thin rolled tissue. You can pop bubbles with a really quick pass of lighter flame.

2. Airbrushing. With this method, it is a lot quicker and less prone to surface imperfections once done right. Tho it may(or may not be) a lot more expensive due to excess spray. You can check out my sample on page 790.

I let it spin for a while hanging to let lacquer even itself out. My motor speed is around 30rpm the cure it in my chamber for around 4 mins(this is subjective with your setup)

Looks great tho! Did you apply the foil during casting or after casting the shell?

Thanks for your tip. I will try on my first custom.

 

[seijisandrei]

Pre-tin all wires and connectors. Then solder by pair. Twist the pair a bit then solder to another pair. That's how I do mine. Make sure you solder each pair as flat to each other as possible. I can get away with not twisting them after soldering but it helps when you'll solder multiple pairs. It takes absolute time and patience but once you get the hang of it, it will be like your 2nd nature.

Thanks @mattmatt and @Wgibson. I have used litz so I can practice these techniques. Thanks again!

 

[tomekk]

 

[seijisandrei]

You might have better luck making driver assemblies, soldering multiple drivers together with shorter wires

Wait, but this is same as wiring drivers in series?

 

[Wgibson]

Wait, but this is same as wiring drivers in series?

It can be series or parallel. This is more complicated, but you can see the smaller drivers together, are wired in parallel with only one pair of wires going to the rest of the circuit.

Spoiler

 

[seijisandrei]

It can be series or parallel. This is more complicated, but you can see the smaller drivers together, are wired in parallel with only one pair of wires going to the rest of the circuit.

Spoiler

I see, I'll explore it out. Thank you so much!

 

[Wgibson]

I usually draw a circuit diagram first, then sketch more of a physical diagram, see what works best.

Parallel connection you could run all drivers individually to the pin, or you could wire all drivers to each other and then run just one set of wires to the pin, same result.

Either way be careful and test it first, if you need to reverse polarity of one driver, it can be a problem if you already wired them together with short wires.

 

[musmecca]

It can be series or parallel. This is more complicated, but you can see the smaller drivers together, are wired in parallel with only one pair of wires going to the rest of the circuit.

Spoiler

Interesting switchable crossover......tell me more!

 

[Wgibson]

Interesting switchable crossover......tell me more!

Not quite done yet, graphs and more details soon

3 bore, it is assembled but I need to pick a damper for the high tube and probably orifice the low tube for sharper bass rolloff. Switch 1 is a bass boost, variable with the trimpot. Switch 2 cuts low mids (adds caps in to the low pass crossover.)

Knowles 33803 (30017 with high pass crossover built in) full range Sonion mid, and Sonion low, similar to a CI but I vented it by filing off a corner. So 4BA total.

 

[mattmatt]

I usually draw a circuit diagram first, then sketch more of a physical diagram, see what works best.

Parallel connection you could run all drivers individually to the pin, or you could wire all drivers to each other and then run just one set of wires to the pin, same result.

Either way be careful and test it first, if you need to reverse polarity of one driver, it can be a problem if you already wired them together with short wires.

Problem will be if there are multiple crossovers driver say one per driver each.

 

[seijisandrei]

Not quite done yet, graphs and more details soon

3 bore, it is assembled but I need to pick a damper for the high tube and probably orifice the low tube for sharper bass rolloff. Switch 1 is a bass boost, variable with the trimpot. Switch 2 cuts low mids (adds caps in to the low pass crossover.)

Knowles 33803 (30017 with high pass crossover built in) full range Sonion mid, and Sonion low, similar to a CI but I vented it by filing off a corner. So 4BA total.

I wanna learn how to do this so I can adapt this on my next project probably after a year lol. This stuff is so fun to do but not fun for my wallet.

Problem will be if there are multiple crossovers driver say one per driver each.

Yes this is my case, I have lpf for woofers and capacitors for the remaining drivers. I tried planning but there are still about 5 litz for positive and 5 for ground.

 

[mattmatt]

I wanna learn how to do this so I can adapt this on my next project probably after a year lol. This stuff is so fun to do but not fun for my wallet.


Yes this is my case, I have lpf for woofers and capacitors for the remaining drivers. I tried planning but there are still about 5 litz for positive and 5 for ground.

If that's the case and still want to go on with 1 wire along all drivers you can place the XOVER directly on the driver like this or even wire the XOVER to the pads and adhere to the BA body and run the wire along the XOVER. There are multiple ways to go around this.

 

[seijisandrei]

If that's the case and still want to go on with 1 wire along all drivers you can place the XOVER directly on the driver like this or even wire the XOVER to the pads and adhere to the BA body and run the wire along the XOVER. There are multiple ways to go around this.

But this is a series setup right? Will the series and parallel setup have the same sound?