[MISHKA2020]

Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!

 

[Aldo40]

Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!

.
The Pin holes are often the cause of fatty or dusty parts, so use gloves because our fingers can leave fat or try to work in a room without too much dust. Fine sanding is required, example with P220-320, then thoroughly clean the shell surface with isopro alcohol and then pass the lake3 and let it stretch for a few seconds , if there are still pin holes forming, it is sometimes necessary to make a second pass. Then UV treatment about 10 minutes

 

[mattmatt]

Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!

This is one of the reason why I switched to airbrushing hahahah!

Anyway, like what Aldo40 said, always sand before lacquering. I use 240 for this then I also pass it with a dremel abrasive wheel. I also clean it really well with IPA to a squeaky clean finish then blow it with compressed air too to ensure that I have no dust before applying the lacquer.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Also guys

I have given up on making notes on resonator
It has lots of variability
I mean, the point where Helmholtz resonator opening meets at tube, also effects the damping schema

Only one guy can teach you
@piotrus-g sensei

Because it's not just resonator by calculation, but the shape and size effect the dampening power
And also the specific distance(perpendicular to tube) on tube
Also effect the coverage pattern

Da boi doesn't want to do it

Second

Inductor has a very big problem
It restricts the last octave region on treble
And doesn't do much
And I don't like restricting my air or you can say last octave

I want the driver to let loose

 

[musmecca]

Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!

Mattmatt and Aldo40 hit the high points...make sure it's clean, sanded, and washed with alcohol. I do one other thing. I dip mine, then put them on a clamped motor to spin for 5 minutes before I cure. This allows the laq to flow and smooth out, but it also allows bubbles to rise to the top. I simply pop them with a pin and let them continue to rotate until smooth. Bubbles are caused by dirt, dust etc as described above...but also VOIDS in the surface hold air until laq is applied.....the air pockets are simply trying to rise. I'd also caution on extended cure time with laq 3...anything over 3 minutes and you risk yellowing.

 

[musmecca]

This is one of the reason why I switched to airbrushing hahahah!

Anyway, like what Aldo40 said, always sand before lacquering. I use 240 for this then I also pass it with a dremel abrasive wheel. I also clean it really well with IPA to a squeaky clean finish then blow it with compressed air too to ensure that I have no dust before applying the lacquer.

Matt, do you spray and let sit, rotate, or simply straight into the chamber? Evaluating if I want to jump into spraying.....

 

[mattmatt]

Mattmatt and Aldo40 hit the high points...make sure it's clean, sanded, and washed with alcohol. I do one other thing. I dip mine, then put them on a clamped motor to spin for 5 minutes before I cure. This allows the laq to flow and smooth out, but it also allows bubbles to rise to the top. I simply pop them with a pin and let them continue to rotate until smooth. Bubbles are caused by dirt, dust etc as described above...but also VOIDS in the surface hold air until laq is applied.....the air pockets are simply trying to rise. I'd also caution on extended cure time with laq 3...anything over 3 minutes and you risk yellowing.

Exactly the points about lacquer! Having a perfect finish from lacquer is one of the hardest thing to master actually. Seems a no brainier but not at all. With the curing times, it actually depends on your light. I can cure mine at 5 mins with no problem at all

I still let it rotate for a few minutes but a lot less compared to brushing. The hardest part to be perfect is the faceplate, am I right? If not applied properly, lumps and uneven surface will develop, hence rotating it but with spraying, it's a lot less time since it already evened out by itself.

 

[musmecca]

Exactly the points about lacquer! Having a perfect finish from lacquer is one of the hardest thing to master actually. Seems a no brainier but not at all. With the curing times, it actually depends on your light. I can cure mine at 5 mins with no problem at all

I still let it rotate for a few minutes but a lot less compared to brushing. The hardest part to be perfect is the faceplate, am I right? If not applied properly, lumps and uneven surface will develop, hence rotating it but with spraying, it's a lot less time since it already evened out by itself.

Do you mind sharing what your spray rig is? You can message me if you don't want to publish...

 

[Wgibson]

Exactly that! Still, no idea where to get a few units only. Thanks for the info tho!

What SR is that? Wouldn't that combination lack treble too much?

1) Search sonion VE6XC on taobao, they are a little expensize. You could also look for 1.27mm dip switches, those are cheap and easy to get from anywhere.

2) That is the model, SR-31843. It looks electrically the same as 32453 but is not vented (less bass.) Yes it will be a little light on treble, but this is a $25 project, trying some new things and building up skills before taking on more complex stuff.

 

[mattmatt]

Do you mind sharing what your spray rig is? You can message me if you don't want to publish...

Using a Badger 150 and a small airbrush compressor. Would probably upgrade to a Patriot. The original thought with the 150 is use a glass jar for the container, fill it with the lacquer and cap it off once done but found out that the lacquer will oxidize and turn yellowish. Lacquer can be used directly but I have an additive for better spraying.

 

[Aldo40]

Mattmatt and Aldo40 hit the high points...make sure it's clean, sanded, and washed with alcohol. I do one other thing. I dip mine, then put them on a clamped motor to spin for 5 minutes before I cure. This allows the laq to flow and smooth out, but it also allows bubbles to rise to the top. I simply pop them with a pin and let them continue to rotate until smooth. Bubbles are caused by dirt, dust etc as described above...but also VOIDS in the surface hold air until laq is applied.....the air pockets are simply trying to rise. I'd also caution on extended cure time with laq 3...anything over 3 minutes and you risk yellowing.

Hi musmecca
thanks for the accuracy

I forgot this; I leave the engine running for about 2-3 minutes, then I turn on the UV machine and it keeps running for 10 minutes
My machine is not very beautiful but it works wonderfully

 

[MISHKA2020]

Oh thank you all guys. I know I can always count on you! I may not have sharpened well, and I also touched with my bare fingers. I'll fix it. Cheers

Edit:

It's much beter when i use 320 sand. Till now i was using 800 and more. And i also using isopropanol in spray bottle. Now i spray on faceplate and first thing you can se are there bubbles or not. Even if it's not lack. If they come, i'm sanding again. Faceplate is the hardest to do like @mattmatt said.
Especially if it's flat. That’s why I always put resin at the end to make a small dome. So the lack follows and becomes flatter.

Once again, tnx guys. I will definitely try to spray lack in the future. It seems simpler and of better quality.

This is one of the reason why I switched to airbrushing hahahah!

Anyway, like what Aldo40 said, always sand before lacquering. I use 240 for this then I also pass it with a dremel abrasive wheel. I also clean it really well with IPA to a squeaky clean finish then blow it with compressed air too to ensure that I have no dust before applying the lacquer.

Thank you

 

[Aldo40]

What is important in the varnish is the preparation of the face. These are not techniques specific to the IEM, it is the basis of the varnishing.

I make surfboards and it is similar to the level of preparation, a gloss will be very beautiful if a topcoat is well sanded and clean.

I varnish with the brush and lake3 only and I do not need to touch up, it is a perfect mirror:

Watch this video of unique Melody, the method is the same:

 

[piotrus-g]

Also guys

I have given up on making notes on resonator
It has lots of variability
I mean, the point where Helmholtz resonator opening meets at tube, also effects the damping schema

Only one guy can teach you
@piotrus-g sensei

Because it's not just resonator by calculation, but the shape and size effect the dampening power
And also the specific distance(perpendicular to tube) on tube
Also effect the coverage pattern

Da boi doesn't want to do it

Second

Inductor has a very big problem
It restricts the last octave region on treble
And doesn't do much
And I don't like restricting my air or you can say last octave

I want the driver to let loose

Hahaha, lol. Definitely lots of variables and there are some tricks to it and unfortunately I cannot say more

 

[mattmatt]

What is important in the varnish is the preparation of the face. These are not techniques specific to the IEM, it is the basis of the varnishing.

I make surfboards and it is similar to the level of preparation, a gloss will be very beautiful if a topcoat is well sanded and clean.

I varnish with the brush and lake3 only and I do not need to touch up, it is a perfect mirror:

Watch this video of unique Melody, the method is the same:

Hi, i quite don't understand. What do you mean by surfboard?