Home-Made IEMs
Jan 21, 2021 at 9:54 PM Post #12,196 of 12,436

dhruvmeena96

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CI-30120 with SR-31843 inside the zobel, also zobel on the SR. Take a guess which one I soldered first :/

Heavily damp the CI(one yellow and another damper according to you), so that so, where SR cross happens, the CI merges there.

By the way
You could have added swfk or wbfk inside SR zobel
And made it a 3 way

Also, the advantage I saw in this design was that amp was only pushing power in accordance to CI with zobel

But in actual, that power is split up between drivers

Rather than, variable impedance and electrical phase iem where we don't know what's happening in power distribution

I have tried RAB + WBFK and it sounds very nice
 
Jan 21, 2021 at 10:39 PM Post #12,197 of 12,436

Wgibson

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Limited room in this shell, and wanted to get it finalized before I make something more complicated. CI is damped with 0.2mm ID brass tube, and I will probably end up with some foam in the nozzle to round out the SR peaks.
 
Jan 22, 2021 at 1:20 AM Post #12,198 of 12,436

dhruvmeena96

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Limited room in this shell, and wanted to get it finalized before I make something more complicated. CI is damped with 0.2mm ID brass tube, and I will probably end up with some foam in the nozzle to round out the SR peaks.
I forgot about brass tube
Nice
Brass adds ridgitiy also.
About SR.. I think grey or white because that's your main mid and tweeter

But then choose your poison on damping
 
Jan 22, 2021 at 4:18 PM Post #12,200 of 12,436

MISHKA2020

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Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!
 

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Jan 23, 2021 at 3:38 AM Post #12,201 of 12,436

Aldo40

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Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!
.
The Pin holes are often the cause of fatty or dusty parts, so use gloves because our fingers can leave fat or try to work in a room without too much dust. Fine sanding is required, example with P220-320, then thoroughly clean the shell surface with isopro alcohol and then pass the lake3 and let it stretch for a few seconds , if there are still pin holes forming, it is sometimes necessary to make a second pass. Then UV treatment about 10 minutes
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 3:55 AM Post #12,202 of 12,436

mattmatt

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Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!
This is one of the reason why I switched to airbrushing hahahah!

Anyway, like what Aldo40 said, always sand before lacquering. I use 240 for this then I also pass it with a dremel abrasive wheel. I also clean it really well with IPA to a squeaky clean finish then blow it with compressed air too to ensure that I have no dust before applying the lacquer.
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 8:23 AM Post #12,203 of 12,436

dhruvmeena96

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Also guys

I have given up on making notes on resonator
It has lots of variability
I mean, the point where Helmholtz resonator opening meets at tube, also effects the damping schema

Only one guy can teach you
@piotrus-g sensei

Because it's not just resonator by calculation, but the shape and size effect the dampening power
And also the specific distance(perpendicular to tube) on tube
Also effect the coverage pattern

Da boi doesn't want to do it

Second

Inductor has a very big problem
It restricts the last octave region on treble
And doesn't do much
And I don't like restricting my air or you can say last octave

I want the driver to let loose
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 12:07 PM Post #12,204 of 12,436

musmecca

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Hi guys.
I need help. Sometimes I have a problem with finishing a faceplate. I use lack 3. I get small bubbles. No way to fix them. If I lacquering it twice, it all goes to hell. Why do they appear? How to solve it? Thanks!
Mattmatt and Aldo40 hit the high points...make sure it's clean, sanded, and washed with alcohol. I do one other thing. I dip mine, then put them on a clamped motor to spin for 5 minutes before I cure. This allows the laq to flow and smooth out, but it also allows bubbles to rise to the top. I simply pop them with a pin and let them continue to rotate until smooth. Bubbles are caused by dirt, dust etc as described above...but also VOIDS in the surface hold air until laq is applied.....the air pockets are simply trying to rise. I'd also caution on extended cure time with laq 3...anything over 3 minutes and you risk yellowing.
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 12:09 PM Post #12,205 of 12,436

musmecca

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This is one of the reason why I switched to airbrushing hahahah!

Anyway, like what Aldo40 said, always sand before lacquering. I use 240 for this then I also pass it with a dremel abrasive wheel. I also clean it really well with IPA to a squeaky clean finish then blow it with compressed air too to ensure that I have no dust before applying the lacquer.
Matt, do you spray and let sit, rotate, or simply straight into the chamber? Evaluating if I want to jump into spraying.....
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 12:27 PM Post #12,206 of 12,436

mattmatt

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Mattmatt and Aldo40 hit the high points...make sure it's clean, sanded, and washed with alcohol. I do one other thing. I dip mine, then put them on a clamped motor to spin for 5 minutes before I cure. This allows the laq to flow and smooth out, but it also allows bubbles to rise to the top. I simply pop them with a pin and let them continue to rotate until smooth. Bubbles are caused by dirt, dust etc as described above...but also VOIDS in the surface hold air until laq is applied.....the air pockets are simply trying to rise. I'd also caution on extended cure time with laq 3...anything over 3 minutes and you risk yellowing.
Exactly the points about lacquer! Having a perfect finish from lacquer is one of the hardest thing to master actually. Seems a no brainier but not at all. With the curing times, it actually depends on your light. I can cure mine at 5 mins with no problem at all :)

I still let it rotate for a few minutes but a lot less compared to brushing. The hardest part to be perfect is the faceplate, am I right? If not applied properly, lumps and uneven surface will develop, hence rotating it but with spraying, it's a lot less time since it already evened out by itself.
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 12:31 PM Post #12,207 of 12,436

musmecca

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Exactly the points about lacquer! Having a perfect finish from lacquer is one of the hardest thing to master actually. Seems a no brainier but not at all. With the curing times, it actually depends on your light. I can cure mine at 5 mins with no problem at all :)

I still let it rotate for a few minutes but a lot less compared to brushing. The hardest part to be perfect is the faceplate, am I right? If not applied properly, lumps and uneven surface will develop, hence rotating it but with spraying, it's a lot less time since it already evened out by itself.
Do you mind sharing what your spray rig is? You can message me if you don't want to publish...
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 12:43 PM Post #12,208 of 12,436

Wgibson

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Exactly that! Still, no idea where to get a few units only. Thanks for the info tho! :)

What SR is that? Wouldn't that combination lack treble too much?

1) Search sonion VE6XC on taobao, they are a little expensize. You could also look for 1.27mm dip switches, those are cheap and easy to get from anywhere.

2) That is the model, SR-31843. It looks electrically the same as 32453 but is not vented (less bass.) Yes it will be a little light on treble, but this is a $25 project, trying some new things and building up skills before taking on more complex stuff.
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 1:12 PM Post #12,209 of 12,436

mattmatt

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Do you mind sharing what your spray rig is? You can message me if you don't want to publish...
Using a Badger 150 and a small airbrush compressor. Would probably upgrade to a Patriot. The original thought with the 150 is use a glass jar for the container, fill it with the lacquer and cap it off once done but found out that the lacquer will oxidize and turn yellowish. Lacquer can be used directly but I have an additive for better spraying. :)
 
Jan 23, 2021 at 4:25 PM Post #12,210 of 12,436

Aldo40

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Mattmatt and Aldo40 hit the high points...make sure it's clean, sanded, and washed with alcohol. I do one other thing. I dip mine, then put them on a clamped motor to spin for 5 minutes before I cure. This allows the laq to flow and smooth out, but it also allows bubbles to rise to the top. I simply pop them with a pin and let them continue to rotate until smooth. Bubbles are caused by dirt, dust etc as described above...but also VOIDS in the surface hold air until laq is applied.....the air pockets are simply trying to rise. I'd also caution on extended cure time with laq 3...anything over 3 minutes and you risk yellowing.
Hi musmecca
thanks for the accuracy:wink:

I forgot this; I leave the engine running for about 2-3 minutes, then I turn on the UV machine and it keeps running for 10 minutes
My machine is not very beautiful but it works wonderfully :wink:

 
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