Guess I need to work on testing drivers without soldering, don't want to solder to a driver twice if I can avoid it. I have multimeter tweezer leads (for checking surface mount components) so I could try just manually holding those to the driver solder pads while measuring.
all you read about crossover and crossover damaging the sound is 90% hoax
if you can adjust phase and impedance
crossover have a huge advantage
a ceramic capacitor wont worsen the sound
neither a metal film resistor
the 10% truth about crossover damaging the sound quality is wasted energy in heat from these component
or capacitor peizo effect
bro, we have technically done everything here in this thread
and a properly designed system offers way less IMD(to the level of none), way better transient and impulse and the only con is just very minute signal lost on component, which can be compensated with increasing the volume
plus, resistor, inductor and caps behave as linear instead of non linear devices
i can go on and on.
components dont make sound worse, its the application
1. I always wire drivers first on a vice, no tubes, as this is critical and requires a stable platform.
2. I attach tubes next.
3. I wire everything together including socket and crossover.
4. I then test output and FR, recognizing it isn't tweaked until it's in the shell. Sometimes I install dampers here.
5. I already have my faceplates and shells drilled and prepped. Depending on the finish, sometimes I attach the faceplates with no electronics and finish edges, dip in laq 3, then simply razor the face back off to receive electronics.
6. Install everything....note I incorporate strain relief (simply glue litz to BA's) and test 1 more time before buttoning up.
7. With extra tube sticking out of bore, I bondic in place...then simply cut tubes flush. Faceplate reattached.
8. Final test then final light lac 3.