[wolkegeist]

yeah, thats me lol. Heres a link https://www.reddit.com/r/DIEMs/comments/dhl5zn/single_driver_sr32453_build/ and the diagram: https://www.reddit.com/r/DIEMs/comments/dhygor/exploded_view_of_my_last_build/ I also wrote this, https://www.reddit.com/r/DIEMs/comments/cbng8t/a_4_page_paper_of_how_sound_tubes_affect_iems_in/ based off of some findings. It is is open to edits.

I left some impressions of the build on the first page. I was very impressed with that driver. I started the build as re-inspiration to my 6 driver build and it was pretty good at that. With a good source, the sound is quite impressive. Very neutral. That forum isn't doing so well activity wise, so I figured I should join here. FYI: I am a broke HS student, and have much experience with high end IEM's, so you may see me compare IEM's to headphones. Sorry, lol.

As for which driver to buy, thats up to you guys. I have no clue if she could buy 50 of one and 50 of another. That would be optimal. If I remember right, she said she would sell for 33 bucks. Not a bad price, especially compared to the GV. The single spout could be very easy for newbies to tune, and by only looking at graphs, I think I would prefer the 1723. However, the GV has 2 spouts, with room for more acoustic tuning.

I used LS400 driver, which is a combination of Sonion 1700(??) and Sonion 2389, which is kinda similar to 1723 but without acupass. Formula as below:
2389 +2.2uF
1700 parallel
20ohm series
Then a Cpad of 50ohm parallel and 3.3 ohm series. This is for a little bit of attenuation.
Tube is 14mm 2ID with no damper.
Then pair them with an ED-30761, tube is 16mm 1ID, red damper at 5mm, orange damper at end.
Sound is Finale 2 level of detail, with strong bass, clear mid, treble is a little bit roll-off and fast decay.
Here’s a pic, I’m a horrible shell maker, I know! I’m waiting for the faceplate to dry because I use A-B resin tho, so here’s a naked pic lol.

 

[et.haan]

I used LS400 driver, which is a combination of Sonion 1700(??) and Sonion 2389, which is kinda similar to 1723 but without acupass. Formula as below:
2389 +2.2uF
1700 parallel
20ohm series
Then a Cpad of 50ohm parallel and 3.3 ohm series. This is for a little bit of attenuation.
Tube is 14mm 2ID with no damper.
Then pair them with an ED-30761, tube is 16mm 1ID, red damper at 5mm, orange damper at end.
Sound is Finale 2 level of detail, with strong bass, clear mid, treble is a little bit roll-off and fast decay.
Here’s a pic, I’m a horrible shell maker, I know! I’m waiting for the faceplate to dry because I use A-B resin tho, so here’s a naked pic lol.

Nice! I have been up past 4, multiple days in a row, trying to get good shells. It takes lots of work, and every part matters. Very frustrating, but very rewarding. If you are using krystalloid, something that I tried the other night that seems to work well is to leave the impression (in the cuff, with the mold pourd) in a warming oven for like an hour, at 120-130 degrees. Helps the bubbles rise to the surface.

is the 1700 low, ed mid and 2300 high?

The 1723 seems to be totally different, with 2 drivers joined together. https://www.sonion.com/wp-content/uploads/1723_AN_1723_AcuPAss_Rev002.pdf It seems as if the zone between them (that goes to the snout) acts as a resonant chamber, and flattens response. I think the response is pretty impressive, but with how flat most ED's are, I couldnt imagine yours being far from it, if with less of a V.

The driver has tons of specs that are awesome for reference.

Also, how did you do tuning for your drivers? I have seen all the RC filtering calculators online, but with how flat IEM response isnt really flat, I am not sure how this could be done.

My current plan is to hook up the 3 seperate drivers to 3 different Audioquest dragonfly red DAC's, and then actively tune using an active EQ program like Equilizer APO. I would then write down the levels of attenuation and slopes of highpass / lowpass and calculate for a passive circuit. I would use Arta or VitiuxCAD for calculating optimal circuity, along with parallel vs series.

Does this seem to be the best way to get there? I would have used something like a DBX Driverack (used in PA), but its output is like 400 ohms. Lol.
I saw on UE's Instagram their first tuning rig, which seemed fairly similar, just passively. Used some pots, and I am guessing they swapped out caps till they got what they liked.

 

[wolkegeist]

Nice! I have been up past 4, multiple days in a row, trying to get good shells. It takes lots of work, and every part matters. Very frustrating, but very rewarding. If you are using krystalloid, something that I tried the other night that seems to work well is to leave the impression (in the cuff, with the mold pourd) in a warming oven for like an hour, at 120-130 degrees. Helps the bubbles rise to the surface.

is the 1700 low, ed mid and 2300 high?

The 1723 seems to be totally different, with 2 drivers joined together. https://www.sonion.com/wp-content/uploads/1723_AN_1723_AcuPAss_Rev002.pdf It seems as if the zone between them (that goes to the snout) acts as a resonant chamber, and flattens response. I think the response is pretty impressive, but with how flat most ED's are, I couldnt imagine yours being far from it, if with less of a V.

The driver has tons of specs that are awesome for reference.

Also, how did you do tuning for your drivers? I have seen all the RC filtering calculators online, but with how flat IEM response isnt really flat, I am not sure how this could be done.

My current plan is to hook up the 3 seperate drivers to 3 different Audioquest dragonfly red DAC's, and then actively tune using an active EQ program like Equilizer APO. I would then write down the levels of attenuation and slopes of highpass / lowpass and calculate for a passive circuit. I would use Arta or VitiuxCAD for calculating optimal circuity, along with parallel vs series.

Does this seem to be the best way to get there? I would have used something like a DBX Driverack (used in PA), but its output is like 400 ohms. Lol.
I saw on UE's Instagram their first tuning rig, which seemed fairly similar, just passively. Used some pots, and I am guessing they swapped out caps till they got what they liked.

The ED-30761 is a surprisingly good woofer, check it’s frequency response chart man. 1700 is mid, 2389 is upper mid/tweeter.
The ED one is very tricky because it has no nozzle, I have to use tube shrink to connect it to the tube.

I used Craft Arrange UV resin for the shell, and A-B resin for faceplate. I tried using A-B resin for the shell too, but maybe I’m not good at mixing them, so they always kinda not solid, they also need a negative mold too, it’s very frustrated to work with them, but they’re cheaper than UV tho.

Also find some good X7R caps and metal film resistor. I personally use NPO caps for high frequencies, because they have a very tiny drift rate per temperature, and X7R caps for everything else. Try this shop: https://shop479070434.taobao.com/ca...&search=y&catName=%B6%A8%D6%C6%B6%FA%BB%FA#bd

I’m saving to buy a mic rig from Behringer, because they are provided locally, so now I kinda test with my ears haha.

 

[et.haan]

The ED-30761 is a surprisingly good woofer, check it’s frequency response chart man. 1700 is mid, 2389 is upper mid/tweeter.
The ED one is very tricky because it has no nozzle, I have to use tube shrink to connect it to the tube.

I used Craft Arrange UV resin for the shell, and A-B resin for faceplate. I tried using A-B resin for the shell too, but maybe I’m not good at mixing them, so they always kinda not solid, they also need a negative mold too, it’s very frustrated to work with them, but they’re cheaper than UV tho.

Also find some good X7R caps and metal film resistor. I personally use NPO caps for high frequencies, because they have a very tiny drift rate per temperature, and X7R caps for everything else. Try this shop: https://shop479070434.taobao.com/ca...&search=y&catName=%B6%A8%D6%C6%B6%FA%BB%FA#bd
.

I really want to experiment with that snoutless ED. It seems The Sonion TIA driver is that, but on a SWFK. I feel it due its lack of a nozzle, you could do a fantastic, smooth horn with shrink wrap. I would love to try that soon. I feel it could be used as a woofer or a tweeter, based on tubing.

I havent tried anything but Dreve, so I cant comment on that. . If you can afford it/get it shipped, it is fantastic.

I think I will use Knowles caps from mouser, I remember they had some that they marketed mainly for HiFi. However, that is still pretty far away.

I feel like a mic is only really good for demonstrating results. Or testing without a shell. However, I feel like I would rather experiment with the drivers in the shell. Ill have to be careful with handling.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I really want to experiment with that snoutless ED. It seems The Sonion TIA driver is that, but on a SWFK. I feel it due its lack of a nozzle, you could do a fantastic, smooth horn with shrink wrap. I would love to try that soon. I feel it could be used as a woofer or a tweeter, based on tubing.

I havent tried anything but Dreve, so I cant comment on that. . If you can afford it/get it shipped, it is fantastic.

I think I will use Knowles caps from mouser, I remember they had some that they marketed mainly for HiFi. However, that is still pretty far away.

I feel like a mic is only really good for demonstrating results. Or testing without a shell. However, I feel like I would rather experiment with the drivers in the shell. Ill have to be careful with handling.

Sonion Tia???

The lack of nozzle has only one advantage, and that is reduced resonance(which is also small)

And how you gonna control the smooth guide when making..want to know bro


Plus, you were getting it wrong... ED30761 is not a tweeter at all.... It is a pure woofer, even the impedance also says that. You might do a high pass... But its better to use a specific nature of driver for specific applications.
ED30761 is a woofer and a fullrange.

Try getting the e.Audio Dual Knowles ED29689 (Knowles dont make one)

Or Sonion 2389 D


Or

If you can find, Find the Knowles EJ23026

I will make this guide per Knowles EJ23036
Desolder its connection(the two drivers are wired in series)

And make them parallel

Then take two ED30761 in parallel...

We can help you on making the adapter for holding two ED30761 with a spout to attach tube easily.

So its EJ23026 and ED30761x2
Tubing is of noble savant.
Damper spec is of noble savant


Its now quad driver

Add a 10ohm series resistor to whole circuit because this setup is very low impedance and above 120dB.

This will level it down to 118dB(which is still loud) and make it 18ohms

Compared to 124dB at 8ohms


This build is still in prototype stage.

I think EJ in parallel is very loud.
24ohms @ 110dB @ DCR
2kHz is over 120dB in series(stock config) and in parallel, it gets to 125dB.

So, I will try to make an Zobel and then a L-pad for EJ23026.. To make it behave like ED29689, lower its volume to ED29689 + 20ohms and then use a ED30761(single only)

 

[et.haan]

Sonion Tia???

The lack of nozzle has only one advantage, and that is reduced resonance(which is also small)

And how you gonna control the smooth guide when making..want to know bro


Plus, you were getting it wrong... ED30761 is not a tweeter at all.... It is a pure woofer, even the impedance also says that. You might do a high pass... But its better to use a specific nature of driver for specific applications.
ED30761 is a woofer and a fullrange.

Try getting the e.Audio Dual Knowles ED29689 (Knowles dont make one)

Or Sonion 2389 D


Or

If you can find, Find the Knowles EJ23026

I will make this guide per Knowles EJ23036
Desolder its connection(the two drivers are wired in series)

And make them parallel

Then take two ED30761 in parallel...

We can help you on making the adapter for holding two ED30761 with a spout to attach tube easily.

So its EJ23026 and ED30761x2
Tubing is of noble savant.
Damper spec is of noble savant


Its now quad driver

Add a 10ohm series resistor to whole circuit because this setup is very low impedance and above 120dB.

This will level it down to 118dB(which is still loud) and make it 18ohms

Compared to 124dB at 8ohms


This build is still in prototype stage.

I think EJ in parallel is very loud.
24ohms @ 110dB @ DCR
2kHz is over 120dB in series(stock config) and in parallel, it gets to 125dB.

So, I will try to make an Zobel and then a L-pad for EJ23026.. To make it behave like ED29689, lower its volume to ED29689 + 20ohms and then use a ED30761(single only)

I always thought that 64 uses the WBFK for their tweeter. Maybe https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jguxmYfEmZdHEGIUDvQUnfm3vhxo51WeNKKG0_oRtMA/pubhtml# is wrong, but I do not know. We can only tear one apart to find out.

Interesting. I dont totally understand the point of a snoutless woofer, only tweeter.

I am currently planning on using the 26805 for my next build. Impedence seemed good to combine with the HODVTEC and EST. Unless you have a better idea.

EJ looks very interesting. I would like to try it as a mid, or a full range driver.

What are your thoughts on a dual HODVTEC? I plan on using the 31618. I thought the impedance was a little low, and series could help that. I want a deep extension. I am only concerned with the lowering output of the HODVTEC. I have heard that it will kill subbass. Is this true? Would an L-pad to fix this? How much could a Zobel cicuit reduce the ouput? I think it will only play to 180hz or so, with a first order lowpass, in order to keep phase under control.

What are your thoughts on zobel for EST? Too crazy?

Also, I am not sure if you are translating (in which if you are, I am going crazy), but I think your English is getting better.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I always thought that 64 uses the WBFK for their tweeter. Maybe https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jguxmYfEmZdHEGIUDvQUnfm3vhxo51WeNKKG0_oRtMA/pubhtml# is wrong, but I do not know. We can only tear one apart to find out.

Interesting. I dont totally understand the point of a snoutless woofer, only tweeter.

I am currently planning on using the 26805 for my next build. Impedence seemed good to combine with the HODVTEC and EST. Unless you have a better idea.

EJ looks very interesting. I would like to try it as a mid, or a full range driver.

What are your thoughts on a dual HODVTEC? I plan on using the 31618. I thought the impedance was a little low, and series could help that. I want a deep extension. I am only concerned with the lowering output of the HODVTEC. I have heard that it will kill subbass. Is this true? Would an L-pad to fix this? How much could a Zobel cicuit reduce the ouput? I think it will only play to 180hz or so, with a first order lowpass, in order to keep phase under control.

What are your thoughts on zobel for EST? Too crazy?

Also, I am not sure if you are translating (in which if you are, I am going crazy), but I think your English is getting better.

LoL bro..

English.
My English is fine... India is largest English speaking country...( History lesson bro)

Britishers ruled us for 200years...and we were involved in World war I and II...so my English should be fine.... If not.. I will try to improve


Snoutless/Spoutless(we call it spoutless here..lol) driver are made to have less mechanical resonance of spout.. Commonly used as hearing aid driver and by avoiding resonance from driver, they can tune it nicely to eardrum mechanical loss or basilar impedance.

These driver has pretty nicely placed peaks and often slightly less strong compared to spout version. They are softer sound

Compare ED30761 and ED23147. They are pretty much same driver but due to spout, the peak looks sharper in ED23147.

Tia Driver is something I dont know, but it doesnt look like sonion by its diaphragm image.


EJ driver is amazing, and if tuned proper, can look better than ER4.

Plus error rate in impedance lowers which make them more easy for hand matching amazing.

Dual HODVTEC or just HODVTEC(High Output Dual Vented TEC) is amazing.

Zobel doesnt reduce volume or sensitivity. It changes the way signal reach to ear. Amp see a flat load . how it does

Lemme explain simply.

You select a capacitor according to its inductance, do a low pass by increasing those frequency resistance or impedance. The you parallel a resistor or called as a decouple resistor.

It decouples the cap, which means opposing force to tune. This resistor after cap is seen as parallel to those High frequency impedance increasing, making the lowpass revert back to normal response, but now resistor being parallel is seem to look more flatter

This doesnt even change the FR. But perception of sibilance and harshness is reduced and flattened out, which makes it smoother and detailed.

This happens because zobel also effect air loading factor and air or distance factor.

You have more air loaded and less air resistance(these are mechanical factor, we compensate it electrically)

Zobel is like making suspension upgrade.

Will write more after sometime(I am busy)

 

[wolkegeist]

I always thought that 64 uses the WBFK for their tweeter. Maybe https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jguxmYfEmZdHEGIUDvQUnfm3vhxo51WeNKKG0_oRtMA/pubhtml# is wrong, but I do not know. We can only tear one apart to find out.

Interesting. I dont totally understand the point of a snoutless woofer, only tweeter.

I am currently planning on using the 26805 for my next build. Impedence seemed good to combine with the HODVTEC and EST. Unless you have a better idea.

EJ looks very interesting. I would like to try it as a mid, or a full range driver.

What are your thoughts on a dual HODVTEC? I plan on using the 31618. I thought the impedance was a little low, and series could help that. I want a deep extension. I am only concerned with the lowering output of the HODVTEC. I have heard that it will kill subbass. Is this true? Would an L-pad to fix this? How much could a Zobel cicuit reduce the ouput? I think it will only play to 180hz or so, with a first order lowpass, in order to keep phase under control.

What are your thoughts on zobel for EST? Too crazy?

Also, I am not sure if you are translating (in which if you are, I am going crazy), but I think your English is getting better.

I tried many different type of caps man, idk about knowles caps but they’re probably X5R caps. For audio I think film caps and NP0 caps are the kings because of their low drift rate. But film caps are huge so they probably not gonna fit in a shell tho lol

 

[et.haan]

LoL bro..

English.
My English is fine... India is largest English speaking country...( History lesson bro)

Britishers ruled us for 200years...and we were involved in World war I and II...so my English should be fine.... If not.. I will try to improve


Snoutless/Spoutless(we call it spoutless here..lol) driver are made to have less mechanical resonance of spout.. Commonly used as hearing aid driver and by avoiding resonance from driver, they can tune it nicely to eardrum mechanical loss or basilar impedance.

These driver has pretty nicely placed peaks and often slightly less strong compared to spout version. They are softer sound

Compare ED30761 and ED23147. They are pretty much same driver but due to spout, the peak looks sharper in ED23147.

Tia Driver is something I dont know, but it doesnt look like sonion by its diaphragm image.


EJ driver is amazing, and if tuned proper, can look better than ER4.

Plus error rate in impedance lowers which make them more easy for hand matching amazing.

Dual HODVTEC or just HODVTEC(High Output Dual Vented TEC) is amazing.

Zobel doesnt reduce volume or sensitivity. It changes the way signal reach to ear. Amp see a flat load . how it does

Lemme explain simply.

You select a capacitor according to its inductance, do a low pass by increasing those frequency resistance or impedance. The you parallel a resistor or called as a decouple resistor.

It decouples the cap, which means opposing force to tune. This resistor after cap is seen as parallel to those High frequency impedance increasing, making the lowpass revert back to normal response, but now resistor being parallel is seem to look more flatter

This doesnt even change the FR. But perception of sibilance and harshness is reduced and flattened out, which makes it smoother and detailed.

This happens because zobel also effect air loading factor and air or distance factor.

You have more air loaded and less air resistance(these are mechanical factor, we compensate it electrically)

Zobel is like making suspension upgrade.

Will write more after sometime(I am busy)

I think I understand, that the Zobel only improves response with a less than optimal source, flatening the load. That makes more sense.

It seems like a zobel would be less effective on a woofer, and most effective on a tweeter/super tweeter. However, I doubt my suspicion, as I see you mainly use it on mids. Why not use it on tweeters? With less air resistance, it seems like it would be a great choice for the EST. But I do not know for sure.

I currently have a ED-26805 for a a mid driver. Any better choices with the est? And I have both CL and HODVTEC, but I got the impression that if done right, the HODVTEC is better. It should have as long as a tube as possible.

Also, I saw you post about the 38D1XJ007Mi/8a. It has amazing extension. What are your thoughts on using this instead of the HODVTEC? i will probably leave vents open. I know that is is easier to make good IEM's with many attempts, learning from each one, but I cant help but want this one to be better.

I feel like Sonion is king in terms of incredibly expensive drivers, that are much less of a broadband design than the Knowles products. Would you agree? I see Knowles as better for widepand use. And they are much cheaper.

 

[et.haan]

I tried many different type of caps man, idk about knowles caps but they’re probably X5R caps. For audio I think film caps and NP0 caps are the kings because of their low drift rate. But film caps are huge so they probably not gonna fit in a shell tho lol

Yeah, like the stuff used in amps. Ill have to experiment as well. If i remember right, those were a bit warmer? My video prod. teacher used to do pro sound, and we talked for a bit about those.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I think I understand, that the Zobel only improves response with a less than optimal source, flatening the load. That makes more sense.

It seems like a zobel would be less effective on a woofer, and most effective on a tweeter/super tweeter. However, I doubt my suspicion, as I see you mainly use it on mids. Why not use it on tweeters? With less air resistance, it seems like it would be a great choice for the EST. But I do not know for sure.

I currently have a ED-26805 for a a mid driver. Any better choices with the est? And I have both CL and HODVTEC, but I got the impression that if done right, the HODVTEC is better. It should have as long as a tube as possible.

Also, I saw you post about the 38D1XJ007Mi/8a. It has amazing extension. What are your thoughts on using this instead of the HODVTEC? i will probably leave vents open. I know that is is easier to make good IEM's with many attempts, learning from each one, but I cant help but want this one to be better.

I feel like Sonion is king in terms of incredibly expensive drivers, that are much less of a broadband design than the Knowles products. Would you agree? I see Knowles as better for widepand use. And they are much cheaper.

Zobel is effective on every driver. woofer improves a lot with zobel, but doesnt make a lot of sense when you have a zobel fullrange running. i dont do it with mids but mostly with a fullrange, because that fullrange flat impedance would react with all the other cross driver and make it flat

but if i go full crossover, then i prefer to have crossover on all the drivers

about Sonion 38D1XJ007Mi/8, its pre damped with Acu-pass(Which avoids the damper and electronic Crossover) and has higher amount inductive kick. This makes the driver more bassy. It is louder than HODVTEC and CI and go till 10Hz(No roll-off).

About Sonion, i used to think that once open a time.....But then, at one scary night, i was introduced to the FerroFluid drivers by knowles


About ED26805, it can be used with less damping compared to ED29689. The peaks in this driver seems to be quieter.

any thing can be paired with EST.... Make sure to cross it higher than general SWFK

 

[et.haan]

Zobel is effective on every driver. woofer improves a lot with zobel, but doesnt make a lot of sense when you have a zobel fullrange running. i dont do it with mids but mostly with a fullrange, because that fullrange flat impedance would react with all the other cross driver and make it flat

but if i go full crossover, then i prefer to have crossover on all the drivers

about Sonion 38D1XJ007Mi/8, its pre damped with Acu-pass(Which avoids the damper and electronic Crossover) and has higher amount inductive kick. This makes the driver more bassy. It is louder than HODVTEC and CI and go till 10Hz(No roll-off).

About Sonion, i used to think that once open a time.....But then, at one scary night, i was introduced to the FerroFluid drivers by knowles


About ED26805, it can be used with less damping compared to ED29689. The peaks in this driver seems to be quieter.

any thing can be paired with EST.... Make sure to cross it higher than general SWFK

That makes sense. For some reason, I think (In my head) ED and RAB/RAF are mids. Its really just ED (and BK) that are mids.

If I use the 38D1XJ007Mi/8, do I even need a lowpass? the slope is already pretty steep, and seems optimal for a woofer. I would need to quiet it a lot, the EST is quiet.

What is it about FerroFluid drivers that you love? This is the RAF series, right?

For the the 26805, I was feeling about the same. I would do a bandpass, with highpass at 180-250hz (depending on where I cross the woofer) and pull it back out at 3-7k. The higher I cross it, the more the tubing matters (for shaping response/peaks), right? Probably a green filter, at about 5 or 6 mm.

EST.... I have seen on Sonion doc that the EST should be put in after 7k, but on Vision ears elysium, they have it crossed at like 3k, maybe 4k (i havent heard, only seen in reviews). They say it gives a great timbre and speed to the mids. Ill have to test. Thoughts?

Is there any driver that you have heard that you would say is actually bad?

Thank you so much for your time and help.

 

[Xymordos]

Zobel is effective on every driver. woofer improves a lot with zobel, but doesnt make a lot of sense when you have a zobel fullrange running. i dont do it with mids but mostly with a fullrange, because that fullrange flat impedance would react with all the other cross driver and make it flat

but if i go full crossover, then i prefer to have crossover on all the drivers

about Sonion 38D1XJ007Mi/8, its pre damped with Acu-pass(Which avoids the damper and electronic Crossover) and has higher amount inductive kick. This makes the driver more bassy. It is louder than HODVTEC and CI and go till 10Hz(No roll-off).

About Sonion, i used to think that once open a time.....But then, at one scary night, i was introduced to the FerroFluid drivers by knowles


About ED26805, it can be used with less damping compared to ED29689. The peaks in this driver seems to be quieter.

any thing can be paired with EST.... Make sure to cross it higher than general SWFK

What's some nice ferro fluid drivers you recommend that I can find easily?

 

[wolkegeist]

That makes sense. For some reason, I think (In my head) ED and RAB/RAF are mids. Its really just ED (and BK) that are mids.

If I use the 38D1XJ007Mi/8, do I even need a lowpass? the slope is already pretty steep, and seems optimal for a woofer. I would need to quiet it a lot, the EST is quiet.

What is it about FerroFluid drivers that you love? This is the RAF series, right?

For the the 26805, I was feeling about the same. I would do a bandpass, with highpass at 180-250hz (depending on where I cross the woofer) and pull it back out at 3-7k. The higher I cross it, the more the tubing matters (for shaping response/peaks), right? Probably a green filter, at about 5 or 6 mm.

EST.... I have seen on Sonion doc that the EST should be put in after 7k, but on Vision ears elysium, they have it crossed at like 3k, maybe 4k (i havent heard, only seen in reviews). They say it gives a great timbre and speed to the mids. Ill have to test. Thoughts?

Is there any driver that you have heard that you would say is actually bad?

Thank you so much for your time and help.

It’s the FED-30048.
EST should be crossed at 13kHz up to 14kHz, it’s better to be a super tweeter, it still need a tweeter.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

That makes sense. For some reason, I think (In my head) ED and RAB/RAF are mids. Its really just ED (and BK) that are mids.

If I use the 38D1XJ007Mi/8, do I even need a lowpass? the slope is already pretty steep, and seems optimal for a woofer. I would need to quiet it a lot, the EST is quiet.

What is it about FerroFluid drivers that you love? This is the RAF series, right?

For the the 26805, I was feeling about the same. I would do a bandpass, with highpass at 180-250hz (depending on where I cross the woofer) and pull it back out at 3-7k. The higher I cross it, the more the tubing matters (for shaping response/peaks), right? Probably a green filter, at about 5 or 6 mm.

EST.... I have seen on Sonion doc that the EST should be put in after 7k, but on Vision ears elysium, they have it crossed at like 3k, maybe 4k (i havent heard, only seen in reviews). They say it gives a great timbre and speed to the mids. Ill have to test. Thoughts?

Is there any driver that you have heard that you would say is actually bad?

Thank you so much for your time and help.

Can you sharp band pass EST.. If you can, then use EST low.

Otherwise, use it is super tweeter

What's some nice ferro fluid drivers you recommend that I can find easily?

Drivers having extra F in front in Knowles.

FFC and FED.