Home-Made IEMs
Jul 14, 2019 at 7:17 AM Post #9,571 of 15,989
The Bourns version is 0.7ohms

https://uk.farnell.com/bourns/srr1260-391k/inductor-shielded-390uh-1a-10/dp/2531339

I will check coilcraft also

According to some known people(cannot name here, the thread and forum), LC crossover seems more better due to low energy and resistor parasitic losses.

My idea is 0.5uF on SWFK 32254 with 390uH(0.39mH) on HODVTEC high impedance 31516 and RAB32063 parallel with their own zobel(mixed zobel and not discreet due to space limitations).

And best part is that Bourns inductor is sealed, so no more EMF variable to play with.


Design is simple

Subwoofer, Mids, upper mids
HODVTEC 31516(dual vents closed)

Zobel
Rz= 214ohms
Cz= 0.220uF

Tubing
1.0mm ID/11mm length

Damper
Yellow damper after 4mm from spout



RAB 32063

Zobel
Rz= 38ohms
Cz= 5uF or nearby

Tubing
1.2mm ID/7mm length

Damper
Brown damper after 3mm from spout


Now fusing these zobel together and making these two driver in parallel


Adding a 0.39mH inductor in series to both of these parallel driver.

Tweeter above 10kHz
SWFK 32254 with 5uF or 4.7uF capacitor


Voila

This is the setup


But if we can fit the inductor in shell, it will be amazing

Coilcraft has smd shielded inductors as well. I use some of them.

I think your tubing ID for mids might be a bit small if you ask me. I don't know about size you'll choose for the highs but personally I try to avoid small ID diameter for mids and highs. I guess you'll have to trial and error it to see how it sounds. don't just go by the graph. But like everything in this craft, every case is different. so trial and error is key.

Also just think of this but if you don't care about the look you could basically mount the inductor on top so it's part of the faceplate (some of it could be sitting lower like iceberg do in the water if you get the analogy)
 
Last edited:
Jul 14, 2019 at 12:54 PM Post #9,572 of 15,989
Coilcraft has smd shielded inductors as well. I use some of them.

I think your tubing ID for mids might be a bit small if you ask me. I don't know about size you'll choose for the highs but personally I try to avoid small ID diameter for mids and highs. I guess you'll have to trial and error it to see how it sounds. don't just go by the graph. But like everything in this craft, every case is different. so trial and error is key.

Also just think of this but if you don't care about the look you could basically mount the inductor on top so it's part of the faceplate (some of it could be sitting lower like iceberg do in the water if you get the analogy)
Just checked
Coilcraft and Bourns are of same profile (coilcraft mss1048)

But I get that, I have more options of inductor to go with in coilcraft own website(plus way smaller option like 5x5mm also)
 
Last edited:
Jul 15, 2019 at 7:42 AM Post #9,574 of 15,989
Anyone has source for Lack3 from Taobao or AliExpress? Not ready to commit to huge quality yet. Just exploring ways to make my shells look for professional and shiny.

Open for suggestion for other methods.

I purchased from SoundLink on Aliexpress, who will do separate shipping thing, i think via sea freight down to Australia, which sucks pretty hard. Still waiting for it to arrive.
I asked him how long it will take, the answer i got back was "I have no idea", haha.

I did try purchasing via TaoBao, but it got knocked back at shipping, :frowning2:
 
Jul 15, 2019 at 7:59 AM Post #9,575 of 15,989
Jul 15, 2019 at 11:50 AM Post #9,576 of 15,989
The Bourns version is 0.7ohms

https://uk.farnell.com/bourns/srr1260-391k/inductor-shielded-390uh-1a-10/dp/2531339

I will check coilcraft also

According to some known people(cannot name here, the thread and forum), LC crossover seems more better due to low energy and resistor parasitic losses.

My idea is 0.5uF on SWFK 32254 with 390uH(0.39mH) on HODVTEC high impedance 31516 and RAB32063 parallel with their own zobel(mixed zobel and not discreet due to space limitations).

And best part is that Bourns inductor is sealed, so no more EMF variable to play with.


Design is simple

Subwoofer, Mids, upper mids
HODVTEC 31516(dual vents closed)

Zobel
Rz= 214ohms
Cz= 0.220uF

Tubing
1.0mm ID/11mm length

Damper
Yellow damper after 4mm from spout



RAB 32063

Zobel
Rz= 38ohms
Cz= 5uF or nearby

Tubing
1.2mm ID/7mm length

Damper
Brown damper after 3mm from spout


Now fusing these zobel together and making these two driver in parallel


Adding a 0.39mH inductor in series to both of these parallel driver.

Tweeter above 10kHz
SWFK 32254 with 5uF or 4.7uF capacitor


Voila

This is the setup


But if we can fit the inductor in shell, it will be amazing
replying to myself

this thing works
till the HODVTEC and RAB only
 
Jul 16, 2019 at 11:51 AM Post #9,577 of 15,989
Thanks, yes you are right the sonion 33AJ007i/9 have a tiny small vent between the soldering pads. So if I understand correctly the 33AJ007i/9 is equivalent to the DTEC series but is vented.
So far the sonion have nice bass with good punch oomphs (the vent is helping).






If you are willing to try taobao you can find there 2pin .78mm quality connectors for ~2$/piece
Regarding the .75mm/.78mm there is not a big difference at all.

One thing to consider is that those 2 pin types of connectors are tight fitting with the cable and sometimes it's difficult to push the cable inside. You can slightly enlarge the holes with a corresponding diameter kind of tool like tweezers. That's what I did on some of them that I bought, rotating the tweezers in the holes to make the cable easier to insert. or you could wait that the pins enlarges themselves with use.

Some people prefer MMCX connector because they are easier to insert the cable (better if you intend to switch cables frequently), they also rotate so it is easier to insert CIEM attached to them. Their plus are also their cons as they develop connection issues over time making the sound cutting off. Usually the cable male connector itself will be the weakest link and loose tightness.

On the other hand the 2 pins connectors are tightly fitting and have less chances of developing connection issues over time but sometimes the pins on the cables can break inside them, then you have no choice but to change the all plug, If the 2 pins connector gets too wide over time (by changing cable to frequently) then you will have difficulty keeping the cable attached. But again this happen after plugin/unplugging the cable many many times.

There is no real winner here, it is a preference thing. Personally i have not enough experience over time with both plugin system to make a valid judgement.

Regarding your english don't stress about it, most of the people here are not native english speaker (so am I) and learn over time.

What are the cons of using a Male 0.75mm C Pin Cable from KZ if inserted to a 0.78mm IEM, im planning to use my KZ Aptx HD Bluetooth Cable on a Tfz no. 3 or a TFZ T2 IEMs. will this work?, i heard that if a 0.78mm cable can widen the holes of the 0.75mm but what about the other way around?
 
Last edited:
Jul 16, 2019 at 12:49 PM Post #9,578 of 15,989
What are the cons of using a Male 0.75mm C Pin Cable from KZ if inserted to a 0.78mm IEM, im planning to use my KZ Aptx HD Bluetooth Cable on a Tfz no. 3 or a TFZ T2 IEMs. will this work?, i heard that if a 0.78mm cable can widen the holes of the 0.75mm but what about the other way around?
Its homemade iem group(sorry but it was necessary)
And I think all sorts of connection are bad, Jerry Harvey mini xlr type of connector(instead of 2pin), Hirose U.FL (mmcx)connectors are way better
 
Jul 16, 2019 at 1:11 PM Post #9,579 of 15,989
Does anyone has experiences with making 3D printing shells? I saw an old post on reddit about a guy making Campfire shells, but he didn’t share the file, only pictures.
Can anyone help me with making 3D model?
Here’s the link
 
Jul 16, 2019 at 7:17 PM Post #9,580 of 15,989
Fact: all passive electronic filters (like the RC lowpass/highlands we regularly use here) introduce a phase shift for all frequencies that are not passed through 100%.

My question: does that also hold true for acoustic filters like the dampers we use? Do they introduce phase shift?
 
Jul 16, 2019 at 9:41 PM Post #9,581 of 15,989
Fact: all passive electronic filters (like the RC lowpass/highlands we regularly use here) introduce a phase shift for all frequencies that are not passed through 100%.

My question: does that also hold true for acoustic filters like the dampers we use? Do they introduce phase shift?
They dont introduce phase shifts, but is like cotton muffling details and changing the pressure waveform which change the sound profile also
 
Jul 17, 2019 at 2:53 AM Post #9,582 of 15,989
What are the cons of using a Male 0.75mm C Pin Cable from KZ if inserted to a 0.78mm IEM, im planning to use my KZ Aptx HD Bluetooth Cable on a Tfz no. 3 or a TFZ T2 IEMs. will this work?, i heard that if a 0.78mm cable can widen the holes of the 0.75mm but what about the other way around?

A bit off topic but I can share my experience. The difference between 0.75 and 0.78 is so marginal I haven't noticed any fit issues. Just recently bought a TRN T2 balanced cable and it works fine with all my 0.78 earphones. This cable is really good quality, sounds spacious and solid, there is very little microphonics and it costs less than 10 USD. I will buy it again.
 
Jul 17, 2019 at 3:01 AM Post #9,583 of 15,989
Does anyone has experiences with making 3D printing shells? I saw an old post on reddit about a guy making Campfire shells, but he didn’t share the file, only pictures.
Can anyone help me with making 3D model?
Here’s the link
I have just ordered couple of 3D printed IEMs in my local 3D print shop, order will be done this week. For one of the designs I used this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1393636

You can try browsing Thingiverse, there are several designs available.

As for the prints my 3D printing shop will use some kind of UV plastic so I hope shells will look much nicer than printed with regular plastic. I'll share the results when I get them.
 
Jul 17, 2019 at 3:05 AM Post #9,584 of 15,989
As for the prints my 3D printing shop will use some kind of UV plastic so I hope shells will look much nicer than printed with regular plastic. I'll share the results when I get them.
Ne careful what you put in your ears. There is a difference between plastics and if they are rated for skin contact or not.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top