[Kulgrinda]

CIEM coming together nicely. Will post a final result soon

 

[eunice]

What resin is that? I love the black.

 

[Kulgrinda]

It is black transparent Dreve Fotoplast from Mcear. I liked black much better than clear, it hardened more evenly and looks nicer in my opinion. Will add Dreve lacquer for shiny look

 

[eunice]

What is the curing time compared to the clear fotoplast? Is it much longer?

 

[Kulgrinda]

Not much longer. I experimented prior finding best time/distance for my setup and lamp. My lamp has 3 intensity settings, low, mid and high. So for clear shells I expose 3x30s in low mode and 1x50s in mid. For black transparent shells I used 3x30s in low mode and 3x50s in mid. All was done at around 10 cm distance from the lamp, shell was placed on the rotating platform. This was only initial exposure I place it upside down and expose for 2 more minutes in mid setting (the same for both kind of shells). Then shell is removed and placed in oil bath and is exposed for 8 more minutes on high setting with a close proximity to the lamp. A shot of the experimenting phase (lamp is much too close to the shell) is below.

 

[Kulgrinda]

And the final result. Will have to improve my varnishing process and driver setup. Sound is too much dampened to my liking, I used green and white filters on GK driver. Will probably have to remove white driver from CI. Overall I'm happy with lessons learned of the first build and will keep on digging into this hobby

 

[DannyBouwhuis]

And the final result. Will have to improve my varnishing process and driver setup. Sound is too much dampened to my liking, I used green and white filters on GK driver. Will probably have to remove white driver from CI. Overall I'm happy with lessons learned of the first build and will keep on digging into this hobby

Looks great !!

Maybe some more sanding ? Then laquer en some polishing

Isnt it better to put the green on the ci and white on the twfk ?

On my last gk build I had a white on the twfk and a red on the ci, sounded pretty nice

Anyway keep up the good work

 

[Kulgrinda]

Looks great !!

Maybe some more sanding ? Then laquer en some polishing

Isnt it better to put the green on the ci and white on the twfk ?

On my last gk build I had a white on the twfk and a red on the ci, sounded pretty nice

Anyway keep up the good work

Thanks! What do you use for polishing? Some kind of paste and dremel wool discs? Or some kind of other material? This is not polished at all, only wet sanded with 350 before applying varnish.

I did not want piercing or sibilant sound so chose to dampen twfk a bit more. But I think I should have left CI undampened at all. Anyway this is only the first try, I'll probably dismantle them and keep as a testing pair for different driver setup. I did not find a proper way to set driver setup prior mounting them into the shell.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

For ease of DIY and newcomers
They can get P183 specific driver with wire soldered on already

That made my work way easier

no stress of overheating the drivers with soldering iron by mistake

 

[DannyBouwhuis]

Thanks! What do you use for polishing? Some kind of paste and dremel wool discs? Or some kind of other material? This is not polished at all, only wet sanded with 350 before applying varnish.

I did not want piercing or sibilant sound so chose to dampen twfk a bit more. But I think I should have left CI undampened at all. Anyway this is only the first try, I'll probably dismantle them and keep as a testing pair for different driver setup. I did not find a proper way to set driver setup prior mounting them into the shell.

I'm not that good with custom shells, but I always wet sand them, then apply laquer.. Cure it and use a polishing wheel without any polishing compound. I think you could polishing them directly after wetsanding if you use some real fine polishing compound but I havent tried that yet

You could try to build a jig to measure the response of the drivers, or do it by ear.. Or simulate your setup but please dont ask me how

*edit There are polishing compounds made for acrylic and other plastics, just wetsand them to 800 or 1200 then polishing right ?

 

[Bassiklee]

If I polish them, I sand to 1200, then use a white compound, followed by plastic polish, followed by a really soft terrycloth wheel with nothing on it. The compound and polish are done with a dremel. Takes less than 5 min per ear, since they're so small.

If I don't polish them, I hit them lightly with the red "scotch bright" wheel on a dremel, scuffing the shells to give the lacquer something to grab. I bought a bunch of lacquer from a company called Pro3Dure. It's not bad, it's essentially Lak-3, complete with the yellowing issue of Lak-3. I prefer Egger, which doesn't yellow. For the moment, Egger goes on clear shells, while this Pro3Dure goes on everything else. Might start experimenting with spraying, like this screen grab from a video.

 

[Riviera72]

I made a single driver with a knowles 32066 and I'm amazed by the sound, I used more than my jh angie and my nicehck nk10 (10ba)

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I made a single driver with a knowles 32066 and I'm amazed by the sound, I used more than my jh angie and my nicehck nk10 (10ba)

Nice looks, seriously

 

[ForceMajeure]

If I polish them, I sand to 1200, then use a white compound, followed by plastic polish, followed by a really soft terrycloth wheel with nothing on it. The compound and polish are done with a dremel. Takes less than 5 min per ear, since they're so small.

If I don't polish them, I hit them lightly with the red "scotch bright" wheel on a dremel, scuffing the shells to give the lacquer something to grab. I bought a bunch of lacquer from a company called Pro3Dure. It's not bad, it's essentially Lak-3, complete with the yellowing issue of Lak-3. I prefer Egger, which doesn't yellow. For the moment, Egger goes on clear shells, while this Pro3Dure goes on everything else. Might start experimenting with spraying, like this screen grab from a video.

Where did you buy the pro3dure lacquer?
Directly from them?

They are also selling resin and other stuff as well.

Also yeah JH is using the spraying technique. they also roll it by hand near a uv light for curing at least that's what I saw.

 

[Bassiklee]

I got it from Warner. It's quite a bit cheaper than the others, so I figured I'd give it a shot. I think their resins are closer in price to the others, but the lacquer was less than half as much.