[ForceMajeure]

I made a single driver with a knowles 32066 and I'm amazed by the sound, I used more than my jh angie and my nicehck nk10 (10ba)

These look cool

 

[cjxj]

Couple of Tips: As I was working on some CIEMS for some fellow musicians, I thought of a couple very simple things that I do or use all the time that may be useful to some. I've learned A LOT from this group, and although these "cheapskate tips" might seem trivial by comparison, thought someone might find useful. So... use, discount, disregard, or perhaps share your own.

1) Tube cleaning tool. Seems they get lost all the time and I have guys that I've made CIEM's for asking if I have more. I know they're cheap, BUT they're easily fabricated using your discarded high E string when you change strings on your guitar. (see pics) Bend a section of string around another larger string, or around the tip of your tweezers. Cut the resulting wire loop to about an inch long. Drill a 1/16 in hole (or smaller) into the end of a skewer (shown covered by red heat shrink) or small dowel. Superglue the wire into the hole. Cut skewer to length and finish with heat shrink tube (optional). An even quicker/dirtier method is to leave wire loop a bit longer, cover most of it with small heat shrink and make a few bends so you can handle it and make it visible.


2) For those in the US, Harbor Freight frequently has a super cheap "Dremel" like tool set that's often on sale for $6.99 (reg $9.99) that includes a lot of bits. It's small and not very powerful, but I find it very useful for working on shells. I never use my full size Dremel except for polishing areas I can't reach with my buffer.

3) Face plates: I buy various colors of 1/16 in plexiglass from ebay. Do make sure to sand the area on the perimeter that joins the shells and use a good UV glue such as Bondic or else a 2 part epoxy. I've did have one of my own covers come off when dropped, but I had not sanded the joining area and had used the shell resin to attach rather than glue.

4) Wood face plates: I don't do too many, but have used thin iron-on veneers from Amazon. I think the brand is Band-it. I put it over the 1/16" veneer (see example in my avitar and pick below). Sometimes I will use different colors underneath the veneer for left and right CIEM. See photo. BTW the laser engraver is a weak / cheap one from Gear Best, but it works on the veneer. I think I paid $70 for it. Not very good for much else.


5) Cheap 5 second UV glues: For general use, I find that the $1 / pen stuff (look for "5 second fix") you can buy on Ebay works fine. I use for cable/wiring end support, keeping BA's from moving around, immobilizing crossover components, etc.

 

[AmG7]

Hi guys I just take my first impressions what do you think it’s fine or do I need to take another one

 

[AmG7]

 

[eunice]

Looks ok to me. You will have to make sure the wax is filling the cracks. You might need to fill some wax into the larger cracks with a brush before dipping.

 

[eunice]

In second thought, that one larger crack around the bend is probably time consuming to get right.

 

[AmG7]

In second thought, that one larger crack around the bend is probably time consuming to get right.

Probably I’ll take another one just to make sure it’s ok

 

[Bassiklee]

Where did you buy the pro3dure lacquer?
Directly from them?

They are also selling resin and other stuff as well.

Also yeah JH is using the spraying technique. they also roll it by hand near a uv light for curing at least that's what I saw.

That screen grab is from the video tour of JH.

 

[ForceMajeure]

That screen grab is from the video tour of JH.

yeah I know haha

here you can see the curing toward the end https://twitter.com/i/status/1035376754268033025

same here https://twitter.com/i/status/1039980321717059585

 

[Bassiklee]

Without giving away numbers, the pro3dure shell resin works out to about 2/3 the cost of Fotoplast. It's actually cheaper than the lacquer. I might give it a try, but the newest Fotoplast is pretty hard to beat.

As far as JH spraying and then curing by hand, I wonder what topcoat they're using. The quick spin in that light is nowhere near long enough to cure anything I've used.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

@ForceMajeure
We can use Dayton DATS V2 for measurement

for impedance, voice coil, Thiele parameters, etc

DATS V2 provides the following unique advantages:
•Ultra-linear impedance response measurement for loudspeaker drivers and complete systems
•Accurate measurement of loudspeaker electromechanical parameters (Fs, Qts, Vas, and many more)
•Measurement of advanced Wright Model parameters (Kr, Xr, Ki, Xi) for precision simulations
•Precise, high-resolution impedance response measurements with 30,000 data points (1 Hz to 20,000 Hz)
•Save and compare up to 20 impedance graphs simultaneously within one test file
•Integrated quality control feature set provides pass/fail parameter measurement (QC Pack)
•Sensitive rub and buzz detection functionality reveals hidden flaws in individual drivers (QC Pack)
•Software signal generator with selectable waveform, frequency, and amplitude
•Generates sine, square, triangle, saw tooth, impulse, pink noise, and log sweeps
•Oscilloscope software mode with dual traces, plus adjustable time and amplitude scales
•Oscilloscope and generator modes are compatible with other audio interfaces
•Quality test interface hardware assembled using precision SMT components and automation
•High-quality alligator clip leads minimize contact resistance for improved consistency
•Includes method for calculating Vas from specified Mmd
•Faster-than-ever hardware startup time virtually eliminates warm-up/cool-down
•Software is compatible with Windows XP, Vista, 7, 8, or 10 with no added configuration needed


well any experience builder

i need help

i have SWFK 31736 in 2mm ID/4mm Lenght tube , and i need it crossover in such a fashion that i can have air in Noble Savant DIY build.

savant measurement by brooko on veritas II

it is not calibrated properly but other measurement(other website) shows that savant cannot do a proper 20kHz extension

and some reviewers say that sound stage is artificially stretched as the air in treble is missing

i would be going with 0.5uF, 1uF and 1.5uF as mentioned here in this thread(dont remember which page though)

 

[ForceMajeure]

@ForceMajeure
We can use Dayton DATS V2 for measurement

for impedance, voice coil, Thiele parameters, etc

DATS V2 provides the following unique advantages:
•Ultra-linear impedance response measurement for loudspeaker drivers and complete systems
•Accurate measurement of loudspeaker electromechanical parameters (Fs, Qts, Vas, and many more)
•Measurement of advanced Wright Model parameters (Kr, Xr, Ki, Xi) for precision simulations
•Precise, high-resolution impedance response measurements with 30,000 data points (1 Hz to 20,000 Hz)
•Save and compare up to 20 impedance graphs simultaneously within one test file
•Integrated quality control feature set provides pass/fail parameter measurement (QC Pack)
•Sensitive rub and buzz detection functionality reveals hidden flaws in individual drivers (QC Pack)
•Software signal generator with selectable waveform, frequency, and amplitude
•Generates sine, square, triangle, saw tooth, impulse, pink noise, and log sweeps
•Oscilloscope software mode with dual traces, plus adjustable time and amplitude scales
•Oscilloscope and generator modes are compatible with other audio interfaces
•Quality test interface hardware assembled using precision SMT components and automation
•High-quality alligator clip leads minimize contact resistance for improved consistency
•Includes method for calculating Vas from specified Mmd
•Faster-than-ever hardware startup time virtually eliminates warm-up/cool-down
•Software is compatible with Windows XP, Vista, 7, 8, or 10 with no added configuration needed


well any experience builder

i need help

i have SWFK 31736 in 2mm ID/4mm Lenght tube , and i need it crossover in such a fashion that i can have air in Noble Savant DIY build.

savant measurement by brooko on veritas II

it is not calibrated properly but other measurement(other website) shows that savant cannot do a proper 20kHz extension

and some reviewers say that sound stage is artificially stretched as the air in treble is missing

i would be going with 0.5uF, 1uF and 1.5uF as mentioned here in this thread(dont remember which page though)

Interesting about the Dats v2,

regarding crossing over the swfk. try 0.68uf or 0.75uf in series. it depends how it will react with the rest of your setup since the "juice" will split between the drivers differently depending on the crossover used thus the spl might change for some drivers. you will have to "trial and error"...
Knowles has other swfk drivers with built in damping that are worth checking like the 32254/5

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Interesting about the Dats v2,

regarding crossing over the swfk. try 0.68uf or 0.75uf in series. it depends how it will react with the rest of your setup since the "juice" will split between the drivers differently depending on the crossover used thus the spl might change for some drivers. you will have to "trial and error"...
Knowles has other swfk drivers with built in damping that are worth checking like the 32254/5

Thanks bro

And I need straight non damped SWFK as I need to extract as much I can in HF

 

[ForceMajeure]

Thanks bro

And I need straight non damped SWFK as I need to extract as much I can in HF

you will get good high frequency extension even with the damped one. they will just have their peaks less prominent.

 

[dhruvmeena96]

you will get good high frequency extension even with the damped one. they will just have their peaks less prominent.

Well, the damped SWFK has better separation
As per one of my engineer friend here
Well you are correct

He said that undamped SWFK will be as nasty as HODVTEC.
So thanks bro


Zobel damped RAB 32257 without damper
GQ green damper

@Furco build

The most amazing set I have made till date
aliexpress custom universal shell
Mailed to mom