Home-Made IEMs
Oct 19, 2018 at 8:07 AM Post #7,771 of 15,989
Solution is to connect the other driver :wink:

Interesting subject indeed.
What I don't get is the theory behind this phenomenon; is it due to the 3300 driver acting like a 2nd air chamber, absorbing and releasing air and messing with HF of the active driver?
But then why connecting the 3300 driver would solve the issue? Both drivers will never play at the same speed since they will play different frequencies and that air suction/release event will be there with both drivers connected too.
Would you mind getting deeper in the explanation?
 
Oct 19, 2018 at 8:25 AM Post #7,772 of 15,989
What I don't get is the theory behind this phenomenon; is it due to the 3300 driver acting like a 2nd air chamber, absorbing and releasing air and messing with HF of the active driver?
exactly
But then why connecting the 3300 driver would solve the issue? Both drivers will never play at the same speed since they will play different frequencies and that air suction/release event will be there with both drivers connected too.
because then you have diaphragm moving (preferably in the same direction = phase) which creates pressure and moves the air in that driver too
 
Oct 19, 2018 at 11:25 AM Post #7,773 of 15,989
I remember reading about empty cavities acting as filters somewhere...think it was to do with reducing sound of a car exhaust LOL - but it works the same with any sound.

I'm guessing the unconnected 3300 driver acted as a tube connected to an empty cavity and became a band pass filter?
 
Oct 19, 2018 at 3:17 PM Post #7,774 of 15,989
Guys, does anybody have any experience with bellsing branded drivers? In some previous posts (a lot of pages before) I read that they sound identical to Knowles. On Ali there is a Bellsing CI-22955 for 9€ a pair, from Soundlink, and I am considering getting a pair, along with a pair of TWFK-30017 for 15€, also Bellsing and from Soundlink.

P.S. What's the difference between SWFK, DWFK and TWFK? I can only see that SWFK has no ports, TWFK has one, and DWFK has two. What are the practical differences between them?
 
Last edited:
Oct 20, 2018 at 12:45 AM Post #7,775 of 15,989
Hi guys!
I have two friends who are fitness athletes and they asked me to make CIEMs of three drivers with a Bluetooth APTx module.
I accepted the challenge so I continue practicing the construction of these headphones that I love but I have a question:

- What Bluetooth module with APTx do you recommend? If is possible, with 2 pins.
 
Oct 20, 2018 at 4:24 PM Post #7,776 of 15,989
I’ve had a lot of people asking me how I get logos to look perfect with my Laser Engraver. So here is my process. I hope you find value in it.

Starts with a file in the engraving software.

8D09058E-4176-443D-B94A-DA682F6A5912.jpeg

I have created templates for size through trial and error.

I then select a preview to cut out the border of the image so I can see where I need to place the item to be engraved. I just tape masking tape across, I’m sure I could create a jig but this is easy and doesn’t take any time to setup.

A69B6AD1-8A55-4649-9CEE-FA1BEBA4EB10.jpeg

I use condiment cups and blue tack to hold the monitor in place.

30338D91-B31A-4A68-9DD1-04D71A6232CB.jpeg

I then use a dry erase marker to mark the back of the monitor so I have a reference point to make it straight.

2F1E7648-C9D9-4ABA-A6D1-97880D01746F.jpeg

I place the monitor so it’s level with the masking tape and line up the lines I’ve created on the back of the monitor.


F57CC65F-89A1-48A3-BCE0-0342EA84959D.jpeg

I’ve created marks on my engraver power dial so I know what the ideal power is. This took several hours of trial and error to find the sweet spot for me.

1F991A7A-B560-49F0-8972-E1EFB30DAA05.jpeg

Once done, I inspect and clean the Faceplate to ensure the cut was good and centered.

F9658F03-05CF-4339-B812-40C190B1E03B.jpeg

I created a white paste using, white uv marking paint and Fotoplast. I then take a double pointed tooth pick to carefully work it into the design.

AFCDCC1B-2094-46F9-8B5B-D46ED16E8230.jpeg

4232367B-976B-4FD2-9ADE-7E897D160363.jpeg

Once I have a good base I cure it.

89C8A2E4-74ED-446A-9F1C-E26CC056B5E2.jpeg

Then I repeat to fill in all the areas, I cure in layers so that there are no thick areas resulting in the top curing and liquid underneath. By doing this I can easily sand all the excess off without jeopardizing the detailed areas.

I then use a curved tool and spread clear Fotoplast over the top to give a nice appearance.

DA63547B-6B0C-4A94-8DAF-C3B87962B573.jpeg

The results are amazing.

EB97443A-3E58-47F4-9F41-E4829C3B1CC2.jpeg

As always, patience it the key to getting it right. The below is final result with a coat of Egger Lacquer.

B6CFFC77-2FB0-4E9E-B0CC-5F41756A0215.jpeg
 

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Oct 22, 2018 at 6:04 AM Post #7,778 of 15,989
I’ve had a lot of people asking me how I get logos to look perfect with my Laser Engraver. So here is my process. I hope you find value in it.

Starts with a file in the engraving software.



I have created templates for size through trial and error.

I then select a preview to cut out the border of the image so I can see where I need to place the item to be engraved. I just tape masking tape across, I’m sure I could create a jig but this is easy and doesn’t take any time to setup.



I use condiment cups and blue tack to hold the monitor in place.



I then use a dry erase marker to mark the back of the monitor so I have a reference point to make it straight.



I place the monitor so it’s level with the masking tape and line up the lines I’ve created on the back of the monitor.




I’ve created marks on my engraver power dial so I know what the ideal power is. This took several hours of trial and error to find the sweet spot for me.



Once done, I inspect and clean the Faceplate to ensure the cut was good and centered.



I created a white paste using, white uv marking paint and Fotoplast. I then take a double pointed tooth pick to carefully work it into the design.





Once I have a good base I cure it.



Then I repeat to fill in all the areas, I cure in layers so that there are no thick areas resulting in the top curing and liquid underneath. By doing this I can easily sand all the excess off without jeopardizing the detailed areas.

I then use a curved tool and spread clear Fotoplast over the top to give a nice appearance.



The results are amazing.



As always, patience it the key to getting it right. The below is final result with a coat of Egger Lacquer.

Looks so great :D What is your dye to get black opaque?
 
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Oct 23, 2018 at 9:43 AM Post #7,782 of 15,989
I have a question. Currently I'm only using mmcx connector and hopefully will go to 2 pin soon. But how do I correctly orient the polarity of the 2 pins connector in the shell? Not a problem for now as I'm only using 1 driver with no RC. But soon will buy like a kit or make my own crossover.

I've just started making universal in ear for now.
 
Oct 24, 2018 at 2:38 AM Post #7,783 of 15,989
I have a question. Currently I'm only using mmcx connector and hopefully will go to 2 pin soon. But how do I correctly orient the polarity of the 2 pins connector in the shell? Not a problem for now as I'm only using 1 driver with no RC. But soon will buy like a kit or make my own crossover.

I've just started making universal in ear for now.

sdfsdfsdfsdfsd.JPG dsfsdfsdfsf.JPG

for the cable, the pin closest to the colored dot is the positive signal
 

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