[Jedrula1]

regarding the glow like colors you get using the alcohol ink, my guess is that those dyes have a mix of colors in them and one of them is fluorescent reactant. meaning when part of the light spectrum hits it, the color you see will changed slightly. it's part of the color that was used. I had various dyes (not alcohol) and one of them was pink. that pink has a different color depending on where you look at it. it even had a fluorescent green/yellow tint, kinda of the same thing you are experiencing.

I don't think you can do anything about it. I guess parts of those alcohol dyes have those colors embedded in them.

Could be. It will be great to know wich alcohol ink is good, and wich is not. What dyes are you using with good result?

 

[ForceMajeure]

Resin obsession worked great. I had good luck with chinese resin dyes from ebay as well as alumilite.
Of course curing times are way longer and on some colors it was very long (f.e yellow or orange that practically fight UV so it doesn't penetrate). Sometimes you could use slightly less and still it will look to have the same color in the end, especially once you placed a faceplate over it and it has components inside. That's why you can always try to dilute it in case you have too long curing times, especially on darker colors.

If I was to use alcohol ink, I would probably make them myself using sharpies and 95% alcohol (there are some tutorials on YT). At least I would be sure the color is the same as the sharpie. then I could try and mix them to obtain different colors.

 

[Jedrula1]

I had good luck with chinese resin dyes from ebay as well as alumilite.

You are talking about alumilite that resinobsession sells?

 

[ForceMajeure]

yes.

If you don't mind to dive into taobao there are some dyes as well with many colors to choose as well.
But shipping liquids can be an issue depending on the forwarder used and amount

 

[ForceMajeure]

Speaking of taobao, I also had some from taobao that are good with many shades as well. they are oil based dyes (like most resin dyes) and they mix nicely.

 

[AmG7]

Hello there! First of all - use search option. Everything you asked was mentioned before dozen times.
In a nutshell - Ci is great for bass and mids but is lack of highs - look at the FR. Better way is to pay more and buy TWFK or GQ (two driver modules). GQ doesn't need a crossover, the TWFK needs simple one - lot of design was mentioned in this topic. With dampers you will get a better result (depending on what result you wanna get), I prefer 2pin sockets in my constructions due to better reliability, but it is harder to install them. MMCX has such a one specified position, where signal can disappear for the moment.
Fingers crossed for your first pair!

Thanks Jedrula I decided to do a simple design with the CI for my first set, later I'll do the GQ or TWFK, depending on the sound that I get

so where do you get the sockets and the cable? I was searching and I found this connectors I don't know if there a good
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/West...32780056629.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.rkzczT

And for the cable I''ll probably try the weston cable but is $40 any suggestion ?

 

[Jedrula1]

Thanks Jedrula I decided to do a simple design with the CI for my first set, later I'll do the GQ or TWFK, depending on the sound that I get

so where do you get the sockets and the cable? I was searching and I found this connectors I don't know if there a good
https://es.aliexpress.com/item/West...32780056629.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.rkzczT

And for the cable I''ll probably try the weston cable but is $40 any suggestion ?

If waiting is not a problem for you, soundlink is a pretty good source of all diy components. I used this sockets as well as cables that soundlink offers. For one driver build I don't think you will notice the difference...

 

[Portofly]

ask me what you want to know here.

I'm looking for a sort of guide on what areas to build up with lak3 to ensure a good tight seal. Are there specific areas that you'd build up more than others on a piece that may be having sealing issues?
Also, when doing buildup of certain areas, how do you ensure that the IEM still has a smooth finish, and doesn't end up looking like it has different layers? I seem to remember running into a picture at one point with different areas highlighted, but I didn't save it, and now I can't seem to find it.

 

[Portofly]

Alright, big dye review time! Not so positive as I expected tho... I tested alcohol ink (well known on this forum) and Bloodline Tattoo ink (probably the same as JHaudio use).

First - Alcohol ink:
Mixed instantly. Without any problem. But there is first, and only one, but important problem - at the top of coloured liquid resin there is a thin layer of reflecting dyed resin in ugly pinkish/yellowish/orangish strange colour. Tried to make proper photos using high quality camera - it was hard, but I hope you will understand what I am talking about. The colour of resin is slightly different than the dye itself, especially using 'State' colour - should be grey, the resin unfortunately turns green. After curing (muuuuch harder and longer to get proper thickness shell) the shells are also with this ugly glow that is visible the most in sunlight. It is totally undesirable effect. I will be so grateful for all tips from people that are using alcohol inks what to do to prevent this effect. Photos:

Amethyst colour - very nice at the beginning (a drop dried on the paper), but this glow visible inside the uncured resin and shell as well...

Next the 'Crimson' colour. Same situation - ugly orangish blur in liquid and cured resin:

And the worst result. The target was to get the smoky grey transparent shell end i get... grassy green... c'mon what i am doing wrong...

Then, the Bloodline Tattoo inks. Mixing - very hard. It is almost impossible to get transparent colour. The dye doesn't mix, only creates really small droplets inside resin. Cures very well tho. This dye is not proper to get transparent shell - as it is showed in the picture below the resin is covered with thousands small dots - unmixed dye. Didn't have time to test this dye to make opaque colours - will try it in the nearest future.

All dyes was mixed with Dreve Fotoplast SI O, not covered with Lack 3. If anybody has any idea what to do to improve colouring transparent resin I will be very grateful. Also - all suggestions about other dyes are very welcome

I've said it before, I'll say it again. Resin obsession dyes are made for this. they are a little more expensive, but they mix PERFECTLY, leave your fotoplast transparent, and do not hinder curing. I highly recommend you try them even if you only grab one color, you WILL be pleased with the results. The shells in my profile pic are colored with them.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I'm looking for a sort of guide on what areas to build up with lak3 to ensure a good tight seal. Are there specific areas that you'd build up more than others on a piece that may be having sealing issues?
Also, when doing buildup of certain areas, how do you ensure that the IEM still has a smooth finish, and doesn't end up looking like it has different layers? I seem to remember running into a picture at one point with different areas highlighted, but I didn't save it, and now I can't seem to find it.

Usually the way to go is to use a motorized turner (~15rpm is the right speed) and cover the all iem with lacquer in one go. let it turn without curing for 3-5 minutes and then cure under uv while it is still turning.
That is the way to go if you know there are no issues with the seal.


If you want to build up more layers you need to know where one is experiencing seal issues.

Now, the major part that is responsible for the seal is at the entry of the ear canal and before the second bend, but mainly the entry of the ear canal.

I don't recommend making build ups unless you know where one has an issue with seal.

Regarding build ups if you want to do them and want it to look like there is no additional layers, you'll need to do the build up area first, cure and add a final coat to the whole iem and cure again. this is the "easiest way".
Another way would be to add layers after a full cure but then you will need to buff them especially where the transition between added layers occurs, even then it doesn't always look clean to scrutinizing eyes.

Last thing, some build ups are better done with resin actually than lacquer. Lacquer could be too thin to add a significant layer in one go. Add a layer of resin where needed then cure, sand and then lacquer the whole iem.

Remember that sanding is your friend for all cases. You can always sand down with 600 grit even the lacquer and add lacquer again.

 

[Im1fan2nv]

Guys, out of curiosity has anyone tested the B-7000 glue? I've been surfing through some Chinese DIY pages and this glue apparently it's pretty popular out there. I was going to buy Loctite 495 as suggested by @Shilohsjustice but the B-7000 is considerably cheaper here in my country.

I use the TP-2500 on AliExpress store name is NewNet. It's a UV cure and It works very very well especially for attaching the tubes to the drivers.

 

[Lucas Taboada]

Anyone here use red dental wax like this one to smooth impressions?

What temperature do you guys dip your impressions? I've tried Shiloh's suggestion at 55˚C but this wax its almost solid at this temperature, so I'm dipping around 65˚C but it gets too thick and the finished shells are hurting my ears. I only need the wax to smooth out my impression, because they already have a good fit but I'm having trouble with getting a even coat without bubbles and drops at higher temperatures than 70˚C.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I use the TP-2500 on AliExpress store name is NewNet. It's a UV cure and It works very very well especially for attaching the tubes to the drivers.

Does the TP-2500 cures to be hard as resin(has no flexibility) or does it cure a bit like silicone/rubber and is flexible?

 

[tarhana]

Anyone here use red dental wax like this one to smooth impressions?

What temperature do you guys dip your impressions? I've tried Shiloh's suggestion at 55˚C but this wax its almost solid at this temperature, so I'm dipping around 65˚C but it gets too thick and the finished shells are hurting my ears. I only need the wax to smooth out my impression, because they already have a good fit but I'm having trouble with getting a even coat without bubbles and drops at higher temperatures than 70˚C.

i use similar wax, (different brand) I dip my impressions about 52-55 celsius. maybe you should buy another brand. if you're interested i can look up for mine's brand name.

btw guys what glue you recommend to bond tubing to drivers? i know people use loctite and bondic but i want something can hold up but easy to break apart for experimenting.

 

[Im1fan2nv]

Does the TP-2500 cures to be hard as resin(has no flexibility) or does it cure a bit like silicone/rubber and is flexible?

It's a rubber type cure. It's used for touch screens on iPads and phones etc.