Home-Made IEMs
Jul 24, 2018 at 1:28 AM Post #7,562 of 15,974
These are really good looking!
How are you mixing these dyes?
Drop by drop in a bottle, then shaking them properly and waiting some time for the bubbles to settle?
No. Just pouring resin to the clear plastic cup, then adding dye drop by drop to get wanted color, and mix it using small stick. Than few hours of waiting is necessary to be sure that resin is bubble free.
 
Craft Ears Stay updated on Craft Ears at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
https://www.facebook.com/craftears https://www.instagram.com/craft.ears/ https://www.craftears.com/
Jul 24, 2018 at 7:57 AM Post #7,563 of 15,974
Hello! I did not post here for quite some time, but I've just finished my universal in-ear headphones now. Some of you were curious about the design and the sound, etc. Here is a picture of the headphones (with a temporary cord) and a frequency-response curve of the sound.

To begin with, this is still a prototype, but a fully functional one. I have made the design in 3D (with Onshape) and then used the service of 3D-Hubs to print it in black resin. The result was very successful I think! But it still won't be in the same class as injection molding or other mass production techniques. However, it works very well for prototype use.

In the internal design, I only use a single driver (Knowles SR balanced armature) and an electronic filter in conjunction with an acoustic filter. This combination beats everything else I tested before, so I'm very pleased!

Now to the sound, I can only say that I am extremely satisfied! It's a crystal clear sound with a good 3D soundstage, as the sound both gets wide, deep and you can almost notice things up and down in the mix. The music becomes alive without being too intrusive. Very well balanced sound with very low noise, deep sub bass and very good high frequency extension. The only thing that's "bad" with these is that they are hard to drive. The volume has to be set high, so they are not the most easy to drive headphones, but works perfectly well for me with my phone. Because they isolate sounds so well it is almost like wearing a pair of earplugs.

If you look at the frequency curve, you may find it to be very strange, but that 6500Hz dip is very intentional. Unless the measured program or microphone is broken, that area needed to be removed. My ears would bleed from all the "S" sounds otherwise.

Thank you for all the help in this forum! I really appreciate it!

/Anders

In Ear - v2.png In-ear_proto1.png
 
Jul 25, 2018 at 4:15 PM Post #7,564 of 15,974
Just wanna say, that Resinobsessions dyes are so far the best in colouring Fotoplast. The bigest disadvantage is small amount of colours available. Got some problems with getting black opaque tho - it is so hard to cure with proper wall thickness ...

One trick I use to get totally opaque blacks is to apply a thin coat of solid black nail gel to the inside of the shell. I get great results.

IMG_9463.JPG
 
Jul 27, 2018 at 4:17 AM Post #7,565 of 15,974
IMG_2150.JPG IMG_2152.JPG

Do you guys sand a good amount of these highlighted parts in your impressions?
I was just smoothing a little bit, but it is a little difficult to fit my shells in this part of my ears, then I saw a video from Alclair, where they cut this part straight. I think that could improve comfort but I'm afraid to sand/cut more and the CIEM become too loose, or this part doesn't have anything to do with that? any thoughts?

Here's a image from 64audio where it seems that they smooth alot this part too:
Captura de Tela 2018-07-27 às 05.19.16.png
 
Last edited:
Jul 27, 2018 at 6:09 AM Post #7,566 of 15,974


Do you guys sand a good amount of these highlighted parts in your impressions?
I was just smoothing a little bit, but it is a little difficult to fit my shells in this part of my ears, then I saw a video from Alclair, where they cut this part straight. I think that could improve comfort but I'm afraid to sand/cut more and the CIEM become too loose, or this part doesn't have anything to do with that? any thoughts?

Here's a image from 64audio where it seems that they smooth alot this part too:

I notices the same, initial once always hurt in that area. I also saw some videos on internet and cut that section and its much better.
 
Jul 29, 2018 at 11:58 AM Post #7,568 of 15,974
What is the best way to fix permanently 2pin socket in the shell? So far, I have used shell resin (S/IO) and drop by drop cure it around the socket, but this connection is not as much durable as I expect, and sometimes it is possible to break the thin layer of resin and press the socket inside the shell destroying all your work....
 
Last edited:
Craft Ears Stay updated on Craft Ears at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
https://www.facebook.com/craftears https://www.instagram.com/craft.ears/ https://www.craftears.com/
Jul 29, 2018 at 1:01 PM Post #7,572 of 15,974
Try it, or if you prefer uv glues try something like Bondic: https://notaglue.com/
Edit: there is a specific glue from Dreve named Fotofix which is used to bond the faceplate to the shell and it cures under uv lights, it could be worth a shot

I second the Bondic suggestion. I used it for my build attaching tubes to drivers & shells, & clear faceplates. It worked great for me.

It's also pretty handy for other household fixes.
 
Jul 30, 2018 at 11:05 AM Post #7,573 of 15,974
Hi,

I've finally received my final materials. Could you guys please let me know if there are any problems with how I trimmed these impressions? Are they "finished" sufficiently?

I can easily insert them, they sit comfortably in the ear and seal well.

Will be waxing before making the moulds. Shells will be made with fotoplast.

Will the wax build up enough fill in the tip on the left impression?

Thank you!!

IMG-7963.JPG IMG-7964.JPG IMG-7965.JPG IMG-7966.JPG IMG-7967.JPG
 
Jul 31, 2018 at 5:05 PM Post #7,574 of 15,974
Got a problem to solve. I have to make an ciem with very small ear canal - so small that it is impossible to have two soundbores. I have to connect one 1ID and one 2ID tube earlier into one 2ID tube. The total lengths are the same - why the freq responce is so different between 5khz and 8khz? The blue graph shows two separate soundbores (2ID 15mm long, 1ID 20mm long). The purple graph was measured with a usage of adapter (2ID 5mm long and 1ID 10mm long into 2ID 10mm long) - so the total length is the same. Have no idea what causes such a cavity in mid-high area. Any suggestions :wink:?

Zrzut_ekranu_2018_07_31_o_22_54_13.png
 
Craft Ears Stay updated on Craft Ears at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
https://www.facebook.com/craftears https://www.instagram.com/craft.ears/ https://www.craftears.com/
Jul 31, 2018 at 6:02 PM Post #7,575 of 15,974
Got a problem to solve. I have to make an ciem with very small ear canal - so small that it is impossible to have two soundbores. I have to connect one 1ID and one 2ID tube earlier into one 2ID tube. The total lengths are the same - why the freq responce is so different between 5khz and 8khz? The blue graph shows two separate soundbores (2ID 15mm long, 1ID 20mm long). The purple graph was measured with a usage of adapter (2ID 5mm long and 1ID 10mm long into 2ID 10mm long) - so the total length is the same. Have no idea what causes such a cavity in mid-high area. Any suggestions :wink:?

Zrzut_ekranu_2018_07_31_o_22_54_13.png

If you hadn't explained this, I would've thought that this is a demonstration of a damper of some sorts (maybe not a proper damper which has an effect starting from 1K). My guess is that you end up with less volume of air in the purple scenario that actually does have this effect. Perhaps using a slightly larger combined tube would work, maybe a 2.2-2.5mm ID 10mm long tube (which would change peaks in the end and might be even worse).

My second guess is that your bass driver went from 20mm 1ID tube to 10mm 1ID + 20mm 2ID which is obviously more air meaning a stronger treble from this driver (less damping). Because it reduced treble frequencies, it looks like your drivers are out of phase meaning that the increased treble from this driver actually reduces treble being put out from the other driver. - This is a wild guess and there is no way for me to know the kind of crossover and driver configuration you are using.

And one more probably completely wrong guess would be that that sound energy from treble driver doesn't fully enter your ear canal because some of it goes back to the bass driver once the sound gets to the point where it 'splits' towards ear canal and other driver.

Someone please educate me if anything I've said isn't logical, I am just trying to help with pretty limited knowledge. Also @Jedrula1 , keep updating us - especially what ended up being the real reason that was causing this.
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top