[Jedrula1]

@Jedrula1 , so I've been doing some research about your problem (and potentially mine in the future). There are all kinds of tube connectors, medical grade and aquarium grade, that could potentially with minimal modifications solve your problem. I have yet to find the perfect one, but here is what I googled and the connectors that could potentially work. I've tried - vynil/silicone/pvc/flexible tubing connector/fittings. All kinds of connectors will pop up, many of which are even smaller than what we need.

Here are some examples:

Spoiler

Number 4, 5, 6 is the type of connector that could work - would just need to cut the ribbed parts to reduce the size of connector. Finding the 2mm ID one might be problematic.


This type works with OD of tubes, this specific one is for 2.5mm OD tubes which is way to small for 2mm ID tubes.

Cool! What is the best way to get this adapters?

I recently made a set of CIEMs for someone with a very small canal. I was able to use some very thin walled stainless capillary tube from EBAY. Used 1mm id for dual bass drivers and 1.5mm id for the TWFK mid/high. Only had to use if for the last 1/2 inch or so. Tedious but worked out well.

And how the FR curves changed after replacing silicon tubes with steel tubes?

 

[JoyjeetPanday]

Thanks for the response but I think you're misunderstood what I meant. I'm not talking about 3D printing the shell of the IEM, I meant something like this...



I did try searching, but I'm not sure if I used the wrong keywords or of it hasn't been talked about much as I couldn't really find much about it.

Not quite sure about you're requirement, but I think something of this sort might solve your purpose.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Con...l?spm=2114.10010108.1000023.10.4ae04910mEVusa

Or these two links come with drivers, cheap ones. If you don't like how they sound just ditch them and use the housing.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/RUK...VVzv&aff_short_key=jiMVVzv&aff_platform=msite

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/KZ-...VVzv&aff_short_key=jiMVVzv&aff_platform=msite

 

[Ivan TT]

Same here, it's like magic well beyond my abilities alas.

Having said that there's an easy way into DIY, just built myself a pair of IEMs using these shells:

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=557215622902 and RAB-32257, same drivers as in XR4 and Comet.

After peeling bass vent covers off and fiddling with eartips/fit I've got most amasing sound, including low-end extension on par with dynamic drivers. This set is quite source dependant, needs low impedance out though, pairing with Mojo is just lovely.

While I bought green filters too ended not using them, highs are just right to me. BA's are housed inside the shell in cut-off T100 silicone tip + about 3mm of tubing.

Parts were about US $35 + delivery + agent fees, the only complaint I have is slight details congestion on louder sections.

Here's BOM with links if anyone is keen, actually the price may be around $40, I don't have tubing mentioned in the original post in my pair anymore.
https://pastebin.com/UKxcKt3e

 

[tarhana]

hi guys,

i'm currently experimenting shell process and having problem with negative mold. i use pink dental wax for waxing and egger's dublicant for negative mold. the problem is egger is freezing at 50 celsius and wax melts around that degrees too. so when i pour colloid on impressions wax flake off and scatters around. me and my friend made a brainstorm and thought about using lak on waxed impressions. anyone tried that before? or another solutions?

 

[ForceMajeure]

hi guys,

i'm currently experimenting shell process and having problem with negative mold. i use pink dental wax for waxing and egger's dublicant for negative mold. the problem is egger is freezing at 50 celsius and wax melts around that degrees too. so when i pour colloid on impressions wax flake off and scatters around. me and my friend made a brainstorm and thought about using lak on waxed impressions. anyone tried that before? or another solutions?

get another wax. there is a nice-fit red wax that is good for that purpose

 

[Jedrula1]

Just finished this pair. Four driver, three way crossover, just black opaque, but still looks stunning... i think

 

[Lucas Taboada]

Just finished this pair. Four driver, three way crossover, just black opaque, but still looks stunning... i think

Did you used the Castin' Craft Opaque Liquid Pigment from Resin Obsession? It looks beautiful!

 

[Jedrula1]

Did you used the Castin' Craft Opaque Liquid Pigment from Resin Obsession? It looks beautiful!

Unfortunately not. I don't know how to get black opaque with just curing, without painting. I have used black dye from resin obsessions, but it is hard to get black opaque and cure it. So what i did, is to get the darkest possible smoke transparent colour, cure it to get a proper shell thickness, and then, after all assembly, faceplate and so on, cover it using spray gun with a thin layer of black paint. Then, after drying, cover everything with Lack 3. Effect is very good, i hope

 

[Kiina]

I've been searching and reading a lot and my goal would be to make some really great face plates. With like printed text or images (in color would be awesome) or maybe with clock parts. The left one as an example what I would want to achieve: https://twitter.com/64audio/status/934586028593102848

Anyone has advice on this? I heard I would need an UV plotter for this, maybe there is another way or someone with experience in this?

 

[ForceMajeure]

I've been searching and reading a lot and my goal would be to make some really great face plates. With like printed text or images (in color would be awesome) or maybe with clock parts. The left one as an example what I would want to achieve: https://twitter.com/64audio/status/934586028593102848

Anyone has advice on this? I heard I would need an UV plotter for this, maybe there is another way or someone with experience in this?

The big guys have very expensive UV printers that are capable of printing white base on acrylic and on top of it other colors with rather good resolution but even then most prints don't look that good IMO.
The simpler the design with less color gradients the better it looks usually

Another option would be to use high quality decals. if done properly you could achieve almost the same result if not the same as you could place it on top the FP and add a layer of resin on top of it then sand it and lacquer
You could probably order some custom made decals, it would end up much cheaper than buying a UV printer.

 

[FlyinUte]

Jedrula1, how do those feel in your ears? That's a really deep canal, most people don't go past the 2nd bend.

 

[Kiina]

The big guys have very expensive UV printers that are capable of printing white base on acrylic and on top of it other colors with rather good resolution but even then most prints don't look that good IMO.
The simpler the design with less color gradients the better it looks usually

Just out of curiosity do you know which printers would be capable of that and get a decent result? Probably out of the price range for such projects but would be interesting to see

 

[Jedrula1]

Jedrula1, how do those feel in your ears? That's a really deep canal, most people don't go past the 2nd bend.

This is not a pair for me. Probably you have not 100% correct information - the sound bores should pass the second bend. This impressions and ear canal shape was a little bit unusual, really long, curved and tight.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Just out of curiosity do you know which printers would be capable of that and get a decent result? Probably out of the price range for such projects but would be interesting to see

Look for flatbed uv printers. I remember the Roland Versa UV LEF series f.e, but those are printers that cost from 10k usd to 50k usd.

 

[Jedrula1]

What do you think, guys ? Four driver three way setup.