[Einencool]

Hi, this time i want so show you my last build, because I‘ve learned so much from you, so I want to show, what I was able to make with all the feedback. The Feedback also goes to a German suplier for the Dreve fotoplast and very good tips

This is a GK Build with a gray damper and with graved initials

Greets
Chris

 

[MuZo2]

This should be nice curing chamber for us.

 

[Portofly]

CRUD!!! I JUST REALIZED THAT I MAY HAVE WIRED MY GV'S INCORRECTLY. I wired them left and right bottom solder pads if the TWFK is on the top of the HODVTEC. When I put them in my ears, I thought I was getting full sound, but it looks like the TWFK is supposed to be on the left. Did I goof up the build, or did I accidentally do it the right way?
I'd hate to have to open them up. It was the first pretty pair I've finished.

 

[Im1fan2nv]

CRUD!!! I JUST REALIZED THAT I MAY HAVE WIRED MY GV'S INCORRECTLY. I wired them left and right bottom solder pads if the TWFK is on the top of the HODVTEC. When I put them in my ears, I thought I was getting full sound, but it looks like the TWFK is supposed to be on the left. Did I goof up the build, or did I accidentally do it the right way?
I'd hate to have to open them up. It was the first pretty pair I've finished.

It should be fine, the TWFK's are wired to the top 2 pads. the 4 tabs on the HODVTEC are crisscrossed so the positive would be bottom left and negative would be the bottom right. They call out the side 2 pads for + and - because they are pads only and are not internally connected. Therefore, there is less chance of damaging the inside solder joints of the HODVTEC. The top 2 pads of the HODVTEC are left-negative and right-positive. You can see the crisscross on the data sheet, it looks like an X between the 4 HODVTEC pads.

Hope this eases your mind some. But if you think something is wired wrong, I'm guessing the sound isn't that great and one of the tubes may have a leak or the end of the output port is not completely sealed or something else. You might be able to check the DC resistance and see if you have the correct DC measurement.

 

[Portofly]

It should be fine, the TWFK's are wired to the top 2 pads. the 4 tabs on the HODVTEC are crisscrossed so the positive would be bottom left and negative would be the bottom right. They call out the side 2 pads for + and - because they are pads only and are not internally connected. Therefore, there is less chance of damaging the inside solder joints of the HODVTEC. The top 2 pads of the HODVTEC are left-negative and right-positive. You can see the crisscross on the data sheet, it looks like an X between the 4 HODVTEC pads.

Hope this eases your mind some. But if you think something is wired wrong, I'm guessing the sound isn't that great and one of the tubes may have a leak or the end of the output port is not completely sealed or something else. You might be able to check the DC resistance and see if you have the correct DC measurement.

I Don't think there would be any issues. when I shoved them in my ears (the best I could since they are someone elses) they sounded spectacular. after posting I pulled the PDF back up and tentatively came to that conclusion, but it brings immense comfort to hear someone confirm it. Thanks!

 

[Portofly]

these are the first two pairs that I've finished. Enormous thank you to everyone who has contributed to this thread for the last few years and have given such an immense amount of learning (and reading).

 

[NoForMe]

All of the hard work you guys put in will pay off!!
Some recent ones I have done.

How did you get the solid color?

 

[NoForMe]

Hi, this time i want so show you my last build, because I‘ve learned so much from you, so I want to show, what I was able to make with all the feedback. The Feedback also goes to a German suplier for the Dreve fotoplast and very good tips

This is a GK Build with a gray damper and with graved initials

Greets
Chris

How did you get the solid white.

 

[NoForMe]

Guys I got a new toy!!! One of my local dentist closed his doors and he gave me 2 of these!!!

 

[Andrumgt]

Guys I got a new toy!!! One of my local dentist closed his doors and he gave me 2 of these!!!

Great!!!they are almost useless, probably in the 500nm or even higher wavelength.

 

[NoForMe]

Great!!!they are almost useless, probably in the 500nm or even higher wavelength.

Might want to research a little more. This thing works great

 

[ForceMajeure]

Guys I got a new toy!!! One of my local dentist closed his doors and he gave me 2 of these!!!

These are good. it's gonna take your builds to the next level
Although the wavelength range is not optimal for curing it gets the job done. good for faceplate, decorations and securing stuff. the output power is significant enough to cure egger and dreve fast. even opaque colors. of course it should be used at a close range.
I don't know about the specific one you have here. but usually those are good (~420-480nm). if you feel adventurous you could buy a 3w or 5w 365nm led and replace it with the one inside. you have to make sure the battery is supplying the correct voltage and current though.

 

[Andrumgt]

Trust me, go ahead and replace the led inside, with one of a different wavelength.You will avoid all of the cursing when your resin will turn yellowish.
It’s a couple of bucks mod.

 

[NoForMe]

Trust me, go ahead and replace the led inside, with one of a different wavelength.You will avoid all of the cursing when your resin will turn yellowish.
It’s a couple of bucks mod.

Shoot me a link

 

[NoForMe]

Has anyone figured out an better way for faceplates?